Jeep Patriot Forums banner
1 - 20 of 193 Posts

spacepoliceman

· Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello there, guys and gals.

We're nearing completion of a series of major performance upgrades, seeking to make this the fastest Jeep Patriot in the nation without the use of forced induction.

It's been a lot of headache, but in the end, I hope this Pat proves to be the most powerful and fuel efficient 4x4 SUV in all the land, excluding any Hybrid crap with Chinese batteries.

To begin with, the entire exhaust system has been completely overhauled, with a good amount of it having to be custom fabricated. As most Pat owners know, we don't have the benefit of a wide range of aftermarket parts. Thus, a compatible header was not available for my '10, 4x4 model.

Although, there's a shorty Mopar Header that fits a 2007-2009 Caliber/Compass/Patriot, it's for the FWD models only.(P/N# P5153566) This is actually what I purchased and intended on using. After my brother and I had to saw off part of the factory manifold to get it out, we were disappointed to find that my engine, although a similar 2.4L CVVT, did not have the same header bolt threading.

We wound up having to find a good weld shop that could cleanly cut the flange off the OEM Exhaust Manifold so it could be welded onto the aftermarket Mopar shorty header in a quality fashion. ("The Weld Shop" Pasadena, TX) Afterwards, I sent the header back to Jet-Hot to have it coated AGAIN. I gave them the sad story, so they re-coated it with the Jet-Hot 2000 coating at no extra charge and even paid for shipping.

Moore's Machine Shop created a custom header flange for us to tie-in the rest of the exhaust back to the downstream catalytic converter, which is being replaced with a Magnaflow Ceramic Spun High-Flow Cat. Keep in mind, the original exhaust manifold that my custom header replaced contained a highly restrictive, pot-belly style, pre-cat. Thus, there is no more pre-cat and the downstream cat has been upgraded.

I really didn't care to spend a ton of money on a cat-back exhaust, with all the high cost I spent customizing the exhaust, so I purchased the Dynomax which includes a muffler since it has pretty decent reviews.

Considering all the changes I planned for the exhaust, including the previously installed AEM Cold Air kit, I figured there still wouldn't be enough power for my liking throughout most of the RPM band. The fact of the matter is, the Patriot is a magnificent off-road capable vehicle when you have the FDII Off-Road package, is incredibly fuel efficient, but it can be dangerously slow at the worst possible times, like entering the freeway and merging with high speed traffic.

After some deliberation, my brother convinced me the most cost-effective way to give it more mid-range power was through a camshaft upgrade. I searched everywhere for aftermarket cams and found none. Thus, I stumbled upon Crower Performance in CA who agreed to do a Stage 1 regrind for $160 each, which is mild enough for the Pat's engine without requiring any valve train upgrades.(both intake and exhaust camshafts were done)

Finally, after getting all my parts together, I decided to find the best Mopar Performance shop in Houston, which after some research turned out to be FWD Performance. They are affordable, have a great reputation, not to mention they have around 30 yrs experience, a full range of diagnostics and Dyno Tuning. They also have more experience than anyone in this area working on smaller Mopar engines like the 2.0/2.4L Neon SRT-4, and the late model 2.4L Caliber SRT-4. I would not trust anyone else to do my engine work.

A couple of days ago, I dropped everything off with them, instead of trying to do some of it myself and be a cheapskate. This turned out to be a wise decision because Cindy at FWD Performance caught a problem with the flange we had welded on the header before it got mounted. It was just barely warped, but not noticeably and would've resulted in an exhaust leak had we bolted it up ourselves. Right now, they are installing the cams and should have the header issue corrected soon. When all is said and done, we will probably have the ECU flashed to advance the ignition timing by roughly 1 degree as well as a slightly richer Air/Fuel Ratio using a custom tune.

Granted, I've spent a lot more than I'd originally planned on this project, but justified the expense because I saved $5,400 off MSRP by purchasing my Patriot through the Armed Forces Exchange New Car Sales program while working in Iraq.

I also bought a ScanGauge II to monitor the temps, A/F ratio, and horsepower. Pretty soon we are going to see if/what the Pat's limitations are. Anyone who feels like making any performance predictions, or even disrespecting the Pat should speak up now, not after the fact. I expect the dust to settle by the end of next week at the very latest.

I will keep you guys posted as soon as it's done.

{-Stop the financial terrorists.. Crash JP Morgan, Buy SILVER!-}
 
this sounds like a great project. its great that you saved 5400 on the MSRP price when bought. I am wondering how much you have spent or think it will have cost by the time it is finished? Also, when they hook it up to the dyno, are you going to see what the max speed is or will they not do that? will you lose fuel econ?
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Here's what I spent on parts, which does include shipping charges:
____________________________________________________________
Mopar Tubular Exhaust Header: $325 (on eBay)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Header Flange Modification: $150
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Header Jet-Hot 2000 Coating: $200
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Custom Fab Exhaust Flange: $130 (included 2nd flange; spare)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Dynomax Cat-back Exhaust: $272
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Magnaflow Ceramic Spun Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter: $80
--------------------------------------------------------------------
O2 Sensor Extension Harnesses: $60 (for two)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
AEM Cold Air Kit: $255
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Intake & Exhaust Camshaft: $300
(not required if you pull your old ones out and send em in)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Stage 1 Intake & Exhaust Camshaft Regrind $350
--------------------------------------------------------------------
ScanGauge II Monitoring Tool: $160 (not required, but useful)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Next Level Performance chip/module: $175
--------------------------------------------------------------------
E3 Diamond Fire Spark Plugs: $40 (for four)
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Altogether, everything came out to around $2,500. Keep in mind, this does not include labor costs to install everything, which might run up to as much as $1000-1500 depending on where you go and where you live. Here in Texas, quality labor is not that bad.

One of the reasons I choose to use this method instead of forced induction, is that I won't have to deal with the maintenance headaches of Turbos or Superchargers, the nightmare scenarios that are 'sometimes' associated with them resulting in heavy expenses, and the fact that I can still use regular octane and don't have to worry so much as to who works on my vehicle.

As far as the answer to your last question, I expect my fuel economy to be about the same in the City (maybe slightly better), but to improve noticeably on the Highway. Why? Because I currently own an automatic and constantly notice I really have to put my foot down to get going, causing the Pat to work harder and higher in the RPM range, particularly on the freeway. By my logic, the easier and smoother the engine operates, the less spent fuel I would expect to be used. But, then again, I am no expert AND this is a CVT. I suppose we'll find out soon enough..

{-Stop the financial terrorists.. Crash JP Morgan, Buy SILVER!-}
 
oh wow.. i hope things turn out great for you. If they do I may end up doing the same thing. Also when its done what type of fuel will you be using? You mentioned Regular Octane. Is that the 87 fuel (the cheapest)? So you will also notice a little more power or acceleration when taking off from a stopping position correct?
 
Interesting project, I know I, and I bet a lot of others, are going to follow your thread to see how this all turns out.

My only suggestion would be to upgrade the front end too, while you're at it, and replace the crap OEM parts with Moog parts. Or at least have the Moog parts on hand for when you need to replace something, then just replace it all.
 
I wish you all the best but!! Patriot has the dynamics of a Brick --Its like pushing a barn door against a strong wind. CVT wont stand up to a lot of extra power ( thats why they didnt make a CVT Caliber SRT4.). You may want 4 wheel competition rotors & pads !!. Chips seldom work on computer controlled VVTi cars .As its a one off personal to you --who has the new software to re-flash the computer. Not sure if the 4x4 coupling will stand the pace!!
 
Are you going to have a chance to track it at all, I only ask because I think I might be the only person with a cvt that has 1/4 mile times (i'm also FDII) I would guess based on my experience that off the line it will still be slow'ish but probably pick up some good mph by the end of the track, I still can't seem to get the cvt to reall launch hard like a conventional automatic.
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
I agree with you tiptronic. I do not believe this CVT tranny will stand up to a 'Lot' of extra power, which is exactly why we simply stuck with a lot of small performance upgrades and hope they will add up to a moderate performance improvement without pushing the engine too hard.

Dan Crower, the 'King of cams' (Crower Peformance) did the work on the camshafts himself. We specifically requested a 'mild' regrind (Stage 1 ) and told him it was for a 2.4L CVT engine intended for daily driving.

I don't think anyone is expecting this Pat to be a powerplant, but it may very well wind up being the quickest Jeep Patriot here in the US. I do not plan to race my Pat since its primary use is daily driving with some lite off-roading.

Also note, I plan on going with a better fully synthetic CVT fluid as well as a radiator additive like Purple Ice or Red Line Water Wetter & Water mixture.

We have already upgraded the to full ceramic brake pads, and will soon have steel braided brake lines installed so we can go with a better performing brake fluid as this is my only other minor gripe with the Pat, the ABS.

{-Stop the financial terrorists.. Crash JP Morgan, Buy SILVER!-}
 
Sounds like a good package of upgrades. I'm very interested as to how it all turns out, specifically with the tuning. Cams can sometimes throw ECUs for a loop, but you said it's a stage 1, so it shouldn't be too lumpy. Good luck with it all!

On a sidenote, and not to hijack the thread, but does anyone know what ever happened with that other guy who put a turbo or blower on his pat and then got flamed right outta the joint?
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Sounds like a good package of upgrades. I'm very interested as to how it all turns out, specifically with the tuning. Cams can sometimes throw ECUs for a loop, but you said it's a stage 1, so it shouldn't be too lumpy. Good luck with it all!

On a sidenote, and not to hijack the thread, but does anyone know what ever happened with that other guy who put a turbo or blower on his pat and then got flamed right outta the joint?
Hey, thx. I appreciate the input.

I'm not quite sure if it was the same guy, but I do recall an air craft machinist installed a turbo from a PT Cruiser on a small displacement engine Jeep. He was nice enough to include a heck of a lot of documentation so that others could follow it.

To be honest, his work really got me interested in doing my own project, but was just way too much custom fabrication and hard to find parts from the Cruiser GT, expense, expertise, etc. for me to go that route. Hence, my alternative.

Now that I remember correctly, it was actually a Jeep TJ with a 2.4L:
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthread.php/5362-Turbocharged-2.4L-Jeep-TJ-for-me!!!

{-Stop the financial terrorists.. Crash JP Morgan, Buy SILVER!-}
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Are you going to have a chance to track it at all, I only ask because I think I might be the only person with a cvt that has 1/4 mile times (i'm also FDII) I would guess based on my experience that off the line it will still be slow'ish but probably pick up some good mph by the end of the track, I still can't seem to get the cvt to reall launch hard like a conventional automatic.
Hey there, Tyler.

Sure thing, I'll go ahead and track it to get a 1/4 mile time if you like.

{-Stop the financial terrorists.. Crash JP Morgan, Buy SILVER!-}
 
That would be great if you could track it, from my testing away from the track since I raced it (2 years ago) i've found that launching is "quicker" withold holding the brake down and just mashing the gas from a stop, although i can't prove it scientifically.

If I was to venture a guess on you patriot i'd say a 16.2@87mph could be doable with the cvt, I think it all comes down the the sluggish launch, because once going the patriot really moves (relatively speaking of course)
 
When I was younger I had a Mustang, and my friend had a Nova, both with autos, and we added line locks. Although with the Patriot I'm not sure that would work, as you'd have to add those to the rear brakes, not the front as we did with rear wheel drive vehicles.

The Nova had a 427 and my Mustang had a 429 Shelby. They both would run mid to high 9's in the 1/4 mile.

Line locks allow you to keep the brakes on the non-drive wheels, so the drive wheels can spin, then you let off the switch for the line locks and go.

You still cannot come off the line at too high of RPMs cause if you do you'll get too much burn out on the line and lose time. I think I usually came off the line around 2500 RPMs then nailed it as I let off the line locks.
 
OMG!!! is a great project!! good luck and don´t forget post your updates!!
 
Man! I could probably just go for a few of those (regrinding and exhaust). Im exited to hear the results.
 
When I was younger I had a Mustang, and my friend had a Nova, both with autos, and we added line locks. Although with the Patriot I'm not sure that would work, as you'd have to add those to the rear brakes, not the front as we did with rear wheel drive vehicles.

The Nova had a 427 and my Mustang had a 429 Shelby. They both would run mid to high 9's in the 1/4 mile.

Line locks allow you to keep the brakes on the non-drive wheels, so the drive wheels can spin, then you let off the switch for the line locks and go.

You still cannot come off the line at too high of RPMs cause if you do you'll get too much burn out on the line and lose time. I think I usually came off the line around 2500 RPMs then nailed it as I let off the line locks.
On a FWD car you can just use the parking brake. But, since the Patriot is designed NOT to spin, you would need to defeat the TCS. On a 2x4 you cant turn it all the way off. Even pulling the fuse for the ABS wont stop the computer from cutting power to the engine if it detects wheelspin. Pull the rear driveshaft off the 4x4 and turn ESP full off, use the parking brake to set the rear wheels, you might get it to launch old school style. Sounds like alot of crap to go through. Face it, 4x4's are made for traction and slow speed manuvering. 20% chance he blows the CVT in the first 5 passes at the strip. There's alot of potential in the motor, but the trans is NOT designed for high performance.
 
1 - 20 of 193 Posts