Hi There,

Might be the wastegate actuator being held open for some reason. Does the car build boost at all? Is the spooling cabin noise louder than before the problem?

I am in the Sydney area and can have a quick look if you like.

Darin

 

check the turbo pipework - there are cases where the zip-ties that secure the pipes have broken, causing massive power problems

massive power problems, but very easily and cheaply fixed - a new steel zip tie does the trick - fingers crossed that's all it is !

 

Will do guys and we are from Melbourne and I wished you guys were much closer.
When you say the pipes which ones are you referring. I do know a little about cars but I am not a guru.
And with the spooling its a little louder and and still picks up speed eventually.
We haven't driven the car for the past two days cause scared of causing more damage.

 

I agree with Harold. Check those pipes, especially if you're hearing induction roar.

This is an extract from TDI club. http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-8.html

- If the power loss is accompanied by an excessive amount of exhaust smoke, check all the pipes involved with the air intake system for leaks! A leak on the high-pressure side of the turbo compressor will cause this problem. On later models, the pipe from the turbo compressor outlet (bottom of turbo) to the intercooler is particularly vulnerable because the clamp is awkward to reach and difficult to install properly, so it's prone to blowing the pipe off the turbo. You'll have to remove some lower engine covers to see this pipe properly.

Good luck. Lets hope it's simple. Let us know how you get on.

 

PM member tiptronic - my memory is he knows a fair bit about the pipework !

 

Thanks for your replies.
Will check this issue tomorrow morning. I have located the turbo which is at the back of the engine and easily seen from underneath.
If someone can help me paint the picture on which pipes to check will be greatly appreciated.
Harry.

 

i assume the australian crd has also got the vw engine the same as the uk one? first thing to do is plug in a diagnostic machine and read any fault codes (fault codes will not always bring up the engine light) there are many reasons why the car drops into "limp mode" if after you turned it off and it drove alright after restarting then its unlikely to be a pipe off, it would drive badly all the time. the vw engine has a variable vane turbo and do suffer from seized vanes if not "cleared out" from time to time. have a look round some vw forums for clues as to what might be wrong, but plug it in first otherwise your just guessing

 

The funny thing is that I don't get an error signal or a check engine light.
Check pipes and hoses this morning and all looks ok.
There is one thing I have seen is the pipe or hose that runs from the turbo to induction or air filter has a light grease or oil residue on it at the turbo end.
Is this a problem ?

 

maybe - did you PM tiptronic?

did you read dane's link?

also read that a pipe might be split?

BE SAFE - but how about starting the car, get something that gives out smoke and see if any is drawn in or blown away from the turbo / pipework?

i reckon that greasy end might indicate a leak, but i really don't know much

 

Just noticed right now that I can slip that hose off with my hands. Is this normal ? Started the engine this morning and when driving up ramps seen a little smoke from exhaust.

 

the hose should be tight as and should be held on with a 'zip-tie' - i think they were originally fitted with a plastic one, but if you are replacing it get a metal one

while you're getting dirty....check all the ends, but i reckon you've found the problem !

 

Ok dam this is tricky, the hose has a metal clamp tie on it. Just to inform everyone it's the hose in the middle of the turbo that can slip off by wiggling it with my hands. Really no effort at all.
The problem I have is getting my hands in there and having enough lev ridge to tighten that metal clamp tight.
Do you guys think if the hose is on loose, will it give me that problem even being tightly fasten.
Harry

 

After a few hours inspecting and driving around to see for improvement, I believe I have narrowed it down and almost 100% certain of my outcome.
Yes the turbo hose was loose but not the major issue. I tighten it and not going anywhere anymore.
Through my observation the rubber hose going from the intercooler to the front of the engine have two splits in it. One about 4cm long and the other 2cm long.
I think this explains the surging or shuttering of power and the induction noise while under pressure.
Now my problem is to obtain one and not being stung on price through Jeep.
I will keep you informed on the next drive.

 

Sounds like you found it. If the melb jeep part is too much, try importing from Auckland cjd. For stuff I needed it worked out about 1/2 price. Can you post photos for future reference. Thanks

 

Or go to your local turbo specialist and seewhat they can do ?

 

Sounds to me like a dodgey injector. Book her in for a service & have someone at Jeep take a look at it ASAP.
I'm having a similar issue with my diesel at the moment. Alota smoke billowing when under throttle at high revs. No engine light, no omionious sounds or loss of power though. But spewing clear smoke.
Its either a leak, injector or filter needs replacing.

Unforatunetly i cant get into Jeep for a good week

 

Clear smoke ??? Isn't that air ?

 

Sorry I just picked up on this as I dont come in so often. I think harold has given all the best advice .The Only thing I can add ..if you have a local VW /Audi dealer , they may well be able to point you in the right direction . The 2 litre CRD being a well known VW unit . You did right , by looking for loose turbo pipe clips & splits .

Dont forget , if your CRD has a plastic engine cover , just give it a good tug up to remove it ..this will give you a lot more " work room "

 

First of all thanks to everyone that help me try to identify my wife's patriot problem. It certainly was the hose from the intercooler to the engine. Replace today and everything is back to normal.
Did my checks again with all hoses and pipes and everything looks in order.
The only place I can obtain the hose from was Jeep in Nunawading Victoria at $142.75 including GST. It was the last one in Victoria and then had to be ordered.
I will take a few pics for you guys to show you the damage hose.
Thanks again. Now to try and find the oil filter and sump LOL.

 

great result - glad we could help

not TOO expensive.....

re: oil filter and sump.....i assume you're kidding

 

can you type in the part no as well?
i'm sure it will be useful for people with 2.0 crd

 

Sorry for my delay, I have taken a few pics of the intake hose causing all the trouble.
Part number is 04891705AB purchased mine for $142.72 including GST.

 

Loss of power CRD in Australia number 2

Hi,

We experienced the loss of power which happened all the time, it turned out to be a split pipe.

It has happened again, this time there is no acceleration at all, just crawling along. To reset it, all that has to be done is pull over, turn the car off and it is fine for a while longer. No pipes are loose or torn this time!

The problem is becoming more frequent now, I am leaning towards and electrical fault as mechanical faults seem to be a more hard fault, i.e a consistent fault, I read further up that the turbo is variable vane, is this electronically controlled or just from the wastegate, and does the car computer hold onto all codes set by the car? No engine check lights have appeared for any of the times of loss of power.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

 

jeep patriot 2.0 diesel loss of power

i brought a 2008 68000 mile jeep patriot 3 days ago driving it home I got up to 80mph and then the vehicle lost all power it would still pull but very slowly, turned it off and started it up again and it was fine until again I hit 75/80 mph the power cut out once again, turned it off started up again and nursed it home got my local garage to plug it in turns out it was over boosting looking like seized actuator does this mean new turbo or replacement actuator?
any help would be much appreciated also drivers heated seat when I turn it on the light comes on and 5 seconds it goes straight off any ideas? Im need the the jeep scene....

thanks.

 

i brought a 2008 68000 mile jeep patriot 3 days ago driving it home I got up to 80mph and then the vehicle lost all power it would still pull but very slowly, turned it off and started it up again and it was fine until again I hit 75/80 mph the power cut out once again, turned it off started up again and nursed it home got my local garage to plug it in turns out it was over boosting looking like seized actuator does this mean new turbo or replacement actuator?
any help would be much appreciated also drivers heated seat when I turn it on the light comes on and 5 seconds it goes straight off any ideas? Im need the the jeep scene....

thanks.

Hey PATRRIOTBEAMER,

I am sorry to hear about your recent experience with your Patriot. Did you have any CEL/MIL lights illuminated or any stored DTCs?

 

hi ryan,
na got no warning lights come up on dash?

 

Jeep and it's dealers neither give a crap or know anything about this engine and, if you listen to a dealer, they will take a lot of your money by going through a parts replacement bonanza. Jeep's diagnostic software is crap and does not show half of what you could get from VAGCom if it were in a VW.

Not worth repairing a turbo. A remanufactured one is cheap and comes with a warranty. The labor costs in taking a turbo off and attempting a repair will be more than a replacement. If you are in the UK, you can get a reman from Turbo Solutions in Durham cheap with a 2 year warranty.

If the oil has been changed at the correct intervals (and the correct oil used) and levels not allowed to drop, then look at vacuum, boost sensor and pipes before replacing a turbo. The turbo on these VW engines does not have a conventional N75 valve and the vacuum for the engine is controlled from a multimode solenoid (just like a MK5 Golf) that (unlike the one on a Golf which is on the bulkhead) is located beside the radiator.