Check the lower relay box wiring for corroded wires. There are several good videos on YouTube about the power to the auto shutdown relay in that box and how it is powered and the corrosion that can occur.

 

Done that, two of the relays were corroded so I cleaned out where they plug in and replaced them. Thought for sure it was going to be my issue but turns out it wasn’t unfortunately

 

This may be TMI if you already worked on the relays, but…

If you already had corroded relays, you really need to check the wires that feed into the relay sockets. The wire that feeds power to the outboard rear relay (right rear when facing from the front) is jumped to feed power to the next relay forward (“main relay”), which is the one that can cause starting issues. Corrosion in the ‘first’ relay socket can cause the power wire for the main relay to become detached.

There are videos on YouTube about rewiring relays outside the relay box in cases where the relay socket is unsalvageable. Depending on the configuration of your Patriot, you might have a spare relay socket that can be used.

 

Ok thanks I’ll have to check the wiring again just to be certain. I’m no mechanic by any means so I really appreciate the help, here is a picture of my relay box. And one more thing I don’t know if it’s just pure coincidence or not but I changed the head light bulbs to LED with the anti flicker box a couple weeks ago, since I changed them high beam was low beam and low beam was high beam, maybe this could all be caused by the same issue? What are your thoughts?

 

I’m no mechanic either, but picked up a few things along the way.

For the relays, here’s a link to what I did last fall, including links to references that might help:

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/posts/1909682/

I just took another look at the schematics (in the first forum link in my post, IIRC) - You might start by taking another look at Fuse 33, which feeds the fan relays and the main relay. If you look closely at those schematics, you can read the wire sizes and the color coding. They also show that the fan relays and the main relay are fed power through S009 which denotes a splice. That splice is not listed in the information in this thread:

https://www.jeeppatriot.com/posts/1894353/

However, the gleanings from the schematics, other posts, and the videos I’ve referenced indicate to me that ‘splice’ S009 is in the socket for the Radiator Fan Low/High relay, specifically the terminal that feeds pin A1 of that relay. If I am reading things right, that’s one of the fat pins, not the skinny pin on mine that had started corroding (whew!).

Disclaimer: I am no expert! Just trying to pass along what I think I’ve learned.

Also: The main relay feeds (only?) the Powertrain Control Module. If your power loss issues include things that are not controlled by the PCM, then this is barking up the wrong tree.

Also Also: If you have a bidirectional scan tool (or know a sympathetic mechanic who has one) you can test the fan relays. If both the fans turn on and off in response to the scan tool, it may indicate that the problem is somewhere else. I use the JScan app (http://jscan.net/) and one of their recommended OBD adapters.

 

Wow this is great information I really appreciate it, I’m going to start digging into all this today once I get a chance! Thanks so much!