Is the Mopar factory hitch a class I or a class II hitch? Can't find the information on Mopar's website... 
Simple question about the Mopar hitch
R.E.M.
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It is actually a Class 2 hitch according to the Mopar Parts store I visited in person. A good way to tell is by the drawbar and receiver measurements. A Class 2 is a true receiver hitch with a 1.25" square receiver tube (the Mopar OEM). The Class 3 will have a 2" square receiver tube minimum. Then up from there to Class 4 or whatever. Some people consider the Class 3 Curt hitch to be overkill for the Patriot, but for just a couple dollars more you get a 2" receiver which counters any twisting moment about the receiver better than a 1.25" receiver Class 2, plus you get an extra mounting bolt.
The Patriot can pull way more than it will ever be able to stop, anyway.
The Patriot can pull way more than it will ever be able to stop, anyway.
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Thanks for the information! I'm used to class 3+ hitch. It's the first time I actually have a 1.25" receiver, but I was wondering if the 2000lbs towing limit of the Pat is the engine/braking limit or the factory hitch limit (if it was a class I hitch).
I guess, like you said, stoping is the problem when it comes to heavier trailers. I'll try to stick under 2000 lbs :smiley_thumbs_up:
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REM,
I have never seen an installed Mopar hitch. Could you post up some pics? And who does the installations?
I have never seen an installed Mopar hitch. Could you post up some pics? And who does the installations?
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141 Posts
Sure, here you go, with my Bully LED hitch step attached to it :
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Notice on the second picture where the hitch actually stops. In my opinion, it's the only advantage of the OEM hitch : it doesn't affect departure angle, because the bumper needs to be cutted when installing the hitch (my dealer installed it for free when I bought the Pat). Look in the 4th picture how far is the locking pin. It's completely under the bumper. It's really a PITA to get there.
There's 3 bolts on each sides. On the last picture you only can only see 2 of them, because the last one is too close to the bumper and I can't get there with my camera without jacking the Pat.
If I had to do it again, I'm really not sure if I would choose the OEM hitch. I'm used to work with 2" hitch, and it's really hard to find accessories for the 1.25" receiver. Best would be a 2" receiver that sits exactly like the OEM one. I know someone on this forum did de modification, but I personnaly don't want to start this kind of project. For now this hitch does the job, but be sure that if I need to do a little bit more towing than what I'm doing right now, I'll switch for something like the Curt hitch.
Notice on the second picture where the hitch actually stops. In my opinion, it's the only advantage of the OEM hitch : it doesn't affect departure angle, because the bumper needs to be cutted when installing the hitch (my dealer installed it for free when I bought the Pat). Look in the 4th picture how far is the locking pin. It's completely under the bumper. It's really a PITA to get there.
There's 3 bolts on each sides. On the last picture you only can only see 2 of them, because the last one is too close to the bumper and I can't get there with my camera without jacking the Pat.
If I had to do it again, I'm really not sure if I would choose the OEM hitch. I'm used to work with 2" hitch, and it's really hard to find accessories for the 1.25" receiver. Best would be a 2" receiver that sits exactly like the OEM one. I know someone on this forum did de modification, but I personnaly don't want to start this kind of project. For now this hitch does the job, but be sure that if I need to do a little bit more towing than what I'm doing right now, I'll switch for something like the Curt hitch.
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REM put up good pics. If you want to see one in person let me know. I installed the Mopar one on mine. I didn't want to give up the departure angle with the aftermarket ones.
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Looks like a pretty clean install, thanks for the pics. The hitch pin location was one of my major concerns all along as well, with the OEM. I do like the way the cutout has had edging added, did you do that or the dealer? Also, now I see that the OEM hitch has a straight drawbar from frame rail to frame rail, but it is lighter tubing, of course, than the Curt 3. If it all works for you, go with it. I've towed boats, quads, and 1800# of sand with a 1.25" receiver hitch many times.Sure, here you go, with my Bully LED hitch step attached to it :
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Notice on the second picture where the hitch actually stops. In my opinion, it's the only advantage of the OEM hitch : it doesn't affect departure angle, because the bumper needs to be cutted when installing the hitch (my dealer installed it for free when I bought the Pat). Look in the 4th picture how far is the locking pin. It's completely under the bumper. It's really a PITA to get there.
There's 3 bolts on each sides. On the last picture you only can only see 2 of them, because the last one is too close to the bumper and I can't get there with my camera without jacking the Pat.
If I had to do it again, I'm really not sure if I would choose the OEM hitch. I'm used to work with 2" hitch, and it's really hard to find accessories for the 1.25" receiver. Best would be a 2" receiver that sits exactly like the OEM one. I know someone on this forum did de modification, but I personnaly don't want to start this kind of project. For now this hitch does the job, but be sure that if I need to do a little bit more towing than what I'm doing right now, I'll switch for something like the Curt hitch.
BTW, your 4th pic shows an unused mounting tab on the far side of the drawbar, what's up with that?
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Dealer added this when installing. I'm not sure if the edging comes in when you order the hitch. I personnaly didn't had to worry about it since the dealer took care of everything, but that could be a good point to check out.
I'm not afraid for something like trailers or boat, because the tongue weigth isn't that much (and even if it is with like a full trailer of sand, you usually don't have a long distance to travel). I'm more thinking about a pop-up camper or a small travel trailer, that could use some weigth distribution bar to try to level up the Pat. The OEM rear suspension doesn't seem very firm, and thanks I do have a 4x4, because I've already towed a full trailer of wood, and I was feeling that the front wheels didn't had the same traction as when unloaded. Like I said, I didn't had a long way to travel, so I drove slowly keeping my distances, and everything was fine. But when it comes to a travel trailer, since you're doing a lot of road, you're better to have a more stable and leveled setup. And correct me if I'm wrong, but I've never seen a ball mount (guess it's the right term, I don't know how it's called in english) that can receive weight distribution bar and that fits in a 1.25" receiver.
That's the tab that receives the flat 4pin connector for the trailer light. That's another thing with the OEM wiring. You see how far it is from the receiver? I first bought a wiring extension, but after I just removed the wire from the tab, and I found out that there was a lot of free wire hanging down under the bumper. So now my wiring is rolled up around the hitch, under the bumper (for my LED bully step), and when needed, I can unroll it and plug in to almost any trailer without the wire extension.
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Regarding wiring, that was my next question. How much of it was done at the factory and how much did the dealer do?
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It was a pretty standard installation. My Pat wasn't a special order. It was on the lot, so everything I asked special the added it after (they needed to clear their inventary so badly that instead of making a special order with only the packages I wanted, they took the first one that was "almost" like the one I wanted, and they added Mopar's accessories to complete it).
So I guess the dealer added almost everything I wanted, including the wiring kit. The guy also told me that the computer needed to be updated to let the Jeep know that a wiring kit had been added (like when you add fog lights). Not sure if it's true or not, but still! I'm very satisfied with my dealer's job! Everything is nice and clean!
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REM and UA,
I could have gone either way with the wiring, OEM or Curt. The OEM instructions have you drilling a 1.5" hole in the bottom of the spare tire well. REM, did that happen on yours? If so, you should be able to see a rather large rubber boot sticking out of the bottom of the well from the outside. I have never seen the OEM kit actually installed. Would like to know if the true factory wiring is the same way.
I could have gone either way with the wiring, OEM or Curt. The OEM instructions have you drilling a 1.5" hole in the bottom of the spare tire well. REM, did that happen on yours? If so, you should be able to see a rather large rubber boot sticking out of the bottom of the well from the outside. I have never seen the OEM kit actually installed. Would like to know if the true factory wiring is the same way.
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I also have the Mopar hitch. Very straight forward install. Only problem I had was the clearance for a couple of the bolts, not a lot of room for a ratchet in there. The cut out out was very easy to do and looks factory as far as I am concerned. The molding for the cutout came with the hitch kit. I would recommend installing the wiring harness before installing the hitch. Lesson learned for me, I did it backwards. I did not have to drill any holes for the wiring harness. There were rubber grommets already in place behind the light buckets.
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In my case I think the dealer followed all the instructions, cause there's a hole in the bottom of the spare tire from which goes out the wire. But they did a really great job of sealing it. I've took a look at it this weekend and really think I'll never have problem with water infiltration.
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Good Idea!
This is a great site, not only for Patriot information, but our members offer a variety of other information as well. If you are interested in becomming a "Site Supporter" click the following link it doesn't cost very much only $15 or $20 and helps keep the site going. http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2872
Our Site Admin guys are working on updating the site with new software and every little bit helps.
This is a great site, not only for Patriot information, but our members offer a variety of other information as well. If you are interested in becomming a "Site Supporter" click the following link it doesn't cost very much only $15 or $20 and helps keep the site going. http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2872
Our Site Admin guys are working on updating the site with new software and every little bit helps.
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I'm sure they did an excellent job. I was just trying to find out if the factory installed wiring harness was any different than the dealer OEM add.
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