Picked up my 4x4 May 3. Changed oil at 1000. Told mechanic to use 5w20 as it says on the cap, OK. Went back again today at 2400 to change. Took a phone call right when i got there and by the time i was done with my call 5-7 min. my car was done. I asked what grade oil they used and they said 5w30. When i said that was wrong they informed me that they went by what they used last time.:doh: Which means i've been driving for 1400 miles with 5w30:doh:. Does it really matter?. I would like to know what others are using. Thanks.
rudysjeep
Manufacturers have switched to the thinner viscosity oil to reduce internal friction, improve gas mileage, and decrease emissions. The 5W30 oil will not harm the motor, it is just a little higher viscosity than recommended.
Fortunately, right now it is summer time, and the higher outside temps will keep the oil warmer and thinner, so no problem. Just be sure to get 5W20 next time.
Was this done at a Jeep dealership? Or a quick change shop, or your personal mechanic?
And, I really just recommend you follow the service intervals in the owner's manual. I imagine the "old" [barely used] oil came out as honey brown clean as the new stuff going in!
Fortunately, right now it is summer time, and the higher outside temps will keep the oil warmer and thinner, so no problem. Just be sure to get 5W20 next time.
Was this done at a Jeep dealership? Or a quick change shop, or your personal mechanic?
And, I really just recommend you follow the service intervals in the owner's manual. I imagine the "old" [barely used] oil came out as honey brown clean as the new stuff going in!
20w50!?!?!?!?
Geez! Please tell me you live some place warm where it never drops below 32F. Viscosity is a real issue. You can do real damage to an engine if the oil is too thick. The oil pump is the first issue. It's job is to pump oil up the head and lube the valves and cam bearings. If you can't get enough volume up there, or it isn't thin enough to penetrate the races of the bearings, you are going to need a valve job in less than 50K.
the other issue is lubing the cylinders and crankshaft. That relies on oil spatter. If the spinning of the crank can't fling enough oil around onto the cylinder walls, sooner rather than later you are going to get a host of problems including scoring, stuck rings and failed wrist pins/bearings. The same is true for other bearings, it HAS to be able to penetrate the races at an acceptable rate, or they're going to fail too.
If you don't trust conventional oil to hold it's viscosity, then use full synthetic. Change the filter every 3000, but change the oil every 6000. From what I understand, full synthetics hold their viscosity almost to their flashpoint so thinning from heat is not an issue. If the oil gets that hot, you've got bigger problems.
By the way, if your dealer finds out he will most likely void your warranty on the spot.
Geez! Please tell me you live some place warm where it never drops below 32F. Viscosity is a real issue. You can do real damage to an engine if the oil is too thick. The oil pump is the first issue. It's job is to pump oil up the head and lube the valves and cam bearings. If you can't get enough volume up there, or it isn't thin enough to penetrate the races of the bearings, you are going to need a valve job in less than 50K.
the other issue is lubing the cylinders and crankshaft. That relies on oil spatter. If the spinning of the crank can't fling enough oil around onto the cylinder walls, sooner rather than later you are going to get a host of problems including scoring, stuck rings and failed wrist pins/bearings. The same is true for other bearings, it HAS to be able to penetrate the races at an acceptable rate, or they're going to fail too.
If you don't trust conventional oil to hold it's viscosity, then use full synthetic. Change the filter every 3000, but change the oil every 6000. From what I understand, full synthetics hold their viscosity almost to their flashpoint so thinning from heat is not an issue. If the oil gets that hot, you've got bigger problems.
By the way, if your dealer finds out he will most likely void your warranty on the spot.
5W-30 May be better....
Google 5w-20 and you will find some interesting answers as to why this grade of oil is used.
The main reason is fuel economy, not engine protection. 5w-30, especially the synthetic varieties will protect your engine slightly better if used over time.
Using 5w-20 is OK, and you will gain roughly 1-2% better fuel economy in light of the decreased viscosity/resistance of the oil.
Some say this benefits the large car companies as they can claim they are doing better towards their CAFE numbers (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) reported to the US Federal Government.
There may be a case either way. Very good question.....
Google 5w-20 and you will find some interesting answers as to why this grade of oil is used.
The main reason is fuel economy, not engine protection. 5w-30, especially the synthetic varieties will protect your engine slightly better if used over time.
Using 5w-20 is OK, and you will gain roughly 1-2% better fuel economy in light of the decreased viscosity/resistance of the oil.
Some say this benefits the large car companies as they can claim they are doing better towards their CAFE numbers (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) reported to the US Federal Government.
There may be a case either way. Very good question.....
Synthetic..
A good oil filter can last 7000+ miles. I have been using Synthetic and changing every 7000 miles on my Wrangler from day 1, and now have 120,000 miles. It runs as nice as the day I bought it with 0.1 miles.
For 5W20 and the Patriot, I think I might change it every 5000 miles. I'm concerned that it may break down sooner because its thinner and the Patriot engine is higher revving.
A good oil filter can last 7000+ miles. I have been using Synthetic and changing every 7000 miles on my Wrangler from day 1, and now have 120,000 miles. It runs as nice as the day I bought it with 0.1 miles.
For 5W20 and the Patriot, I think I might change it every 5000 miles. I'm concerned that it may break down sooner because its thinner and the Patriot engine is higher revving.
Now that is a smart move. I really enjoy Wix or Amsoil filters. For OTC stuff though it's very easy to get the mobil1 filters that offer similar protection for a little bit of the price impact.
The 5w20 oil is not only used in the Jeep, it's used is practically every car built after 2006. Most car engines were designed to be used with the thinner oil thanks in part to tighter manufacturing tolerances and build standards. So using a thicker oil doesn't really add much, if any, benefit.
The 5w20 oil is not only used in the Jeep, it's used is practically every car built after 2006. Most car engines were designed to be used with the thinner oil thanks in part to tighter manufacturing tolerances and build standards. So using a thicker oil doesn't really add much, if any, benefit.
Synthetic
I agree that synthetics are far superior, especially in colder climates because they don't thicken in cold weather. An absolute "must" in cold weather diesels in my opinion.
I wouldn't worry about synthetics breaking down or going outside of their viscosity range. They are literally engineered at the molecular level.
I personally have been using the synthetic blend from Valvoline and have had no problems even in extreme temps and all my current vehicles are 112,000+ and at least 13 years old.
As far as filters go there are only about 4 manufacturers. All the rest OEM from this group including Mopar, AC-Delco and Ford. Purelator consistantly tops the list for internal design and effectiveness.
Whatever you do though, don't buy Fram oil filters. They consistantly top the list for defects. Theres a lot on the subject accross the internet.
I agree that synthetics are far superior, especially in colder climates because they don't thicken in cold weather. An absolute "must" in cold weather diesels in my opinion.
I wouldn't worry about synthetics breaking down or going outside of their viscosity range. They are literally engineered at the molecular level.
I personally have been using the synthetic blend from Valvoline and have had no problems even in extreme temps and all my current vehicles are 112,000+ and at least 13 years old.
As far as filters go there are only about 4 manufacturers. All the rest OEM from this group including Mopar, AC-Delco and Ford. Purelator consistantly tops the list for internal design and effectiveness.
Whatever you do though, don't buy Fram oil filters. They consistantly top the list for defects. Theres a lot on the subject accross the internet.
The Service Manager told me(out of the blue while discussing the TSB they applied) that he put 5w-20 in during the oil change and that that is the only kind you should use because World Engine blah..blah..blah.. and you could float a valve and break your motor. I guess I'll be putting 5w-20 in if I ever change my own oil....
LOL :banana: Only an American would consider themselves the center of the universe wherever they are. Just kidding..
I suspect this has to do more with CAFE standards in the US than higher speed limits in the rest of the world.
I'd just like to know if 5w-30 affords better protection in the long run (i.e. longer engine life), and if my rights as a consumer were sacrificed for DCX's
advantage (cafe)-
Another interesting difference between the US and THE REST OF THE WORLD
are the recommended service intervals. I have read German auto blogs making fun of our 3K or even 6K recommendations vs. their routine 10-20k (using fully synthetic, off course). Is the US oil lobby part of this or am I being characteristically paranoid?
I suspect this has to do more with CAFE standards in the US than higher speed limits in the rest of the world.
I'd just like to know if 5w-30 affords better protection in the long run (i.e. longer engine life), and if my rights as a consumer were sacrificed for DCX's
advantage (cafe)-
Another interesting difference between the US and THE REST OF THE WORLD
are the recommended service intervals. I have read German auto blogs making fun of our 3K or even 6K recommendations vs. their routine 10-20k (using fully synthetic, off course). Is the US oil lobby part of this or am I being characteristically paranoid?
Ya'll should check out http://www.BobistheOilguy.com . Probably one of the best sources for lubrication information. Doing an Oil Analysis once your engine has gone past break in is a good idea to see your oil condition and wera metals.
If you need info on great oils to run...just post and wait for some informed answers. Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with AMSOIL Oil/Oil Filter and Air Filter. http://www.Amsoil.com
Seems like the (XLM) XL 5W-20 or (TSO) Series 2000 0W-30 would be great choices for the Patriot "World Motor"
Series 2000 0W-30 specs http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tso.aspx (TBN is higher...which means it will neutralize acids for a longer time and greater quantity-can hardly go wrong with this oil)
XL 5W-20 specs http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
Info: Wix 57073 is Oil Filter...Wix 49192 is Air Filter
If you need info on great oils to run...just post and wait for some informed answers. Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with AMSOIL Oil/Oil Filter and Air Filter. http://www.Amsoil.com
Seems like the (XLM) XL 5W-20 or (TSO) Series 2000 0W-30 would be great choices for the Patriot "World Motor"
Series 2000 0W-30 specs http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tso.aspx (TBN is higher...which means it will neutralize acids for a longer time and greater quantity-can hardly go wrong with this oil)
XL 5W-20 specs http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlm.aspx
Info: Wix 57073 is Oil Filter...Wix 49192 is Air Filter
The Amsoil site lists three oils...The two I suggested and another 5W-30. There is nothing wrong with the 5W-30 and it would actually be better is hotter climates and give better overall protection IMHO. The Series 2000 oil is great stuff.
Chrysler, along with most US companies< are trying to hit CAFE mpg estimates so they list a "thin" oil and hope for higher mpg results.
Chrysler, along with most US companies< are trying to hit CAFE mpg estimates so they list a "thin" oil and hope for higher mpg results.
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