I didnt even realize there was a vent duct down there haha! But based on the size of amps many members have under there, I would seriously doubt you would have a heat problem.

 

My amp hasn't had any problems under my seat!


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Thanks for the input! I figured I was probably over thinking it... Looks like Sunday will be install day, barring any last minute plan changes.

I was just thinking though, this will be the fifth vehicle that these components will be installed in.

'94 F-150 extended cab
'98 Contour SVT
'00 Ram 1500 quad cab (this was a KILLER dual amp install, wish I hadn't lost the pics)
'05 Taurus (don't judge, that cheap commuter helped me buy my house)
I meant to install it in my last car too, an '06 Mazdaspeed6. But that car turned into a nightmare and I traded it for the Tot before doing anything with it.

 

are you guys running stock wiring with your amps? im getting a set of Cadence 6x9 subwoofers for the front doors (dont look at me weird like that, the window regulators in the back doors get in the way) and there's no way in hell the stock wiring will handle that load. Just need ideas on how to run new wiring

 

Good news, the amp has been running under the seat for a couple weeks now without any issues. Oh, and it's been below zero here the entire time, so that two weeks has been with the heat vent blasting on it as high as it goes the entire time. Today was -25 F, no problemo.

As far as front subs are concerned, what are your plans for the rest of your front stage? If all you've got planned for the front are subs in the doors and some tweeters up front somewhere, it really won't sound very good. All your mid range will have to come from behind you, and that will drag the soundstage all over the place. If you're planning kick panel mids to along with sail or A pillar tweets and door subs, then you'll have a fantastic 'up front' sound stage!

Running wiring into the front doors can be pretty tricky. Google 'running speaker wire through molex' (molex is the name of the connector in the door frame) and you'll see some great forum threads with pictures. A run of 12 or 14 ga through the molex is doable with a little patience and some research. But seriously, unless you've got big plans for mids and highs up front, replacing your only up front source of 100-4000 or so Hz with a <100 Hz subwoofer will really disappoint you.

 

I've had amps under both seats for almost a year and haven't had any issues with overheating.

 

Stock Stereo

Can you wire an amp and sub into the stock stereo? I haven't torn it open to look yet because I thought I would be wasting my time. Any info?

 

Of course! Get a line level converter and splice the harness behind the radio to access signal. Connect RCA cables to line level converter and hook them into the amp. Splice the + wire on the back of the cigarette lighter for remote turn on and you're done. I'll paste a wiring diagram for the radio later today.

 

This is for a 2012, but it was correct for my '11 as well.

2012 Jeep Patriot Car Stereo Wiring Guide
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Red/Light Blue
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: N/A
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Yellow
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Violet
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Yellow
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 4″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Dark Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Brown
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Depth: 4″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Size: N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Depth: N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Location: N/A

I've used this model of LOC in several vehicles (including the Pat) and have found it to be a reliable, functional unit for the price. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4993_Scosche-SLC-4.html

As a side note, I also installed a switch in the remote turn on lead to allow me to power the amp off. This has been very useful in day to day use as I don't generally listen to subwoofer friendly programming in the mornings before work. Additionally, I want to be able to unhook the sub enclosure and take it out of the jeep regularly to make room for my mountain bike inside. Switching the amp off entirely means that the bare speaker leads left behind are cold. I installed the switch inside the center console.

 

Thank you, I will check it out =)

 

Has anyone used a Helix connector to hook up to an amp?

 

Did you tap into the front or rear speakers?

 

Rear. It's nice to have your front stage and rear bass separate so that you can blend them using the fade function on the receiver. I've got mine faded to the front a fair amount to keep the bass from dragging everything back too much.

I also HIGHLY recommend some form of remote level control dial for your sub amp if you're using the factory radio. The factory system reduces bass as you increase volume to protect the speakers. It's not super obvious with just the speakers, but it is extremely pronounced with a sub. There's almost as much bass at volume 16 as there is at 22. This causes some major tuning problems, primarily at lower volume levels. If you set your amp to play a well blended amount of bass at highway speed 'jamming out' volume, it will be absolutely overwhelming at lower levels. Choose an amp with an optional remote level control (bass knob) and the problem dissapears. If you already have an amp, you can buy a universal RCA level control knob to install in the RCA cable to accomplish the same task.

 

Thanks man, that helps a lot =)

 

I've installed a 475 watt 4-channel and a 600 monoblock under both my front seats and integrated it into the stock REF unit. I didnt need a converter since my 4-channel had a speaker input on it. it also had rca pre-outs which i ran to my sub amp. in order to run the wires i cut the stock harness (I know, I know, i hated doing that but it was the only way since NOBODY makes an a/m harness with EVERY wire the stock unit needs) and ran the wires from the unit to the amp, then from the amp I ran it back to the stock speaker wires. SOOOOO much room behind that stereo! I love it. just make sure you warm your pat up before you pry the damn center console out and accidentally snap both retaining clips. (07-11 was a stupid design for the center console)

 

I just made a thread about this install.
Have you installed it yet, I wouldn't mind seeing a picture.

 

I'll try to take some pics this weekend. No promises. I do need to take the seat out and re-route some wires. It looks pretty good as is, but I don't *love* it at the moment. I knew when I installed it that the factory radio attenuated bass as volume increases, but I wasn't expecting it to be so severe. I had to put a level controller on the amp, and haven't actually mounted to knob or properly run the wire for it yet. I was thinking about doing that this weekend, and if I do, I'll take some pics.

 

2011 patriot after market radio install

my daughter has a 2011 patriot latitude x. I got her an aftermarmket radio with nav and dvd. The harness I have with SWC, gives me 2 options to install. with or without amplifier. From all I have read so far, is it safe to say that this is non amplified. IT HAS THE OEM BASE RADIO WITH DVD. SEEMS NO FRILLS. tHE NEW ONE I AM INSATLLING DOES NOT HAVE SIRIUS, BUT NOT AN ISSUE.
TIA

 

with or without amplifier. From all I have read so far, is it safe to say that this is non amplified. IT HAS THE OEM BASE RADIO WITH DVD. SEEMS NO FRILLS. tHE NEW ONE I AM INSATLLING DOES NOT HAVE SIRIUS, BUT NOT AN ISSUE.
TIA

If the factory radio has the Boston Acoustics upgrade then it would be considered the "amplified" option that I think you are asking about.

You can tell if you have this by the subwoofer in the rear cargo area as well as logos on the speaker grills, I think? Not to mention it might sound a little better than your ordinary stock radio...

 

I had an amp under my Toyota Truck and it never had an issue. Don't know about the jeep. Can't see it would be a problem though.