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Not being a tool here but why are you waiting to go to 5W30 until after your 3/36 warranty expires when you are already running the wrong weight in the 0W30? May as well do it now if you prefer 5W30 because 0W30 is going to cause you just as many headaches as 5W will if you have any internal engine issues.

The performance aspects of the oil don't matter. It is the weight. Chrysler calls for 5W20 in US Jeeps not 0W30 with 20 weight like statistics. You could get away with 0W20 more than likely but 0W30 will cause you the same warranty hassles as 5W30. Both 5W and 0W 30 oils are 30 weight at operating temp. The 0W and 5W are nothing more than cold flow ratings.

Again, not starting anything but you said the same thing on BITOG and you didn't answer me there when I asked the same basic question of you. 30 weight is 30 weight as far as warranty goes. 0W, 5W, 10W won't matter. All Chrysler will see is that 30. If you want to stay warranty compliant you need to run 20 weight.

Also, don't forget you have a 5 year 100K powertrain warranty as well. More than just a 3/36 to worry about.
Okay... I thought I was done being told to color within the lines at 36K. I will stick with 0W-30 M1 AFE w/ a NAPA 7060 at 36K and change at 8K intervals. Maybe.
 
Okay... I thought I was done being told to color within the lines at 36K. I will stick with 0W-30 M1 AFE w/ a NAPA 7060 at 36K and change at 8K intervals. Maybe.
Again, why talk about trying to stay within warranty if you are going to continue running the wrong weight? 0W30 does not meet your warranty requirements. :confused:
 
Way to square 'em away! People just don't know this type of stuff but what's worse are the budget quick lube fartholes they take their vehicles to and expect them to know, when they (the shop) doesn't know because they're so good at what they do, they allow the customer to choose the weight of the oil and what's in their head? NOTHING- but the last oil weight they heard some yahoo boasting about FOR THEIR BMW - O-W30 I LIVE IN NEW ORLEANS AND IF YOUR MOTOR HAS IN EXESS OF 150,000 MILES ON IT? IM GOING TO SAVE YOU A BIG FRIGGIN HEADACHE AND BANK-ROLL AND PUMP IN THE 20W-50 SPECIFIED FOR HIGH MILEAGE ENGINES. ITS THICKER AND IT "HANGS ON" TO THE MOVING COMPONENTS INSIDE THE MOTOR- PREVENTING WHAT I LIKE TO CALL "DRY-HUMPING" THE ENGINE EVERYTIME YOU START IT UP. YOU SEE, CHRYSLER AND CHEVY TOYOTA KIA EVERY AUTO MAKER WILL NOT TELL YOU ABOUT 20W-50 BECAUSE YOUR CAR IS ONLY SUPPOSED TO LAST- AT BEST- A YEAR PAST THE WARRANTY. WHY? SO THEY CAN SELL YOU A NEW ONE WHEN YOURS BLOWS UP BECAUSE THEY HAVE YOU USING THE WRONG OIL! ITS A DESIGN MECHANISM FOR INEVITABLE FAILURE. GUARANTEED!! YOU RARELY SEE A CAR ON THE ROAD ANYMORE THATS 10 YEARS OLD AND IN TIP TOP SHAPE- THAT HASNT HAD EVERYTHING ALREADY REPLACED UNDER THE HOOD. BEST BET- JUST LEASE A DAMN CAR- WAY LESS HEADACHES! AND YOURE NOT STUCK TRYING TO UNLOAD IT! ANOTHER MAJOR MISTAKE IS THAT "TRADE-IN" - WHAT YALL DONT K IW IS THE USED CAR MANAGER AUTOMATICALLY PLACES A VALUE ON YOUR TRADE @$1.00 ! That's all he's going to tie up in your beautiful trade in. You actually get lied to by EVERYONE WHO WORKS AT THE DEALERSHIP- ONE WAY OR ANOTHER YOU'RE GOING TO ABSORB THE FULL STICKER PRICE AND THEN SOME- (YES, I AM AN A.S.E. CERTIFIED MASTER TECHNICIAN WHO ONE DAY HAD ENOUGH OF MY SERVICE MANAGER RIPPING OFF MY CUSTOMERS AND I WENT STRAIGHT INTO THE SALES DEPT AS A FORD TRUCK SPECIALIST AND NEVER TOOK A SINGKE CUSTOMER (known in the sales biz as an "UP") AND STRICTLY SOLD ROLLING CHASSIS TO FIRE DEPARTMENTS FOR AMBULANCES- UPSILD THE GEAR THAT MAKES IT AN AMBULANCE AND HAD A CREW OF 5 TEXHNICIANS I PERSONALLY HIRED TO PUT THEM TOGETHER AS WELL AS TOW TRUCKS AND OTHER HIGH-END COMMERCIAL TRUCKS. I WAS THE NUMBER 1 SALESMAN IN NOT ONLY MY STATE, BUT IN ALL 50 OF THEM. SO, YES I K OW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT WHEN IT COMES TO "CARS" HAPPY MARDI GRAS EVERYBODY!!
 
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