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Do I need special tool to press brake piston back into the caliper??

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SkiRush

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to replace the front disc brakes and rotors. I did this before on this vehicle, but I forgot if I need a special tool to press the piston back into the caliper.

I did this on my Chevy Malibu before and I needed a special tool because the piston needed to be twisted while simultaneously pressing it back in.

Can someone please remind me if the piston on the Patriot front brakes need a tool to twist and press? Or, can it simply be pressed straight back in?


Thanks,

P.S. yes, it needs new brakes already. My wife and I put over 30k miles on it in a year, and it turns out the rotors I got from NAPA were cheap pieces of crap. It's the rotors that are completely worn out already, so I'm replacing those with new pads. But, this time I upgraded the rotors to drilled, slotted, and zinc plated :)
 
#5 ·
I also just use a C-Clamp for pressing in the front or rear piston on the Patriot (I've already changed both front and rear pads).

Coppertrailer said:
Are all Patriots anti-lock? The ones with drums aren't right? All I know is you shouldn't bleed anti-lock vehicles. Not sure why but I think I am right.
Click to expand...
Even rear drums can be anti-lock. And you can bleed the brake fluid if they are anti-lock. The problem with anti-lock is if you get air in the ABS controller. This will only happen if you drain the system, or get a leak and cycle ABS while there is air in the lines. You generally need a scanner that can cycle the ABS solenoids to get the air out, but even then you can do it manually. It takes quite a bit of time and a dirt road, but the procedure is basically like this. Bleed the system until you get some sort of pedal. Drive out on the dirt road and nail the pedal a few times to cycle the ABS. Then repeat the whole procedure again until you have a firm pedal, which could be several cycles of bleed/cycle/bleed.
 
#7 ·
todde 702,

I've read that with ABS systems, it is especially important when pushing in the piston to open the caliper bleeder valve to avoid possibly pushing dirty fluid back into the ABS unit and ruining it.

Some people even pinch the rubber brake line, but I worry about internal damage.

Comments?
 
#8 ·
I have a GIANT set of channel lock type pliers I use to push pistons back in. You just have to make sure you're pushing the piston in straight with those.

I've been pushing pistons back in for years, never had an issue with forcing the fluid back. Opening the bleeder will make it easier, but it will also be messy. Unless you're changing the fluid, ALL the fluid you're pushing will be 'dirty', so that theory doesn't really hold water. If your fluid is so dirty it's a concern, you need to be changing it! Remember, brake fluid really should be flushed/replaced every few years anyway.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Treegrower said:
todde 702,

I've read that with ABS systems, it is especially important when pushing in the piston to open the caliper bleeder valve to avoid possibly pushing dirty fluid back into the ABS unit and ruining it.

Some people even pinch the rubber brake line, but I worry about internal damage.

Comments?
Click to expand...
The ABS solenoids only energize when one or more wheels lock while braking, then the ABS controller uses it's own reservoir for pumping the brakes. In its off state, the fluid is simply bypassing through. I've never had a problem, and never had to replace an ABS controller. I'm thinking you might have heard some mechanic's myth to discourage DIY brake jobs...cause that's all a "pro" mechanic is doing, is pressing the piston in. And I would never pinch the rubber brake hose.

Oh and what ddavidv said too. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water over time. Every few years it should all be flushed out and replaced. Brake fluid with too much moisture in it will boil and turn to steam under heavy/extreme braking, then the steam compresses, you loose braking effort and will feel the pedal fade to the floor.
 
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todde702
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