when is the best time to do my first oil change? I am currently at 570 miles.
Also, is synthetic oil recommended? when should I switch to synthetic?
Also, is synthetic oil recommended? when should I switch to synthetic?
1st oil change and synthetic oil?
ohiobuckintx
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Just got my first oil change at 1000 miles. Went to local Midas (independently owned and a great shop here in Atlantic City) and switched to Mobil 1 synthetic. Brought my own Mobil 1 oil filter ( it and K&N are considered the best) in case they didn't have one in stock. Filter cost me under $10 US at Advance Auto Parts ( I believe they may only be in New Jersey). I agree that I really only need to do what is required to keep my warranty, but do the math. 3000 miles for dino oil, or 6000 with synthetic, works out to the same price and I get a little better gas mileage, and better start-up protection, and virtually a guarranty never to see sludge. I would change the oil myself and save some money but then it's Chryslers word against mine and still a problem with oil disposal. This way, no messy driveway, no hassle with Chrysler and I'm only out $55 (less a $5 coupon found on the Midas web site) every 6000 miles. Not too shabby
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Oil Weight
There is no doubt synthetic oil is better. I am still at odds on which weight is best.
From what I have gathered 5w-20 assists with fuel economy, however 5w-30 protects the engine slightly more.
The Mobile website recommends 5w-30 for the 2008 Patriot, eventhough they also sell the 5w-20. (See attachment)
There is no doubt synthetic oil is better. I am still at odds on which weight is best.
From what I have gathered 5w-20 assists with fuel economy, however 5w-30 protects the engine slightly more.
The Mobile website recommends 5w-30 for the 2008 Patriot, eventhough they also sell the 5w-20. (See attachment)
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790 Posts
I did change mine I used 5w20 and to tell you the truth I think it has a little better pickup & a little smoother running! The MPG's is still at 22 so we will see if it makes a diff.!
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5w20 Pennzoil synthetic for me, changed over at 2,500 miles and am going to be doing every 5,000 from here on out (reminds me, I'm due for the 7,500 this week).
the local oil change place charges $54.95 for a change with synthetic, and considering it's about $30 for the oil and $5 for a filter if I were to change it on my own, might as well let someone else deal with the mess
the local oil change place charges $54.95 for a change with synthetic, and considering it's about $30 for the oil and $5 for a filter if I were to change it on my own, might as well let someone else deal with the mess
Back to top:
The statement about run it like you stole it translates to don't baby the throttle during break-in. The pistons actually travel slightly higher in the cylinder at higher rpms and need to experience this for the rings reach these high points and seat in there. This is why the car you buy from an old lady who only drove it to church at 35 mph on Sunday is a bad buy. It becomes an oil burner because it never saw a break-in of all the engine parts at the proper time. The upper ring of the pistons now hits a ridge at the top of an unworn cylinder wall when it's run at higher rpms and damages the upper ring and allows oil to pass by.
As for using synthetic oil before the break-in is complete, I would expect that this would prolong the break-in period. This can't be a bad thing IMHO but I'm going to do more searches on this and post any contradictions here.
I rebuilt an engine before and agree somewhat with this statement. The rebuild manuals describe that different engine parts break in at different RPM's. During the initial break-in of a newly rebuilt engine, the rebuild manuals say to treat the engine gently the first 500 miles; not accelerating hard and in the case of manual 5 speeds don't lug the engine with a load at a low rpm, like going up a steep hill at 45 mph in 5th gear. After 500 miles they recommend running at higher speeds and higher loads, varying the rpms often in your daily driving. This includes avoiding the use of the cruise control during longer trips since this holds the engine to a relatively fixed rpm and prevents others parts from breaking when they should be.
The statement about run it like you stole it translates to don't baby the throttle during break-in. The pistons actually travel slightly higher in the cylinder at higher rpms and need to experience this for the rings reach these high points and seat in there. This is why the car you buy from an old lady who only drove it to church at 35 mph on Sunday is a bad buy. It becomes an oil burner because it never saw a break-in of all the engine parts at the proper time. The upper ring of the pistons now hits a ridge at the top of an unworn cylinder wall when it's run at higher rpms and damages the upper ring and allows oil to pass by.
As for using synthetic oil before the break-in is complete, I would expect that this would prolong the break-in period. This can't be a bad thing IMHO but I'm going to do more searches on this and post any contradictions here.
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Hand changed to Amsoil Synthetic 5-30 at 1500.
Going to have garage change again (and rotate tires) at 5k and then every 5k after that with Amsoil I supply.
I love being able to justify moments of flooring it as satisfying break in period.
Going to have garage change again (and rotate tires) at 5k and then every 5k after that with Amsoil I supply.
I love being able to justify moments of flooring it as satisfying break in period.
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This is my plan too.
Amsoil although it cost a fair amount more is an excellent sythetic. The 5w-30 is also a better choice. They use this grade for the Patriot gas engines outside North America.
Other than helping North American car makers hit their government CAFE targets I cannot think of any other reason to run 5w-20. BITOG (site below) does not show any protection advantage to using 5w-20 and from what I can tell 5w-30 protects against wear slightly better all other things being equal.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Amsoil although it cost a fair amount more is an excellent sythetic. The 5w-30 is also a better choice. They use this grade for the Patriot gas engines outside North America.
Other than helping North American car makers hit their government CAFE targets I cannot think of any other reason to run 5w-20. BITOG (site below) does not show any protection advantage to using 5w-20 and from what I can tell 5w-30 protects against wear slightly better all other things being equal.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
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I do my oil changed myself with the use of Mobil 1 (5 20w) - Fram Oil Filter PH10060 - Did my first three oil changes at 3,000 miles, now im going back to doing them every 5,000 miles since i drive so much...Barely made my second payment on it and im allready at 10,000 miles on it - also replacing the air filter here shortly with a Fram CA10118 - We get a lot of dust and dirt blowing around out here in Barstow CA...
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Question...why would you put expensive synthetic oil into your car and use a cheapy oil filter, and not a Mobil 1 oil filter? I'm not a mechanic but I have read some really bad things about Fram and Mopar oil filters.
I agree on the good filter bit.
On my wife's Mercedes E320 I change the oil there and use a fleece filter, which lets met extend the change interval to 10000 miles. That engine requires 0w40 Mobil 1 fully synthetic. Smooth as silk. Only kicker is I can do about 3.5 patriot oil changes for the same cost as 1 in the Benz. Although it's a 6-cylinder, it takes 9 quarts to change....
Maybe I talk the wifey into swapping that car out with a Diesel laredo
On my wife's Mercedes E320 I change the oil there and use a fleece filter, which lets met extend the change interval to 10000 miles. That engine requires 0w40 Mobil 1 fully synthetic. Smooth as silk. Only kicker is I can do about 3.5 patriot oil changes for the same cost as 1 in the Benz. Although it's a 6-cylinder, it takes 9 quarts to change....
Maybe I talk the wifey into swapping that car out with a Diesel laredo
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I worked at a quick lube a while back and I can tell you, the whole 3000 mile thing was just their way of being lazy/consistent and to make sure you changed your oil. The guy changing the oil is not going to pull out you manual and see what the interval is supposed to be, he is going to write down 3K for the next change. That is the norm for heavy/dusty/100% NYC driving. Since Chrysler is going to warranty this engine for life, do what the manual says. They are not going to screw themselves by putting something out there that breaks the engine.
For the know it all guy, Will Mobil 1 top of the line go for 25K before needing to be replaced? Yes. Why, once again they are not going to screw themselves. However, read the fine print as it will say follow your engine mfg recomendations ...
But back on topic, will changing it more often hurt? Not the engine, just you wallet. Is synthetic better, does the Sun rise in the east? Unless you purchased a maintence plan with your Pat, there is no mechanical reason to change more often than the Mfg recomends.
On that note, the manual must have a typo. Change the engine air filter at 30k, I will be doing that more often as a cleaner air filter will at least give me beater fuel economy.
For the know it all guy, Will Mobil 1 top of the line go for 25K before needing to be replaced? Yes. Why, once again they are not going to screw themselves. However, read the fine print as it will say follow your engine mfg recomendations ...
But back on topic, will changing it more often hurt? Not the engine, just you wallet. Is synthetic better, does the Sun rise in the east? Unless you purchased a maintence plan with your Pat, there is no mechanical reason to change more often than the Mfg recomends.
On that note, the manual must have a typo. Change the engine air filter at 30k, I will be doing that more often as a cleaner air filter will at least give me beater fuel economy.
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will stick with 3000 mile change,not that the oil has taken a beating but with potholes and half buried rocks on the back roads that I live on I like to have the underside checked at 3000.
oil proporties
if you do highway driving everyday for an extended amount of time you oil will be cleaner than someone who only drives in the city. the reason you have to change it just as often is because the addictavies wear out. when you go to walmart and buy the oil thats only $7 for a jug it does not have as many addictaves as the $20 oil. the whole reason you must change is because it is cheaper than putting the addictaves back in it.
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94 cherokee, off road package
if you do highway driving everyday for an extended amount of time you oil will be cleaner than someone who only drives in the city. the reason you have to change it just as often is because the addictavies wear out. when you go to walmart and buy the oil thats only $7 for a jug it does not have as many addictaves as the $20 oil. the whole reason you must change is because it is cheaper than putting the addictaves back in it.
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94 cherokee, off road package
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my manual states not to change it untill 10000Kms each interval..
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GREAT DEAL in Walmart. They are clearing out their Mobil 1 M1-113 filters at $7.97 each & the new Mobil 1 Advance Fuel Economy Full Synthetic oil 5Q Jugs at $22.00. (There is a rebate form at Mobil 1.com, you can get $10.00 Rebate) I bought 6 filters & 2 jugs of oil, have just over 3000km after 1month & 10 days, might do 1st oil change this weekend.
Did you get 0w20? I didn't think they made that in a 5quart or did you get 0w30?
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It's 0W-30, i bought 2 of those as i think the rebate is only for the Advance Fuel Economy, & 1 Jug of regular Mobil 1 5W-20.
Good price regardless!:smiley_thumbs_up:
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