Have you tried new plugs? Strange as it may seem, plugs solve a lot of these mystery shuddering/hesitating problems.

Just a thought, these plugs are supposed to be changed every 30k miles.

 

I will grab a set of the oem plugs today and give it a shot tonight. For $10 cant really hurt anything and probably need to be changed anyways. Anything else it could be other than plugs or the throttle body?

 

I had a very similar issue with my Firebird. It ended up being loose spark plug wires. I agree with griff, definitely check out the spark plugs and that the wires are getting good connection.

 

Dodgy plugs or coils would most likely give a CEL and misfire codes, not an ETC.

Have the throttle body cleaned first. the throttle blade may be sticking on carbon build-up. I've done this twice after the ETC light comes on and it cures it. If it doesn't there's a good chance it's either the throttle body motor failing or an issue with the drive-by-wire pedal assembly.

 

Patriot throttle bodies have been known to go bad and your symptoms sure seem similar to those discussed on the internet. Member Silverflash here had one replaced as did I (under warranty). I do not think the powertrain warranty covers this, but check with your dealer. IF you decide to let a dealer repair it, hit them hard with facts learned about this problem on the net and see if they will do a good will repair at reduced cost. A Google search finds two possible problems. There are internal gears that can shear under certain conditions and some have found excess oil in the TB (maybe bad PCV?).

OEM replacements can be had on the net for about $220 delivered. There are numerous You tube videos that show easy replacement from the top side. Search both Patriot and Caliber Throttle Body Replacement at You Tube and Google.

Good luck and keep us posted. I think dealers want $600+ for this service.

Regarding an ETC Relearn procedure, there are diy methods discussed on the net, but there is also controversy about whether this really works or is just a myth.

 

My dodgy spark plug coils did not through a CEL. It would just randomly cut out and start going again without tripping the CEL. There were misfire codes but you wouldn't know without hooking up a code reader.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I went ahead and picked up a set of plugs and the dorman throttle body online for $139.99 shipped. Supposed to be sitting on my front porch when I get home today, not a minute too soon apparently. The wife called me this morning on her way to work and said that the acc pedal stopped working and she got the ETC,4WD, and traction control lights simultaneously. She pulled over and shut it off and let it sit for a minute and all was well. Seems to act up on her worse in the mornings than afternoon. I plan to tear into it tomorrow morning to change the plugs and throttle body as well as check for any loose connections. I am going to crack open the old throttle body and inspect for damage to the gears. I will try to post my findings as well as if it fixes it or not.

 

Got the throttle body and plugs changed this morning took about an hour and a half start to finish. Pretty easy job. Hardest part was the damn wire that's fastened to a tab on the bottom of the intake tube near the throttle body. Went for a 30 mile drive and it runs smoother and not one hiccup so all seems fixed. I'll know for sure the next time the wife drives to work early (where she complains that it acts up the worst)

 

Wife just called and it did it again. Flashing lightning bolt and the throttle stopped responding. What do I replace next?

 

Now throwing u0401, p2173, and c121c. Also noticed the acc pedal position sits at 18% when your foot is off of the gas and 90.5% when it's in the floor. I guess a new accelerator pedal assembly/sensor is next.

 

U0401-IMPLAUSIBLE DATA RECEIVED FROM ECM/PCM

P2173-HIGH AIRFLOW/VACUUM LEAK DETECTED (SLOW ACCUMULATION)

C121C-TORQUE REQUEST SIGNAL DENIED

Instead of throwing parts at it, look into what these codes are for...

 

The factory service manual says that after a TB replacement, you have to do a TB relearn procedure with a scan tool, but for the life of me I cannot find that relearn procedure in the manual.

There are numerous diy relearn procedures on the interweb (check the Caliber forums), but I found one forum argument that claimed the diy relearn procedure was a myth and did not actually work.

I will chime back in when I find the links to these discussions.......

Link to diy procedure: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showth...php/39913-08-Dodge-Caliber-SE-Electronic-Throttle-Control-Indicator-Light/page2

Link to discussion of TB relearn "myth": http://www.300cforums.com/forums/pe...rmance-general-discussion/90566-fuse-11-vs-throttle-reset-whats-difference.html

 

Have so far replaced spark plugs, throttle body, and accelerator pedal and it is still acting up. I am getting desperate for ideas.

 

I cleared the codes after replacing the pedal. After it acted up the next time the only code present was p2173. Found the service bulletin 18-019-08. Described exactly what was happening including the p2173. Solution was to reflash the pcm. Had the dealership do it this morning. Hoping for the best. I will report back on if it's is stil acting up.

 

Still acting up. Anybody have any ideas?

 

Have so far replaced the following

Spark plugs
Air filter
Throttle body
Acc pedal assembly
Steering column control module
MAP sensor
Reflashed the PCM

Have been to 2 dealers one of which said MAP sensor (wrong)
The other replaced the SCCM and supposedly soldered a bad ground (also wrong)

Dealer is somewhat stumped but charging for every damn minute of course.

This has turned into a major ordeal and I am hoping someone has an idea maybe.

Still throwing the same codes, primarily p2173 and c121c

 

Still having the same issues with a p2173 and limp mode. I have replaced the iat sensor and the pcm. Evap system and intake have been smoke tested, no leaks found. Two dealers have been stumped and Chrysler has yet to get back in touch with me after I have reached out to them. Any advice from anybody out there?

 

Send a PM to Jeep Cares. Her name is Andrea and several folks on here have been very positive about her helping them.

 

I had this problem with my 2014 and it ended up being an issue with a cable housing that led to a cable being worn and it began shorting out. Basically a communication between the computer and the throttle body became compromised. The problem became worse and worse until finally the problem was constant and the vehicle went into "limp mode". Luckily mine was still under warranty at the time and the dealership fixed the cable as well as replaced the throttle body.

 

Hi guys, i have the exact same problem. Could you please be more specific when you said " a cable beong worn" which part of the all wiring system was damage ??? Is just to have a idea where to look.

Thanks.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Pm sent and I will trace some wiring when I get home tonight. Any idea where that wire was damaged?

 

Well I carefully traced all the harnesses I could find looking for any sign of wear or corrosion including under the hood, under the dash, and under the drivers side kick panel all the way to the back seat. Didn't find anything. Also slowly wiggled every plug and harness I could get to while the vehicle was running attempting to aggravate the problem. No luck.

 

Well I thought I would post an update. My issues is not fixed completely but I have found a ?band aid? for the limp mode issue. All along the Pat has been throwing a p2173 for a vacuum leak. There are no leaks to be found on any of the intake or evap system. Fooling around one night with the jeep running I pulled the vacuum line off of the pcv valve and immediately prompted it to throw a p2173 and go into limp. That got me thinking that the issue could be air leaking into the engine and being sucked into the intake manifold via the pcv valve hose. I cleared the computer, ran a hose from the pcv valve to dump out under the jeep, and plugged the vacuum line going to the intake manifold. Since doing this, I have not had it throw any codes or go into limp in about 500 miles (it was previously doing it on average every 30-50 miles without fail). While this is not a permanent fix, it does allow my wife to be able to drive it safely while troubleshooting the issue. I am going to do valve cover gaskets as well as the o-rings around the spark plugs this weekend and hook the pcv back up and see where we stand. Problem not solved but narrowed down significantly.

 

Sounds odd, but I would try a new PCV valve.
Get an OEM one, not aftermarket...

 

Has anyone had an issue with using non Mopar throttle body replacement? I’ve heard of that being an issue and my problem is the exact same on a 2017 sport 2WD and when I replaced with a duralast the problem actually got worse

 

Makes me wonder if the problem wasn't the TB.

 

Mine went bad at 38000 miles, all most didn't make it to the dealer...600 bucks!

 

You can also try the vapor canister purge valve

Purge valve replacement