Sounds like it is the same wire as my factory tow package. I would double check that the fuse for the trailer wiring is also correct.

 

This is like you are in the middle of a thread. Where is this grommet, and what are you going to use the wire for?

 

I tried to make some additions to the first post.
hopefully it makes it easier for some having issues

 

nice... if I have that wire I now have an option for my 12v power source I was going to add to the cargo area.

You say constant 12v.... Can you clarify a bit more. Is that constant with ignition switch on or off?

 

constant means just that.
It never goes away.
Keep in mind that I did the cig lighter wire movement in the plug under the hood.
My cig lighter have a constant 12v now instead of the ignition 12v
So I am unsure if this wire was effected as well, but I don't think it was.

 

Opened up my '08 to see if the connector was there. It was, so I did a little digging to determine what it is.

From the '07 ground/splice file:
This is the driver side rear wiring. The connectors of interest are the 4 at the top left of the picture.

The '07s had 3 lamps (stop, turn, backup). The '08s have only 2 lamps(stop-turn, backup). Both appear to have the "hidden" connector behind the rubber grommet (which DrugRunnR found on his and I found on my as well). It is labeled as connector-trailer tow in the picture.
It has a single red with violet stripe wire on the connector.
*Searching through the Module - Totally Integrated Power C6 you find: circuit A100 18RD/VT FUSED B(+)
*Searching for C323 (Trailer Tow) - (Body Side) 2 Way you see that this connector and circuit are intended for fused battery power to trailer wiring.

*Mopar Connectors from the "Wiring Repair" page in the mk parts pdf.

It looks like that wire is intended for exactly what you used it for DrugRunR.
This means that there is no need to run a wire to the battery for an aftermarket wiring harness. Connecting the power to this wire should be safe (as far as I can tell).

P.S. Damn those jerks who decided to use those stupid push pins. Yes, they go in easy but they are a pain to get out without mutilating them.

 

It looks to me like the wiring harness included with the factory tow package will work on any Patriot.

 

As long as the years match due to the connector qty difference (from 3 - '07 down to 2 - '08)

 

This would be great for installing an inverter in the back of the Pat. You could hid is behind some interior panels, and mount the socket in the rear cargo area. Always had a need for a plug in the back, now I know where to hook it up to. Thanks!

I might have to mess around with this wire and short it out to see which fuse it uses. If it is like Joe said for the trailer harness, it might be easier to find the trailer harness fuse and pull if and throw a meter on it.

 

I might have to mess around with this wire and short it out to see which fuse it uses. If it is like Joe said for the trailer harness, it might be easier to find the trailer harness fuse and pull if and throw a meter on it.

Not sure if this is a direct relation because I have not actually looked at the fuse box but it appears to be #5.

See this link and look at CAV 5, circuit A100 18RD/VT, function FUSED B(+)


Looking at the other ground/splice diagrams, and cross referencing with the connectors site there might be a whole bunch of connectors in every Patriot/Compass that are laying "dormant" because the feature was not installed but the wiring is because the connector is performing multiple processes. I might just have to start connector hunting for the fun of it.

 

What aftermarket trailer wiring harness are you guys installing? I need to install one on my wife's Patriot.

I've seen the Draew-Tite / Hidden hitch 118426 and 118446 listed is different locaitons, but not sure which one to use on a 2008. Also some pictures show the box and wires to splice/connect, a few show the T-Connector style.

 

current production 2008 = 118446

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7642

 

I added more pictures to the first post.
You don't need a lift any more to install the wiring and hitch.
It can all be done with just 2 car ramps .

 

I installed the Jeep Patriot original equipment Hitch and wiring. The hitch Is up tight to the vehicle and the wiring harness takes a little time to thread up over the rear drive sub frame but works very well. The biggie for me, it is designed to work with the system, not just an add on. I bought mine through my local dealer and because I purchased the Jeep from him he gave me a break on the price. There are several factory dealers on line that give discounts also. The cutout on the lower edge of the bumper cover is minimal and does not show that much. I used some left cut tin snips to remove the piece. Pictures are in process hope to post soon.

 

Can anyone explain to me what is the reason for an "always Hot" wire to a trailer tow? I shall use it for the same purpose as Makrinos ,and install a cargo space ,power outlet. It is not used with the factory wiring harness ,supplied for the tow package.

 

you only need a constant hot for a 7 pin harness see link has diagrams for most styles of connector

http://www.etrailer.com/faq_wiring.aspx

 

"you only need a constant hot for a 7 pin harness see link has diagrams for most styles of connector"

This is not always true. If you have a late '90s model Jayco pop-up, the six wire "block style" connector has an always hot wire for maintaining the charge on the battery or powering the (if equipped) three way refrigerator. If the trailer you are towing has a house loads battery (or in some states, a breakaway trailer brake battery) then you will need an always hot connection.

 

Wow.. Really nice.

 

Not to bring a dead thread back up but I had some additions...
Sorry I have been away for a while..

You want to hook the 12v lead to a always hot connection.
Example - You pull off on the side of the road (car breaks down, ect). You put your flashers on. If the 12v lead is hooked to a switched power source then your trailer will not have flashers if your car is off.
The connections to your tail lights power up relays that switch the 12v lead to the trailer lights.
So the trailer lights aren't powered off of your tail lights but off of the 12v lead source.

The main reason I brought this post up is that my aftermarket harness BROKE!!!!
I have only pulled a trailer 5 or 6 times since I installed the harness.
I went to pull a trailer yesterday and I had no lights.
I checked everything and it all pointed back to the little relay box in the harness.
Even if you don't use the trailer harness it still acts like you have a trailer hooked to it so the relays are constantly clicking every time you hit the brake or have the lights on, ect.

I did some checking and found one on ebay that was just ending for $20 shipped!! for a OEM harness.

There is another one on there for $25 plus shipping.

 

I just installed a 55050 Curt T-Connector wiring kit to my '07 Patriot using DrugRunR's instructions and photos. Using lots of patience so as not to damage the plastic rivets or mounting clips, the lens assemblies detached, attached the connectors, ran the wires, clipped the buttsplice on the power wire of the kit and attached it to the red/purple power using a splicer clip.

The photos were extremely helpful and I really appreciate the effort taken to post the details here.

Thanks DrugRunR!

 

Hey DrugRunR, thanks for this post, I just found it. I had been putting off installing the wiring for my hitch because I didn't want to crawl under the car and fish that wire all the way up to the battery! Why the heck don't the harness instructions tell us about this wire??? Thanks to the others who also posted diagrams and links.

If anyone is still readings this, I have one question, my trailer only uses the 4 prong connector and from what I am reading, this doesn't even need the hot wire, is that correct? Can I just leave it disconnected? Thanks!!!

 

Based on what I've read in this thread and the sticky thread on adding a hitch the consensus is that the hot wire IS required...there's too much of a draw to power the trailer lights beyond what that circuit is rated.

 

Thanks tcperconti !

 

I doubt I will ever tow anything (because I don't have the oil cooler YET)

I found out you can tow anything up to 1k lbs without the cooler.