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Front End rebuild Help!

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rarichard

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Same old story, ball joints, most likely tie rod ends shot, and want to rebuild all the front end components. I would have the ability to do this myself, and want to get this done for as cheap as possible while replacing with the best possible parts. It's an 07 Limited that clunks and rattles all over the front end and even has brief lag between steering input and response. I want to do the whole shebang but don't know where to get parts for the cheapest prices. And also, do you need to order bushings seperately when you order ball joints from say MOOG.

Any place to order all the parts needed from the same source. Ball joints, tie rod ends, even sway bar bushings I would replace, and what are the vertical bars that have bushings on each end? Any help is appreciated.
 
#4 · (Edited)
No, Moog just has the ball joints and tie-rod ends. No one is making the front control arm bushings yet for the Caliber/Compass/Patriot. Try finding a source selling the Mevotech control arms. They should be better then OEM. www.rockauto.com does sell them, but if you search google with the part numbers from rockauto, you'll probably find them cheaper.

EDIT: I suspect the Mitsubishi Lancer uses a similar control arm, and there are replacement bushings available for them (check the 2002-2005 model years). You may want to see if you can get a set from a local store, that way if they aren't the same, you can return them.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
So if you buy a moog ball joint, are you just expected to re-use the old bushings? I really would like to upgrade while I'm replacing so I don't have to do it again in another 2 years, but obviously a whole new LCA has all new bushings, just inferior ball joints compared to Moog.
 
#6 ·
rarichard said:
So if you buy a moog ball joint, are you just expected to re-use the old bushings?
Click to expand...
At the moment, Yes. You could try contacting Moog and see if they plan on making replacement bushings.

rarichard said:
I really would like to upgrade while I'm replacing so I don't have to do it again in another 2 years, but obviously a whole new LCA has all new bushings, just inferior ball joints compared to Moog.
Click to expand...
The Mevotech ball joints should be better quality then OEM and comparable to Moog, and I'm pretty sure they carry a lifetime warranty, so at least if they do go bad again you won't have to pay again.
 
#7 ·
front end..

I just had my front end re-done, i wanted to do the project myself but have been really busy lately that i just had my local trusted (for 20 years) mechanic do the job. They replaced the garbage jeep components with replacement MOOG ball joints and tie-rod ends, no bushings. I am very happy with the replacement but when the jeep was in the shop they noticed that a part in the rear end was going bad too. (cant recall what the part was) That will eventually have to be replaced too. I only had a front end alignment done with the work done because my mechanic said that with the bad part in the rear a 4 wheel alignment wouldnt be true over time and that i will eventually have to get that replaced when i start to see uneven tire wear?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Mind me asking what the mechanic charged. I'm on Rockauto right now ordering everything up. I figure with a 6 hour window on a weekend, and with air tools, I can hopefully replace the front end completely with tie rods, LCA's, End links, and pads and rotors to get rid of the Rusted junk after 50k miles. I also plan on doing the spindle lock, washer, pin, replacement kit cause of all the rust build up. If all goes well, I'll easily tackle the rear components and replace with Moog stuff too. I got under there again the other day and it really doesn't have too many bolts to undue, but as always, it how long each of them takes. I figure for like $350, I can have a new again ride in my wifes DD.
 
#9 ·
mech. charge.

my mechanic charged me $550 US for both front ball joints and tie rods, with the labor. yeah i could have done it myself if i was to give up a saturday but lately it seems like i dont have much time for anything but my wife and soon to be first child so i just figured it better to send her into the shop, being a trusted family mechanic. Plus i figure it helps them out too, my way to boost the economy.
 
#10 · (Edited)
The LCA's are only three bolts total, so if you work quick, I could see getting it all done in 6 hours. Rent a pickle fork set from Advance Auto for the tie-rod ends, it'll seriously speed up the removal times (plus it's free, you pay for the tool set, then get your money back upon return). Before you remove the tie-rod ends though, make sure the steering wheel is straight, put a mark on the steering knuckle near where the tie-rod end attaches and take a few measurements from the mark to a solid frame point and write them down. Then when you re-assemble, spin the tie-rods back on and hold them tight in the knuckle and re-measure. Some like to count turns too (number of turns to take them off, then the same number of turns to put back on). This will at least get your toe-in setting very close to the original before alignment. When taking the tie-rods ends off and on, make sure to hold the steering racks threaded rod tight. If you let it spin, you can tear the steering rack dust boot. I usually use a big set of vise-grips clamped on and resting against something (Frame, LCA or even the half-shaft) to hold it from spinning.
 
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