make sure your spark plug is in working order, (tight) then pull the dip stick, check for filings. also i s it cold where you live? could be cold start up,or worst rare case senario, the timing chain stretched/

 

Did it do it for a short time and go away, or is it a steady knock? The lifters on a World Engine are solid bucket type, so it wouldn't be them making noise. Sometimes on a cold start up, after all of the engine oil has drained back into the pan, it can take a little bit for the hydraulic timing chain tensioner to pump up. This can cause the chain to rattle a bit.

 

I can only offer a HOLY CRAP!

Well, that and my genuine concern if it's something really bad.

 

Did you check your oil level? That would have been the first thing I would check before driving it.

 

When is the valve adjustment due.(maintence)

 

Again, the World Engine has bucket lifters. They are solid. The cam lobe pushes down directly on the bucket lifter, which in turn depresses the valve. There is nothing to adjust, and no maintenance interval.

 

You are mostly correct.

Over time the solid lifters will wear slightly and then they will need to be either shimmed, or replaced, to prevent slop. This shouldn't need to be done for well over the 150,000 mile mark tho.

 

Mine sounds a little loose on a cold morning (and I only have 11k miles on it). It quiets down once it starts to get some heat into it. I just let it idle for a few seconds then start driving it easy. Warms up quick (within just a few blocks the noises go away and I start to feel some heat out of the vents). I had heard that a lot of modern engines use a short skirt piston to reduce engine drag and help improve emissions, but the side effect is a slightly noisier engine when it's cold.

One other thing, if you just recently had the oil changed at a lube shop, change out the oil filter they put on and put your own name brand one on (Puralator, Wix, Mopar). When I worked at a machine shop, we had it written into our warranty that any engines that used a "Group 7" brand filter was void (all the local lube shops used them as they got them for $.50-$1.00 each). We had proven it multiple times that those filters drop oil pressure by tens of pounds. We had a Nissan 300zx lose 25 psi of pressure from the crap oil filter and at idle, would flicker the oil light (which means it was close to 6 psi at idle). Installed a NAPA Wix gold oil filter and full pressure returned (30+ psi at idle).

 

With 5-20 I have a slight tick when starting up and while it idles. I assumed it was the nature of the engine. I have heard the engine chatter a smidge cruising at 2500k after letting it warm up for a minute or so and then driving. If I continued to accelerate it didn't make a noise but letting it stay at 2500k on the tach it will make a small chattering noise. Using 5-30w greatly reduced or even stopped that noise when starting it up in the morning. All my cars I have used 10-30w Mobil 1 synthetic even in winter and never had a problem. I hesitate to use it considering the hand books recommendation. Would 10-30w be a bad idea for this engine? Also does this engine sound like a quiet diesel when its cold? no vibration just a diesel like sound in the detonation? (hard to explain but has a hint of a 1980s Peugeot 505 turbo diesel) I would say its not even noticable but something about it pulled memorys from my childhood.

 

Using 5-30w greatly reduced or even stopped that noise when starting it up in the morning. All my cars I have used 10-30w Mobil 1 synthetic even in winter and never had a problem. I hesitate to use it considering the hand books recommendation. Would 10-30w be a bad idea for this engine?

Yes, that is a bad idea. The VVT works hydraulically, and needs 5W20 to work properly.

 

Actually, the board already has confirmation from Chrysler (some old post has a scanned letter/picture) that 5w30 is acceptable and won't void the warranty. Remember, the 5 is the cold viscosity and the 20 or 30 is it's protection capability. They use 5w20 from the factory because it somehow helps lower emissions. I run 5w30 in mine (mostly because my autoparts stores don't stock cases of 5w20). Both oils have the same cold flow rating so there won't be any difference.

 

Good to know why not to stray from the formula. (quite possibly that going to full synthetic mobil one made the difference during startup) 5w20 it is.
:smiley_thumbs_up:

Curiosity. Has any one ever used mobil advanced fuel economy oil? http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-20.aspx

Idahopatriot21 might you take a look at the spec of the oil?

 

10w 30 is not a good choice i use 5w 30 just as someone said they only had it and motor ran like a dream. i wanted to see how 5w 20 would be like but i guess that the lighter oil is making the sound im chaging it at 2000 more clicks. mobile 1 has asways lasted up to max 13000 clicks but i would not recomend going that high so i do mine 10000 or 9 to be safe.