Hi Tony, doesn`t seem right that a 3 year old battery should die ... and from one day to another like you described. Try disconnecting and cleaning the battery terminals and clamps (with a softer wire brush or sand paper), puting some grease on them and retighten well. In my younger days I couldn`t get my Fiat 125 to start so I took out the STARTER twice (took me hours) thinking that that was the problem, only to find out in the end that it was just the corroded battery terminals which could have been fixed in 5 minutes. It might not be your case but why not give it a try, it`ll only take a few moments ... and even if it doesn`t solve the problem, at least you`ll have nice clean clamps for your new battery

 

Hi Tony, doesn`t seem right that a 3 year old battery should die ... and from one day to another like you described. Try disconnecting and cleaning the battery terminals and clamps (with a softer wire brush or sand paper), puting some grease on them

Yep, it isn't right. However, grease is not needed. We've had many old batteries (over 10 years old) with no grease and no problems. Some time ago I bought two new batteries for my van from battery specialist (the shop which only business for nearly 50 years has been batteries) and they confirmed this - no grease, just good contacts. If some oxidizing should occur, the reason is not the lack of grease but faulty battery (or maybe loose contact). (By the way: battery specialist also told me that the best method for clamp cleaning, if needed, is warm water.)

I've been listening to my Pat's starter motor sound with small fear. It doesn't sound very efficient but I don't have anything to compare it to since I'm new with Pat. It's frustrating how different batteries can be. Our '97 Toyota has it's original Yuasa battery - 12,5 years old and it was tested a month ago in service - tested out just fine! I also had another Toyota original battery (Panasonic) for over 11 years. And once again I must remind y'all that we have kinda hard winters (-20°F or more sometimes) - especially "hard for batteries" that is.

 

I don't think battery clamps would be the reason why I measured 4.5V of voltage across the battery terminals themselves... Not to mention the fact that I did have the battery checked with a tester, which did not give good results. No, it doesn't seem right that a 3 year old battery goes completely dead, but this one is.

 

I don't think battery clamps would be the reason why I measured 4.5V of voltage across the battery terminals themselves...

Yeah... Even if you hadn't tested it, that alone tells it's really dead... 12V battery is considered as empty when it reads something like 11,xxV. Full would be close to 13V or more (or technically 12,72V).

I guess too many extremes.

I think I can call -30°F to +85°F quite extreme as well... And for example, Toyota Optifit batteries come with a 3-year warranty so I would get them for free if they would suck that much.

 

I figure with all my 4-8 hour road trips, my battery must be in good health! But now I'm in Chicago, and I'm a mile from work... gonna need more road trips!

 

Batteries can and (as you found out) will fail without any notice. In my experience a wet battery at anything over 2 years can go at any time. We've got 10+ battery powered floor scrubbers at work that have had batteries fail within 6 months and some that are 5 years old, in our case incorrect filling and improper charging are the biggest causes of failure.

The battery in my Patriot was swapped out last summer, started testing low and I threw in the yellow Optima from my old XJ which is going on 8 years old and still load testing fine.

 

I had a battery problem, I thought. Diesel engine and -16 C. Tried twice, then nothing. Recharged the battery and run a battery test (original battery, 2,5 years old). After that started OK.
I though, that quite old battery, diesel engine, cold wheater, short trips, therefore logical that the battery was empty after all that...
Started to drive at least 10 km after starting to get the engine warm and battery reloaded.

But after two weeks again, -18C, tried once, after that nothing. Lights, when trying, were ok, no darkening, just click-click-click sound from starter. After some more tries, absolute silence. But all lights still working. Tryed with "crocodile" to jump-start, nothing, not even click-click-sound. Towed then to the service. They charged the battery again and tried. Started OK (+13 C). Fortunately the hood was open and someone noticed lot of sparkels from down there when starting... So they attached the minus-wire to the starter again, it had gotten loose somehow and now the problem is gone

So, check also the wires on the battery, and the minus wire to the body and to the starter.

 

Is it possible that you have some electrical item that is drawing current--however small--when the car is turned off? I note you refer to a CB unit, and I'm wondering if there's something that may be the culprit.

We who live in the 110+ heat for a couple months, then go to just freezing for a couple of months do find that batteries last only 3-4 years--I guess too many extremes.

 

Is it possible that you have some electrical item that is drawing current--however small--when the car is turned off?

For example, a built in flash-light in the trunk not turned off when put back.

 

I think every battery I've ever owned has lasted at least 5 years. Most recently I got 7 years/235,000 miles out of my Pontiac OE battery. Then one day, poof.

Uh-h, just remembered the battery in my Olds Bravada died after only a couple years, but I'd run it down twice -- once in summer, once in winter -- (didn't have rundown protection like most cars do today). It got so I couldn't park with my flashers on for more than 10-15 minutes, so I replaced it.

 

Do not put grease on your battery posts. Grease does not conduct electricity. Clean terminals and posts with a brass brush or emery cloth. Put the clamps on the posts and then cover them with a anti-corrosion product like No-Ox (this looks like grease and may be the cause of the confusion Boy George was talking about). This protects the clamps and posts from battery gases.

 

Do not put grease on your battery posts. Grease does not conduct electricity. Clean terminals and posts with a brass brush or emery cloth. Put the clamps on the posts and then cover them with a anti-corrosion product like No-Ox (this looks like grease and may be the cause of the confusion Boy George was talking about). This protects the clamps and posts from battery gases.

http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL" is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. This electrically conductive grease which been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID electrical grease prevents the formation of oxides, sulfides and other corrosion deposits on copper, aluminum, and steel surfaces and conductors.
Use NO-OX-ID A-Special as a battery terminal grease to prevent battery corrosion for your car battery maintanance and marine battery maintanance. For battery connections coat the post, screw, clamp, terminal liberally with NO-OX-ID.

 

The OEM batteries fitted on Calibers ,Compass & Patriot were CRAP & Chrysler knew it. The Export versions of these vehicles were fitted with Optima Red Tops . My Cali & Patriot both had Optima.The OEM batteries lasted between 3 weeks & 9 months. USA Cali guys on another forum had them replaced to Optimas under warranty. It was Cost cutting excercise , by Chrysler , That backfired on them.

 

The Export versions of these vehicles were fitted with Optima Red Tops . My Cali & Patriot both had Optima.

Well I don't have Optima. I have a black battery with a sticker that says something "Mopar" or "Chrysler"... Same looking than here but with the sticker on top.

the battery has a 3 years (60,000km)waranty in canada,i guess it's should be the same in europe

No, unfortunately... The battery has only 1 year (20,000km) warranty here. It's written in my warranty booklet and dealer also told the same. (The car itself has a warranty of 2 years without km limit.) I did expect it to be 2 years or 3 like with Toyota Optifit batteries (I mean if you buy a new one, that also comes with 3 years warranty, Exide and many other brands having 1 year, Optima 2 years I believe) .

BTW the battery is not the only thing that has this "limited warranty time"... Windshield wipers, brakes, liquids, fuses, things like those I can understand. But I find surprising that "alignments (lists, plastic fenders and decals, windows)" are there too.

 

the battery has a 3 years (60,000km)waranty in canada,i guess it's should be the same in europe and usa, check with your dealer before you replace it at your own expense.

 

I was in contact with Jeep importer. They had no information whatsoever about Optima batteries.

I find it interesting that they have given Red Tops in some countries, because it's a expensive battery. After quick search I found prices from $200 to $340 in this country, other batteries being typically something like $70 - $140 here.

 

Tony1911: Make sure you check fluid levels in your battery cells and if low fill with distilled water(not tap water). Mine is a '07 also and I have added water twice in 3 years on the original battery. Then start the Jeep, turn the lights on and check across the battery with a voltmeter to verify the alternator is working (12.4-12.6 volts). If you remove a battery clamp for several days, and then hook it up and your jeep fires right up, the battery is holding a charge. If you don't start if for several days and then it turns over slowly or not at all, something is draining the battery.

 

Make sure you check fluid levels in your battery cells and if low fill with distilled water

At least with 08 models Chrysler OEM battery is maintenance-free (like every battery should be nowadays since we don't live in the 1980s anymore). They mention it on the user's handbook also (both US and export), you don't need to / you can't add water. Not sure what Tony had but he bought a new one already.

The OEM battery does not have "inspection eye" (built-in hydrometer) which the better maintenance-free batteries usually have.

When the time comes, I think I'm going to buy Toyota Optifit battery for my Patriot if I find the right size. Maintenance-free w/ inspection eye, 3 years warranty and not too expensive.

 

That is just dielectric grease - Also known as bulb grease. Any auto parts store carries it . usually costs 99 cents.

 

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001202.html

Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Because it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector.
The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected.

 

I have bought maintenance free sealed batteries before and after several years, I pried/broke the cap covers loose and added distilled water. They lasted for 2/4 more years.