How I Installed
It looks great and works even better! I used the PEAK brand 1200 watt inverter with the remote setup, low voltage shut off, over heating shut off *etc. It came with the inverter, remote area set up, and some cable. The positive wasn't near long *enough, so I bought 10ft of 4ga wire, two eyelets, an 80 amp in-line fuse(recommended by a local audio/everything else vehicles shop) and a raptor wire connector/ fuse holder.*
The remote feature is what made this project a breeze. it is a remote area setup that plugs into one of the outlets on the inverter, and it has something like a telephone wire that controls the on/off function. ( toggle switch on inverter Is set to off, but the remote switch bypasses that- making it work great.)*
1) I removed the center console(about 4 screws- 2 inside the bottom of the center console -2 back screws - near the rear cup holders- the other two weren't holding.) shifting area was not removed, basically from cup holders to cup holders. Raise the parking brake and slide console back, then lift the backend towards the dash to maneuver around the parking brake. Becareful and remember there is wiring there to be undone.*
2) I ran the power cable from the battery(not connected yet) through the firewall, Under the plastic of the shifting area( where your right leg would be when driving- U.S. Driving anyway) and out to where the console should be.*
3) I connected my ground to the seat beat receiver bolt( back bolt)
4) take the remote switch, and outline it on poster board. I used the back of a notebook/ legal pad. Paper is too flimsy. Cut it out exactly. Place the outline over the factory pre-existing hole(at least that's what I did) take a pencil and outline on the console exactly. Make sure it is level and centered.*Make sure you can easily access the outlets with the arm rest down.
5)THIS NEXT BIT TAKES TIME. PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE HERE. Sorry about the all caps but it's best for safety and cosmetic reasons.*( NOTE: All work was done to the inside of the lines, to avoid cutting too much and having gaps. Take a drill with a smaller- not tiny - drill bit. 4mm? You be the judge of this. Drill holes at the inside of the four corners(this will give you nice rounded edges. with a box cutter and a new blade, begin to score the the lines. Essentially you will connect the holes. Take your time and remove the entire area so the remote outlet will fit. I had about a centimeter(maybe a little less) of plastic above the factory hole. Addition trimming may be necessary, but do a little at a time.
6) Place the remote switch in its place- make sure it is right side up- LOL. With small screws, screw the remote outlet to the console. Don't over tighten because this is plastic and will easily strip out. Take the console back to the truck.
7) My inverter is under the passenger seat, so with the seat forward place your inverter (just to have a visual) Where the carpet comes down to concave to flooring cut a two inch opening with the box cutter. Run the power cable, ground, and combo wire from the remote outlet down the opening (where console would be) to the opening that you cut. A wire runner could be useful (or if you don't have one a clothes hanger could suffice.) Pull these out next to the inverter.
8) Trim the end of the cable enclosing on the power wire and place the eyelet on it and clamp it down. Attach power and negative to inverter. Attach telephone like control cable and the outlet cable.(other end of inverter) screw down inverter or leave sitting. Your choice.
9) Reattach the the wires underneath the center console, pull all excess wire back and zip tie it. There is room for the extra wire under the console. (between the storage area of the console and the very front.
10) Reseat the center console- just the opposite of getting it off. start in the up position and then move down. Don't force it. it has alignment pins, so watch for those. Re-screw it down.
11) At the battery. Trim the end of your power wire and attach the other eyelet. about 7-9 inches from the eyelet cut and attach the in-line fuse( if you need help, pm me- but it is fairly easy to figure out even for the non-handy.) If you are using 4ga wire- your in-line fuse may have adapter rings for it to be able to receive 8ga wire. So remove that if necessary.
12) Attach to the battery, apply your wire shield, and zip tie into place.
My supply list:
1) 1200 watt PEAK power inverter with remote outlet $139.99 - Advanced Auto Parts
2) 4 ga wire -10ft- $ 17.50 - Local audio supplier
3) 2 eyelets for 4ga wire - $0.50 - Local audio supplier
4) Fuse and fuse holder - $15.00 - Local Audio Supplier
5) Wire shield - $3.00 - Local Audio Supplier
My Tools:
1) drill- small bit and 1/4 bit
2) socket set
3) wire puller/ clothes hanger
4) wire stripper and cutter - box cutter if careful, also used for clamping eyelets.
5) box cutter
6) allen wrench- for fuse holder
7) Torque bit / star bit - center console ( I could not get a drill in the center console- used screw driver with interchangeable tips)
8) Flash light
9) Pencil
Time: about 2-3 hours
If anyone has any questions feel free to pm me or reply here. Thanks!!!
