All speculation, but I suppose that the Seafoam might contribute to lower oil pressure. It is about 95% mineral spirits (paint thinner) and alcohol blend, so it will thin the oil quite a bit. It could also be your sensors going bad.

I would be inclined to try one of the high mileage oils. They tend to be a bit on the heavier side of their viscosity rating and might have additives to clean ring and valves seals, etc.. I assume you have changed your pcv valve, which can increase oil consumption if bad.

 

All speculation, but I suppose that the Seafoam might contribute to lower oil pressure. It is about 95% mineral spirits (paint thinner) and alcohol blend, so it will thin the oil quite a bit. It could also be your sensors going bad.

I would be inclined to try one of the high mileage oils. They tend to be a bit on the heavier side of their viscosity rating and might have additives to clean ring and valves seals, etc.. I assume you have changed your pcv valve, which can increase oil consumption if bad.

Yes PVC is new but not OEM, I accidently broke it when I was on top of my engine reaching the CPS sensor. However the little rubber hose is cracked and I taped it, but that wouldnt clog it.
Im thinking thin oil may be the issue, Ill get it changed tomorrow and see what happens!

 

Highly recommend using high mileage motor oil on any engine with over 100K miles. As Treegrower said, the HM oils tend to be a bit thicker viscosity, plus they contain additives formulated to help prevent/lessen oil leaks due to aged seals & gaskets. You don't have to spend a fortune for it either. Wally World (and others) have their own line of full synthetic or regular dino HM oils at very reasonable prices that meet most manufacturers specs. The HM oils also resist burn off better in older engines, so hopefully you'll go through less between oil changes. If you use a better quality oil, and change it at least every 5 or 6K miles at the most, you shouldn't have to ever use aftermarket additives.

About the only additive I use maybe once every year or 2 is a bottle of Chevron Techron into the gas tank. It is about the most potent and only gasoline additive a DIY mechanic can buy, outside of doing a professional fuel system cleaning. Even then, if you use Tier 1 gas from a reputable station, you may not even need to add as often. Those that make a steady diet of the cheapo gas that's not Tier 1 approved (Google it for a list) invite trouble, especially with many of the Direct Injection engines on the market today.

 

Well bad news. Wife drove it home and after it warms up it gets a low oil pressure light at idle. It turns off and on at a light, sometimes multiple times quickly. Oil level is fine. All I can do is replace the pressure unit.

Any vids on replacing a oil pump? Can that be done with engine in?

 

replaced oil sensor, problem resolved. it got worse and worse and I assumed if oil pressure low I would hear clacking from the valves. So took a chance and kept driving it and eventually the light was nearly all the time, but flickered.

Took me about 3 hours mainly because I had to find tools. 27mm deep 6 point is needed.