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#42 ·
After we got ours, we took a slow drive through the parking lot of the dealer that jerked me around. There were a great number of uncomfortably enjoyable stares. I just smiled and waved.

I hope you find a good dealer this weekend - the last day of the month is always a good day to deal - quotas take over greed.
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
End of the month revisit is a good idea. We're really not all that far apart when I break down the numbers. If they still have that car in a day or two I'll follow-up and see if they are ready to make a better deal this weekend. I was thinking I could up my down a bit and try and get something in return, like the cargo security cover I'll want anyway.
 
#44 ·
There's an offer out there that says -
$1000 Customer Cash is available towards retail purchases and may not be combined with 0% - 3.9% APR financing. APR must be financed through Chrysler Capital.
Is that one of the rebates?
 
#45 ·
Lee, looking to trade mine for a 14 too. They offered my $500 off the price of the vehicle, IF I took the Chrysler financing at 4.9%, but I can get 2% financing other places, and 3% on the life of the loan is a lot more than $500.

I think they hate educated buyers like me, who actually know what they are doing.

When I built the 14 on-line at the Jeep site, that gave me a better deal than the dealer.

Makes me wonder why they even have that on the web site, if you can never find the same deal when you go to the dealers?

My main issue is no one has the FDII on their lots, and they all want me to out money down before they bring one in, but I never put money down on anything sight unseen.

Seems like during the re-org Chrysler closed a lot of the wrong dealerships.

Sarkus, too bad so far away, I'd make you a deal on mine as well.
 
#46 · (Edited)
As far as the trade. If you have a CarMax in your area, go to them first and have them give you an appraisal of your vehicle.

Once you have that as a baseline, go to Edmunds, NADA and KBB and see what your vehicle is worth. You can then use is as an advantage when you're ready to negotiate. Print everything out and bring it in when you're ready to close the deal. Using the appraisal from CarMax as the rock bottom price of your trade. Since they will buy the car from you anyway.

Regarding financing, ask them to show you the "Buy Rate". The Buy Rate is the rate that the dealer is purchasing the loan for. Everything from the Buy Rate to your APR is pure profit for the dealer.

The most important thing about negotiating the deal is to let the dealer know that you have absolutely no emotional attachment in the purchase of the vehicle and that you're ready to walk at any time. They need the sale more than you need the car.

If it's get's bad. You can do what my father did when things were not going his way. He actually called a competing dealer while at the finance desk and put them on speaker phone and asked them if they could beat this dealers price. Needless to say the finance guy caved and my father got the deal he wanted.
 
#47 ·
Two years ago when I was moving to the Jeep, I had a 2008 xB to get rid of. KBB trade in value was around $9,000-$10,000, and the xB's listed were priced between $12,000 and $13,000. CarMax offered me $5,000 or $6,000, even though the car was mint. Not willing to take a $5,000 hit on something CarMax could have easily flipped, I read up on the rules regarding selling a car in my area. I listed it on Craigslist and sold it in a week and a half for $10,000

Trading in sucks

Sent from my Nexus 4
 
Discussion starter · #48 · (Edited)
I have an offer on a different 2013 at a different dealership that works out to being less but means a manual transmission rather than the CVT. The 2009 Patriot I drove the other day was a manual, so I know how that feels. I realize I'd get a little better mileage on a manual, and in theory a more dependable transmission, but that CVT sure was a nice experience.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
You know, this whole process is awfully complicated and time consuming! Here's where I'm at right now after running some more numbers (assuming down plus trade are equal, interest rate is higher on the used):

2013 Patriot Sport 4x4 CVT - $260/mo for five years.
2013 Patriot Sport 4x4 Man - $250/mo for five years.
2009 Patriot Sport 4x4 CVT - $250/mo for three years. Though it has 57k miles on it and CR rates the '09's at "average" reliability compared to "above average" for '10 and newer, this one does have the power options. Insurance is $8/mo higher on the '09, but I'd save $6k in car payments! That covers a lot of what the warranty would help with.

Man, I'm conflicted.
 
#50 ·
With all things being equal as far as terms, money down etc, you need to decide if you want to go for 5 years on the 2013 or for 3 years on the 2009.

I would go for the 2013. Since the 2009 is already 6 model years old and does not have all of the updates that were included in the 2011's and on.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
99_XC600 said:
With all things being equal as far as terms, money down etc, you need to decide if you want to go for 5 years on the 2013 or for 3 years on the 2009.

I would go for the 2013. Since the 2009 is already 6 model years old and does not have all of the updates that were included in the 2011's and on.
Click to expand...
Which updates are you specifically referring to? I know they changed the interior again after 2009, but I've test driven a 2009 and I was fine with that. What else changed, other than that I gather they fixed the common suspension issues.
 
#52 ·
Supposedly, better sound dampening, better handling and better suspension as you mentioned as well as interior and exterior updates in a nutshell. Maybe some other things too - others will come in with more details I am sure.
 
#53 · (Edited)
In 2009 they redesigned the interior, some time in 2010 they changed the climate control dials to knobs, and in 2011 they changed the locks and window switches to be backlit and added some chrome bright work inside. Exterior was redesigned in the 2011 model year, which was the start of all 4x4's at FDII height, and there may have been suspension upgrades. 2014 added the 6 speed auto.

Sent from my Nexus 7
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
I've arranged to have the 2009 Patriot inspected, with special attention paid to the suspension, so that I can at least get a better idea if its still a vehicle I should be considering. They are selling it below what KBB says it should be going for and for a lot less then they first offered if for back in March. Whether thats because its sat on their lot for so long (its at a Honda dealership and they acquired it through an auction) or there is something else is the question, but hopefully the inspection will shed some light on that.
 
#55 ·
Interesting...I wonder why a dealer ended up with a 57k mile Pat from an auction?


Although the 3 year term is nicer long term on paper, who can tell what the maintenance costs may be relative to what gets covered under a new vehicle warranty. I was originally trying to purchase a 2009 Legacy with 40k, but ended up buying the Pat instead due to the long term expected maintenance costs. Lower mothly, shorter term on the Leg, but I am not in a position where I can have surprise costly maintenance issues pop up.

Either way you go it sounds like a good deal, good luck!
 
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Discussion starter · #57 ·
Brohio said:
Interesting...I wonder why a dealer ended up with a 57k mile Pat from an auction?
Click to expand...
According to the Carfax report, it was originally sold as a corporate lease vehicle, who held it for 11 months, and then leased until the beginning of this year (can't tell if private or not but that is my guess). Looks like it was put up for sale for a month or so and then auctioned off. That happens a lot with lease returns - they go to "lease return" used car lots first to see if they can get higher value. The current dealer bought it at auction and has had it for sale since March, first offering it at $16999. What its down to now is a lot less than that. The AutoCheck report shows, among other things, suspension work at just under 40k, so that may mean that has already been dealt with.

The inspection I'm having done is supposed to include looking at any available service records, which may or may not be present as it was lease.
 
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Sarkus
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