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Engine Oil Problem

7K views 20 replies 16 participants last post by  Wooden Dog  
#1 ·
This was addressed before and I never saw it resolved: I changed oil yesterday and put in 4.5 quarts per the owner's manual (all engines). I used a Wix 57073 (per their website) which is the same as a Napa Gold 7073 oil filter. I drove a short trip of 5 miles and came home and checked the oil the next morning and it shows 1/2 quart low. This means the manual is wrong and should be 5 quarts. Has anyone's manual been corrected? What happens at a oil change to your Pat at a oil change franchise like Jiffy Lube? Are their records/computer wrong too?
 
#9 ·
The answer is it varies:

  • If you have the FDII or an FDI with the engine oil cooler you will use more oil
  • The oil should always be checked WARM, 5 minutes after the engine has been used for a while is best
  • Many have moved to 5w-30 vs 5w-20 there are no warranty issues doing this and may obtain better engine protection
  • I have generally found 4.7 L is required (best to start with 4 L and add from there after checking the dipstick

See: http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7231


Below are the official capacities for all fluids. Admittedly it is a bit missleading, however directly from the Service Manual:

Fuel Tank
51L (13.5 gal.)

Engine Oil - 2.0L Diesel
With out BSM 4.0L (4.2 qts.)
With BSM 4.3L (4.5 qts.)

Engine Oil - 1.8L,2.0L, 2.4L
4.3L (4.5 qts.)

Cooling System - 1.8L, 2.0L, and 2.4L
6.8L (7.2 qts.)

Cooling System - 2.0L Diesel
8.5L (8.0 qts.)

A/C Refrigerant System
0.51 kg (1.125 lbs.)

Automatic Transaxle - Estimated Service Fill
3.8L (4.0 qts.)

Automatic Transaxle - Overhaul Fill Capacity with Torque Converter Empty
8.1L (8.6 qts.)

Power Transfer Unit - (PTU)
540ml (1.1 pts)

Rear Drive Assembly - (RDA)
500ml (1 - 1.1pts)

Manual Transaxle - NV T355
2.4 - 2.7L (2.5 - 2.8 qts.)

Manual Transaxle - BG6
2.0L (2.1 qts.)
 
#8 ·
Temp has a big effect on that. Not just the temp when you're measuring it, but the engine temp when you're changing the oil. If the oil hasn't had a chance to all drain into the pan, when you change it, you probably will miss 1/2 qt of it.


BTW: For what it's worth, I use 5-20 synth, and it fills up (changed cold, measured hot) with just about 4.5 every time.
 
#12 ·
Depends on how much drains out of the cooler when the filter is removed, back drains through the pump, or weeps out of the oil galleys through the bearing clearance and such.

Most people don't leave the drain plug out for very long (it takes a long time before it stops dripping) so you'll always leave some unknown amount of old oil in the engine. a 1/4 pt. here, a 1/2 pt. there. Just add 4 qts., run the engine looking for leaks for a few minutes, then top it off 5 minutes later to the full mark.
 
#14 ·
Every engine is just a bit different. I've had several vehicles that specify 4.5qts of oil. Some are happy with a bit over 4, some want the full 4.5, some occasionally a touch more than that. Stated capacity is close to the actual, but never exact.

When I change oil, I usually fill to about 1/2 below the stated capacity (4qt in this case), then take the vehicle off the ramps and onto a level surface, then I finish topping off as needed.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I usually bring my own oil and filter to Valvoline to do the changes (because there is NO local oil disposal in our area, and none of the oil lube or auto parts shops are required to take it), I brought 5 quarts and they put them all in. They never mentioned anything about it, so I assumed that it was a mis-print in the manual (like that never happens) and that it should say "4.5 quarts without filter, 5 quarts with filter). The Valvoline system said 5 quarts. Heck, my Ford Freestyle takes 6 quarts and I have to use either semi or full synthetic 5W-20. So I buy the semi-synthetic Valvoline 5W-20 by the case (watch for sales or Wal-Mart) and use it in both. It also comes in 5 quart jugs for a little less, but call me old-fashioned because I prefer the traditional 1 quart containers because they are easier to store and handle. I order all my filters from Amazon.com. Since I have 4 cars, I order several at a time for each since Amazon has no shipping for orders over $25, no sales tax charged and the best prices anywhere. I have been using K&N air and WIX or K&N oil filters on all my vehicles. Amazon.com carries both.

K&N Air filter: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2362

K&N Oil filter: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1017
 
#16 ·
This is good advice, only catch is once you put in 4L, you should drive it a bit as you always need to measure/fill when the engine is warm. (or roughly 5 minutes after)

4 - 4.3L will at least put you to the lower mid point so no need to worry about being too low. On my last fill I used close to 5L (4x4 FDI with engine oil cooler).


QUOTE=Akula;183261]Every engine is just a bit different. I've had several vehicles that specify 4.5qts of oil. Some are happy with a bit over 4, some want the full 4.5, some occasionally a touch more than that. Stated capacity is close to the actual, but never exact.

When I change oil, I usually fill to about 1/2 below the stated capacity (4qt in this case), then take the vehicle off the ramps and onto a level surface, then I finish topping off as needed.[/QUOTE]
 
#18 ·
Good opinions all! Thanks.

I changed mine today for the first time. Right at 2875 miles. Oil was dark brown. It took right at 5 US quarts to fill it up (with filter change). That put the mark just slightly below the MAX mark on the dipstick. Oh yeah, 5-20w used.
 
#19 ·
I agree that there will always be variables depending on how warm the engine is, how long you let the oil drain, etc. I usually fill it about 1/2 quart less than the recommended amount then back it off the ramps, run it a few minutes, shut down & recheck the dipstick. Then top it off. Seems to work for me.
I like the idea of using 5W-30 in the summer & 5W-20 for the winter. 5-20 seems a little "lame" for summer temps and driving.
 
#20 ·
Just a little input from a mechanic working in every climate you can imagine. The posted viscosity the manufacture places on vehicles does not take into consideration climates of where the vehicle will be. The posted oil recommendation is for "general use" with regard to the engine. You should always change your oil filter with every oil change, grudge accumulates inside the oil filter, without change it will seep into the bottom of your oil pan causing much more damage later. If you live in a colder environment you should consider talking with your local dealership or take the route of using synthetic...contrary to popular belief synthetic does increase gas mileage. Warmer environments are perfectly fine using the recommended oil. Play it safe at all times, failure to do so and have it DOCUMENTED is where the dealership (HAS) to refuse doing work because of warranty fine print. It's worth it...trust me!