When I was looking at 60k service on my FDII, dealers were charging $700-$900 and I had local mechanic do it for $400.

 

Ok, so around 500 then is not so bad. I should maybe jump on it before the price changes even though I have like 1100 miles to go.

 

That was for my FDII, not sure if price difference for 4X2,
As cvt fluid alone is like $100,

 

I thought 489 was a good price.. I see your from Charlotte what dealership are you going to?

 

The 60k mile service on a 4x2 is basically an engine oil change ($21.95-$34.95 and most include a 15-25 point safety check), air filter change (~$15) and spark plugs ($2-4 each and 1/2 hour to an hour worth of labor which is usually $80-$120 per hour). There is no CVT fluid change requirement unless the vehicle was used for towing/police/off-road use.

So $489 sounds very steep too me. Using the highest price values above, It should be more like $190. Throw in an additional $10-$20 dollars for tire rotation and maybe an extra $80-$120 for an alignment and you're still only at $330!

 

According to my book for my 4x2, I am also needing the spark plugs, CVT fluid changed, rear differential fluid changed, and the transfer case fluid changed, and yes, my manual is specifically for a 4x2.

Price was quoted from Kefferjeep.

Is what they need to do to it,not accurate?



Miles
(Kilometers)
Change engine oil and engine oil filter, or at 3 months whichever comes first.
Change Automatic Transaxle (CVT) Fluid and Filter Change Manual Transaxle Fluid.
Change Rear Drive Assembly (RDA) fluid.
Change Power Transfer Unit (PTU) fluid.
Rotate tires.
Check spare tire for proper pressure and correct stowage.
Inspect brake linings.
Replace engine air cleaner filter.
Replace spark plugs.
Inspect PCV valve, replace as necessary.**
Flush and replace engine coolant at 60 months, or 102,000 miles (170 000 km) whichever comes first. Replace climate control air filtration filter (if equipped).

 

The 4x2 does not have the rear differential (or Rear Drive Assembly, RDA) or the transfer case (which is actually called the Power Transfer Unit, PTU)...those are only on the 4x4 models. Yours is a Front Wheel Drive only, and according to the maintenance schedule in the 2008 Owners manual, CVT fluid change is at 120,000 miles (regardless of it being 4x2 or 4x4). I can't imagine they changed that from 2007.

EDIT:
I just checked my maintenance schedule and while it does say to change the CVT fluid and filter, there are two asterisks next to it. At the bottom of the page, the ** note reads:

Change if using vehicle for police, taxi, fleet, off-road or frequent trailer towing.

 

The 4x2 does not have the rear differential (or Rear Drive Assembly, RDA) or the transfer case (which is actually called the Power Transfer Unit, PTU)...those are only on the 4x4 models. Yours is a Front Wheel Drive only, and according to the maintenance schedule in the 2008 Owners manual, CVT fluid change is at 120,000 miles (regardless of it being 4x2 or 4x4). I can't imagine they changed that from 2007.:

I didn't think 500 was too bad either since my dad has a Hyundai Elantra GT from 2004 and he paid over 600 for his 60000 service. BUT if I don't have a lot of the stuff on that list and I really don't have to do the CVT fluid then basically it's spark plugs, air filters, oil change and rotate the tires...I can do that myself. Well I let them do the oil change and rotation because the coupons on the Jeep website let me get all that for only $17.95.

So, does anyone know for sure on all those fluids for the 2007 4x2 with CVT?

 

I've had a lot of good help from State line's service dept. you could call around and check other dealerships too. I still don't think 489 is too bad I figured itd be around 500.

Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using AutoGuide.Com Free App

 

As Todde stated, you do not have a 4x4 so this eliminates the rear drive assembly and the ptu which transfers power to the rear drive assembly. I would do just the cvt and coolant as preventive maintenance and definitely change the plugs, air filter, oil, and oil filter. 500 seems steep for less than a hundred dollars worth of parts. If you do everything except the cvt you would be in the area of 80.00 in material.

 

http://www.jeep.com/download/pdf/ma...Patriot.pdf?myyear=12&myvehicle=5&o-download-button.x=45&o-download-button.y=15

If you go to where the 60000 service is (page 399 in manual and 400 of the file) the CVT is clearly marked and there is no key for delaying it. Only PCV valve has that and it's just that you can't void the emissions warranty if you don't do it. So I need a dealership to do oil/filter, rotate the tires, CVT fluid/filter and then the coolant. Now to find a deal or a coupon.

I have done all the other stuff myself before at 30000.

Any thoughts on a price?

 

Page 400 is for schedule B. Most likely you should be following schedule A. Change CVT fluid at 120000.

 

I follow schedule B due to my driving and honestly how I was raised to change at every 3000 religiously. My thought is you can't go wrong changing your oil too frequently.

 

All you do is waste oil by changing too frequently.

What kind if driving do you do?

A lot of folks, my wife included, think they are easy on a car when all they do is short trip to work odd trip to store, stop and go.

In fact that is hard service as you never get the full mechanical system up to operating temps over a sustained period.

When, in fact, it is those of us with longer highway commutes that are doing the easy service as the heat boils off moisture in the exhaust, allows the additives in the oil to clear passages of sludge and so on.

Given that you aren't killing it by driving like an idiot.

I'm approaching 13,000 kms and still no oil change light. I put that down to my daily highway run as every other bit of driving I do is normal stop and go in town stuff with my rural, slower industrial roads in the middle. On a long change vehicle I do use a premium filter and I do change it out half way, top up the oil and carry on.

That is cheaper than a full oil change and gets us under the vehicle for a look around often enough to catch stuff...like a split CV boot etc.

If you use factory spec oil you are getting semi-synthetic as all 5-20 oil is at least semi...the one I use I'm told is full syn. That is without paying special rates for synthetic or waiting for it to go on sale.

I am looking for a remote filter adapter...so far no luck. No place to install on either, it sure is crowded around our engines.

Anyway, all that is the long way around saying you really don't need to "over-change" your oil.

 

Most of my driving is around town, stop and go stuff with my work commute being 12 miles one way. If I do take a long trip it is to my parents out in the sticks down dirt and gravel roads. So, schedule B for me.

 

Reason oil change every 3k miles is still recomended is because the modern additives only last about 3k miles, after that you basically running on 1950's grade oil till the oil itself breaks down.

 

As I said before, if I changed every 3K I'd be in 9 or 10 times a year.
not going to happen.

I buy and hold, all my vehicles including bikes and toys are long term ones.
My XL7 is approaching 400,000 kms.

I've been driving for over 50 years...if there was any benefit to short oil changes I'd have found it but in my experience there isn't. I've not had any oil related issues on any of my vehicles, ever.

manufacturer doesn't recommend every 13,000 kms because they want you to wreck the engine, eh?

 

Again why I do schedule B. figure if I follow that, save all receipts and document everything in maintenance book, they can't deny a lifetime warranty claim!

 

I change my oil whenever the light comes on, and on the last change that was around 7,000 miles. I go by the manual on change intervals, and I use full synthetic and a high quality filter as Metaxa said. I do have a lifetime warranty though

 

Well, to each their owm, but it is Schedule B for me....plus with the coupon on the Jeep website, oil change, tire rotation and 23pt inspection is only $17.95, so it is cheap enough, and always dealer done. Again, peace of mind, they can't contest a warranty claim since it is documented, and honestly, I can't do it myself that cheap!

 

Well, to each their own...

Exactly! Whatever beings peace of mind

 

todde is on my side, todde is on my side.

Neener, neener, neener.

 

All fine and dandy, but my 2007 has a Schedule B, and my driving falls within its parameters, so I follow that. Again...nothing they can do to void the warranty when they do it...

Plus, doesn't really lighten my wallet....

$17.95 for oil/filter, inspection and tore rotation....

So, even at 2 times, I'm spending $36.00 in 6000 miles...

Now, I can barely go out and buy the materials for the oil change for less than $18.00 anymore, and even if I do, I still don't have my tires rotated...

I think frequent rotations is another reason I pushed 50,000 miles from the OEM tires it came with....

Again, to each their own...

 

called around and have the same reply from all the dealerships in my area....4 of them...

In 2007 for the Lifetime Warranty, the CVT fluid MUST be swapped out with the filter...If not, voided warranty....

What bites??? Cheapest price quote...$290...

OUCH!

Just wanted to tell people what was said by the Charlotte, NC area dealers....

Keffer, Stateline, Lake Norman and Marburger...all said the same thing about the fluid for 2007 and all had quotes from $290-329....

 

called around and have the same reply from all the dealerships in my area....4 of them...

In 2007 for the Lifetime Warranty, the CVT fluid MUST be swapped out with the filter...If not, voided warranty....

Is that what the manual says though? I thought the lifetime powertrain warranty was for '08-'09 models?

 

2007 has the Lifetime Powertrain warranty standard....

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2198

I bought in April 2008 so i have it and all documentation to show i have it...

Plus I did buy the Lifetime Bumper to Bumper anyway...but Powertrain is standard...

EVERY Dealer says though that if the 60,000 CVT is not documented, then that warranty is void, and they'll know it wasn't done via the computer and the Powertrain check that we all have to do anyway at the 5 year mark...

 

Hey all...NEW UPDATE...

Marburger Jeep in Concord, NC was bought out by Hendrick Automotive who my dad retired from...

So, I had him call there and he spoke directly to the Service Manager...

Here's the deal...

For 2007 the original manuals don't say 60,000 for a CVT Service...BUT, Jeep started having early transmission failures in the CVTs, so they CHANGED the service to 60,000, and printed new manuals to place in 2007s which had not yet been sold. That's why my book says to do it (I didn't buy my Patriot brand new until April 2008). Anyway, anyone with a 2007 and the old book was supposed to have a received a notice from the dealership advising of the new Service Requirement, and the fact that the warranty would be voided if it was not followed. Had somehow, the vehicle already acquired the 60,000 miles on it, the service would have been performed for free if it was performed within 90 days of the receipt of said letter. This whole cost of the manual re-printings also explains now why you get an Owners CD...much cheaper for changes...

So, there may be a bunch of you with what you think are Lifetime Powertrains who no longer have them...

 

Hey all...NEW UPDATE...
...

For 2007 the original manuals don't say 60,000 for a CVT Service...BUT, Jeep started having early transmission failures in the CVTs, so they CHANGED the service to 60,000, and printed new manuals to place in 2007s which had not yet been sold. That's why my book says to do it (I didn't buy my Patriot brand new until April 2008). Anyway, anyone with a 2007 and the old book was supposed to have a received a notice from the dealership advising of the new Service Requirement, and the fact that the warranty would be voided if it was not followed. Had somehow, the vehicle already acquired the 60,000 miles on it, the service would have been performed for free if it was performed within 90 days of the receipt of said letter. This whole cost of the manual re-printings also explains now why you get an Owners CD...much cheaper for changes...

So, there may be a bunch of you with what you think are Lifetime Powertrains who no longer have them...

I'm surprised that this post hasn't gotten more attention.

It seems strange that Chrysler could have a super secret maintenance schedule revision and then essentially retroactively eliminate warranty coverage. If this is true, then I hope anyone impacted would contact their state Attorney General's office.

That being said...

I called my dealer and they weren't aware of any manual revisions and their computers showed a 120,000 interval for CVT fluid changes, the same as my printed manual.

I also went to www.moparownercenter.com to double check the maintenance schedule and it indicated the same thing. I also downloaded copies of the manual for my vehicle from jeep.com and it was identical to the printed version. I also downloaded more recent model years (both Compass and Patriot) and it was the same thing.

If there is a revised manual, it must be incredibly top secret if dealerships, jeep.com, and moparownercenter.com don't know about it.

 

little shocked...I would have thought my last message would have drawn a few responses...

Maybe not too many people got burned from all of this...I hope not at least...

 

OK...Here's the close to my story...

Got my Patriot back from Hendrick Jeep in Concord, NC today. Went there as they just went to Hendrick from being Marburger and my dad is a retired Hendrick Employee...

So, got the CVT fluid flush, new transmission filter (the service advisor said it was completely shot and he had never seen one like that in only 59300 miles), new gasket...

Also, coolant was checked and I was advised to NOT replace it...They said it was just like new and there was no reason to change it...

Got my oil changed and tires rotated...new oil filter...

Also had my state inspection done...

Finally, got my new battery for that flashlight in the rear dome light....

Total bill, out the door, after my dad's employee discount...

$283.47

That's it...Man I'm glad I got the employee pricing...

Guy showed me that without that, I would have paid...

$516.92

Pick up my spark plugs, di-electric grease, anti-sieze, and cabin air filter tomorrow...

Was even told not to worry about the PCV Valve because the Patriot breezed through the inspection/emissions, so it has to be good...

Will clean my K&N over the weekend...So, I will have my 60,000 service completed with a state inspection for under $310

Glad the saga is over...

 

Finished my tune up this morning....Did the spark plugs in 23 minutes...so I didn't think that was bad...did a copious amount of Antisieze and Di-electric grease....

Then noticed the battery terminals were massed up, so wanted to clean those up and put di-electric on those...the negative cable that attaches to the battery literally bent as I was loosening the nut to pull it off...I straightened it out and reassembled it, but I'm putting new battery cables on my to-do list...

Oh and when I pulled the NGK plugs (only 30,000 on them as I did replace at 30,000) they didn't look good and one of them looked almost melted as the gap was almost non-existent...The other 3 looked right but they were still black and lookoed burnt up....

I put in Champion Copper Plus plugs...$1.59 each and guranteed 2 years unlimited mileage....I'll still swap them at 30,000 during the 90K service....Just be curious how they look when they come out....

Feel like I've been blogging to myself in this thread the last few days...

Anybody use the Champions before? They were all gapped at 0.44 which the specs say should be 0.43. The guy at Napa showed me though that in the 2008 guide it says 0.40 and he stated that in the math world whther it's 0.35 or 0.44 (the range for claimed OEM equivalent plugs), you are still rounding each to 0.40...I see his logic in that...

 

Then noticed the battery terminals were massed up, so wanted to clean those up and put di-electric on those...the negative cable that attaches to the battery literally bent as I was loosening the nut to pull it off...I straightened it out and reassembled it, but I'm putting new battery cables on my to-do list...

Those cable clamps on the Pat have to be the most useless thing, eh?
I was rustproofing with Fluid Film and when I got to under the hood I decided to squirt my cable ends at the battery.

As soon as I removed the air box inlet thing that covers the battery I could see the positive clamp was cracked, the factory had over-tightened the bolt and had snapped the dog ears right off. just hanging there.

I've seen microwave popcorn come in heavier weight metal than those clamps!

And you can't get just the clamp, it has to be the entire clamp/cable assembly.

 

may not have posted
but have been reading your thread,
sounds like your doing fine and didnt have anything to add