Just got new brake pads and rotors installed by the dealership, after one week there is significant brake dust on front wheels. Have never had this before on the patriot. Is this just something common with new brakes and will likely get better with a little more use? Or should I report it to the service center at the dealership to have fixed?



Thanks

Has to do with brake pad material. Ceramic won’t do it. Sounds like they put a less expensive pad with a lower grade material on. I put new ceramic pads on mine 5 months ago and haven’t noticed any brake dust


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Good news about the ceramic pads, kind of thought the dealership would have used OEM parts...no?

 

I've never noticed brake dust on either of our Patriots, but I got a lot on my Grand Prix. I suspect your new pads (non-OEM?) are the culprit.

 

Two schools of thought on brake pads: 1) use soft (dusty) so that the disc doesn't wear, or 2) use harder material so that the brakes work better, but when pads are done, most times, so are discs. Seems like there are no winners here....

 

Thanks, Jack. You've explained why my brake pads last so long, and why the discs are done at the same time.

 

Get Posi-Quiets or Raybesto Ceramic - best ones I've used at a good price.

 

Will check into Post-Quiets and Raybesto Ceramic. Thanks! Have never done my own brake work before, seems like a good time to start! Is a brake pad replacement difficult?

 

Not sure what the dealership used, they are one of the more prominent Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep dealers in the area...would have assumed they'd have used OEM parts. Does anyone know what the OEM brake pads are? Material, make, model?

 

Brake pad replacement is one of the easier DIY maintenance jobs. But, it pays to learn about and actually do the small details that make it a quality job vs. just a "pad slap". There are too many articles online about doing a complete brake job, so I won't repeat this stuff. You Tube has some good videos also.

Regarding what is installed OEM on Patriots, go to this MOPAR brake application pdf link: http://www.moparrepairconnection.ca/assets/docs/brake-application-guide.pdf

The second table with yellow header shows the OEM numbers and that they are ceramic (page 15).

 

Yeah, the brake pad rule of thumb...
Semi-metallic pads typically have the best stopping power, good brake fade but with more noise, rotor wear and dust.

Ceramic pads have less stopping power and more brake fade but produce less dust, rotor friendly and typically last longer.

These are the pads i installed on my XJ a few months ago.
So far, no dust, no noise and decent stopping power.

https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us/products/brake-pads/element3-eht

 

i researched this alot when i did my front pads. i called the local dealer and they told me they use semi-metallics from the factory- i don't believe that because i never had brake dust from new till i changed over to the new semi metallics. i asked a trusted mechanic shop what they recommended and they agreed that semis were "best" for rotor life as long as you don't mind the dust and noise.

with that said, i have read that semi metallics are easier on rotors and don't wear them like ceramics due and that ceramics will cause rotors to warp/vibrate. semis due wear quicker- bit to me who cares as i seem to change them anyhow due to warped rotors after a couple to 3 years and 20-30k miles.

I seem to have had issues on my other older vehicle after replacing pads/rotors, they would cause the rotor to pulsate after a couple years, abt 20-30k miles versus oem lasting 70k miles with no vibes. I always went with ceramics on that one as they were supposedly "better" and more expensive....LOL.

so this last time, i went with semis on the 2013 patriot- it's first change after 70k miles, and also replaced the brake discs in front. I haven't touched rears and won't for another 30k miles.

we shall see the results but i have seen some dust and it's been smooth as silk after 1000 miles or so.

perhaps matching the ceramic pads to the right disc is key. i don't know. i usually buy the best aka heavy duty and not economical when it comes to rotors and pads so go figure....

 

Raybestos Brake Tech School, Part One: Rotors Don't Warp | Hendon Publishing

some good info here.

 

That IS a good link Silverflash. Butttttttt........if you read the reply comments, some people believe the ideas about run out (parallelism) and uneven lug torque causing pulsation, but they still think that some warping is possible in unique conditions. Another theory is that pedal pulsation is because of uneven pad deposits on the rotor ( Stop Tech link: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths ).

The fact that experts argue and disagree about causes tells me that there is still some room to be a skeptic about any one theory.

Regarding ceramic vs. semi-metallic, I think that the ceramic marketing hype can mean anything from a trace of it in the formulation to mostly ceramic. This makes choosing brake pads a guessing game at best. Anecdotal stories are all over the place for any given brand/formulation, leaving us to guess even more. Rotor choice is just as bad. All we can do is try.

Thanks again for the link! Excellent reading, and it opens up the mind to all the possible underlying issues of brake pulsation.

 

I prefer ceramics because you don’t get brake dust like you do semi’s and they last longer. Ceramics are slightly more likely to cause warped rotors because they can build more heat. I haven’t had any problems running my ceramics. I drive aggressively and tow a lot. I’ve put 7k miles on the pads and they brake just as smoothly as when I put them on.


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Well, I don't know what the formulation of my '08's pads were, but they were never dusty, only squeaked after a rain, and went 130K miles on oem parts. And my rotors were hardly scored, suspect they could have been just surfaced and pads changed.

 

Driving style not only makes a difference in fuel economy, engine wear and tear, but also on tires and brakes. Too many folks drive "as if every stop sign is going to turn green", so those sudden stops make a big difference. I live in the mountains, on the prairie, and near the coast--all types of driving. I probably only make two or three "panic stops" a year, and I drive on I-5 (and surrounding/connecting freeways...) in WA, and in CA. Defensive driving is the key--as my former neighbor and California Highway Patrol used to tell service groups--drive as if you were speeding--looking for that cop behind, beside you, etc., keeps you alert. And, in my case, perhaps my 50+ years in the cockpit has taught me a thing or two about "situational awareness"....

 

Yep!! ^

My brakes also last a long time.
I attribute that to coasting as much as practical and safe depending on road conditions/traffic before stopping at a sign or light.
In addition, can substantially increase MPG in stop 'n go traffic.

Can't count the times i had my foot on the brake about ready to pull a panic stop when it 'looked' like a driver was going to blow a stop sign.

Far as situational awareness, i'd think piloting air planes and riding motor cycles have a lot in common in that respect.
After years of riding motor cycles, that rear view mirror along with extreme situational awareness is really one's 'guardian angel'.

Far as cops and situational awareness, a radar detector goes a long way. I have a radar detector in all of my vehicles.

I don't intentionally speed, well sometimes on a lonely country road when one of my vehicles needs an Italian tune up. lol
Most police today typically use Ka band radar and have it on full time letting me know if a cop is in the area.
Its the cops that use instant on radar that can defeat a radar detector.
But a lot of times when they instantly 'flash' a near by vehicle on the road i'll get that brief Ka band alert.

Jack, if you're still around, what war birds did you fly?

My father worked on B-24's in the South Pacific during the big war.
He once told me when the Japanese tried bombing and strafing their air field they were lousy shots missing most if not all of their intended targets.
He went on to say that was towards the end of the war when the Japanese likely had under trained rookie pilots.

I asked if any of them did Kamakazi type crashes on the air field.
Censoring and paraphrasing...
'No, not that i can remember, they were probably sitting on their soiled under wear'

 

and i baby my cars in general. i drive conservatively and anticipate stops coming up and let the car slow on it's own without using brakes much. i go to mountains and on way down, i use a lower gear, like in patriot 5spd manual, i use 4th and rarely have to touch the brakes whereas i see red lights all around me going down... so it's def not my driving.

i have switched the jeep to semi-metallics so maybe that will help.

perhaps i wasn't matching the rotors properly to the ceramic pads- not sure how you do that though?

 

yes but the heavy duty rotors and pads.......the only thing i didn't do was regrease the caliper slide pins which i started doing right after i did the last set on my x- doing friends xterra....