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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I have another technique if you're still struggling...
Use your screwdriver or pry bar to twist the bush so it alignes with the top hole... Now drop a short (cut down to about 1/2") 14mm bolt (or a bar or small socket etc..) through the top hole so it drops into the bush ans thus holding it in place.
Next take your bolt (lubricated) and tap it through from the underside... When its about half way through the bush hit it hard! So it goes all the way through and drives out your locating piece in the process... Nut on and voilĂ ....
I'm still struggling. Another 2 mm I can drive it home but I'm missing my third set up hands. Between the tie rod, sway bay links, knuckle and what not there little room to swing it out and back in based on your illustration. Videos I've watched too. I don't understand how something so simple is creating this much frustration. I'll have to try your next suggestion. Thanks again.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I got my right control arm in. i ended up placing the front bushing in its home. Then finished the back by prying it with some grace and finished sliding the bolt up through.

Then while greasing my ball joint, the zerc snapped off! How.. Why me haha

I'll finish doing my left sway bar bushing. Then I'm making an appointment somewhere to do the left control arm and clean up whatever mess i made.

Until I get a garage with a lift, I'm done.
 
I got my right control arm in. i ended up placing the front bushing in its home. Then finished the back by prying it with some grace and finished sliding the bolt up through.

Then while greasing my ball joint, the zerc snapped off! How.. Why me haha

I'll finish doing my left sway bar bushing. Then I'm making an appointment somewhere to do the left control arm and clean up whatever mess i made.

Until I get a garage with a lift, I'm done.
Ahh well it wasn't for lack of trying!
Good effort 👍
I have ramps so I imagine it is much easier than on a jack.
 
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Just an update. I just finished replacing the control arm on the other side and it went much smoother. It was in slightly better shape than the driver side but still made a lot of noise. I seriously need an alignment now though as to go straight, I need to keep my wheel turned 1/8 turn to the right lol.

Edit. I also plan on hitting the axle tomorrow before I do the alignment.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
While in the process of replacing my axles, I noticed the balls joints on both arms were already worn after 14k miles. I warrantied and waiting for them tomorrow via Fedex. I'm sure with everything out of the way, it will be a smoother experience putting the new ones in.
 
Only 14k miles? WOW! What brand are they?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Only 14k miles? WOW! What brand are they?
R series Moog. I been chasing a loose sounding feeling when i hit bumps. It passed PA inspection and been to an alignment shop. Took it to another shop which was useless. No one can find anything wrong.

I been doing my axles and brakes the past couple weeks slowly lol When i dropped the arm out of the knuckle, i heard that clunky grinding sound. I could move the ball joint around with my pinky finger and it sounded awful. I know that's what I was hearing amplified up through the vehicle. I put them on August of last year. Mind blown!

I know it's not a fancy high end car, but something wasn't sounding right. All I heard was, its a Jeep. I'm going to have to find another garage, but it's slim pickins around here. I'll drive up to Erie if I have to.
 
With all of the work I've done to the front of mine these last few months, I've had the knuckles separated from the ball joints a few times. The joints do seem to move around quite easily, but they don't make any noise. I've also had mine in to a few shops looking for the cause of my front end shakes and nobody can find it. Maybe I'll replace my control arms too. They're cheap and easy enough, and at this point, why not. I've replaced everything else except the inner tie rod ends and the struts at this point.

Speaking of Erie, I've been thinking of heading down to Presque Isle soon... maybe make a weekend trip out of it.
 
Only 14k miles? WOW! What brand are they?
"R series Moog. "

That's Moog's "value line" = cheap junk. Repeating what I said elsewhere, the pro mechanics I follow on other sites have a consensus that the aftermarket parts quality is deplorable. Once dependable names like Moog, Timken, etc. can no longer be trusted for quality.

To keep my Karma aligned, I'm a humble DIY shadetree mechanic with only moderate skills and experience. I continue learning new stuff going into old age. I'm not passing judgement, being condescending, and am trying to not be hypocritical.

At 66 years old and a bit of experience maintaining vehicles and agriculture equipment at my workplace, I can say that it is VERY difficult to judge the quality of aftermarket parts and in the past year or two, I have swayed towards the concept of "pay once, cry once" (absurd high OEM parts cost). But, not everything - I use aftermarket oil filters, brake components, etc..

Take care guys. It's good that we share experiences here, both good and bad. Wish me luck replacing my rear sway bar bushings and end links today!!!!!!!!
 
"R series Moog. "

That's Moog's "value line" = cheap junk. Repeating what I said elsewhere, the pro mechanics I follow on other sites have a consensus that the aftermarket parts quality is deplorable. Once dependable names like Moog, Timken, etc. can no longer be trusted for quality.

To keep my Karma aligned, I'm a humble DIY shadetree mechanic with only moderate skills and experience. I continue learning new stuff going into old age. I'm not passing judgement, being condescending, and am trying to not be hypocritical.

At 66 years old and a bit of experience maintaining vehicles and agriculture equipment at my workplace, I can say that it is VERY difficult to judge the quality of aftermarket parts and in the past year or two, I have swayed towards the concept of "pay once, cry once" (absurd high OEM parts cost). But, not everything - I use aftermarket oil filters, brake components, etc..

Take care guys. It's good that we share experiences here, both good and bad. Wish me luck replacing my rear sway bar bushings and end links today!!!!!!!!
Yeahhh, I have two Moog control arms in the front and they work great. I have had no issues with them. I replaced a rear whee bearing with a moog and within a few months, it was bad. I finished re-replacing it yesterday. However, the first time I replaced it, I had to use 30k pounds on a hydraulic press to get it free of rust and absolutely destroyed the back plate in the process. Yesterday, I took the easier route and installed an all new ebrake/back plate which was significantly faster.

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this was yesterday in my driveway


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This was the first replacement at the shop. Its nice being able to rent a lift for cheap.
 
Its nice being able to rent a lift for cheap.
I REALLY miss the auto hobby shop on base. It's an auto shop on Navy bases, at least the 4 I've been stationed on. $2 a day and you have access to lifts, pits, and any tool you could possibly need. And if you needed help, there were a few master mechanics roaming around to give help/advice.
 
I REALLY miss the auto hobby shop on base. It's an auto shop on Navy bases, at least the 4 I've been stationed on. $2 a day and you have access to lifts, pits, and any tool you could possibly need. And if you needed help, there were a few master mechanics roaming around to give help/advice.
Yup. I have 12 years in (some active, currently reserves). It's now $5 an hour but it makes working on the car so much easier lol. If I wasn't at the shop the first time, there's no way I would have been able to get the bearing out. They have a hydraulic press there which is super handy. Eventually, I want to invest in a small home lift and do a complete classic restoration but I'm not sure what I would want to do yet. All I know is a lift would make things much much easier.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Now tighten the rear bush nut and bolt, however leave the front bush bolt finger tight until the car is on the ground and suspension settled to normal ride height. (Roll car forward and backward a few feet)
I tried that this time around and holy crap I couldn't get enough leverage to get the wrench to click.

That's Moog's "value line" = cheap junk.
Thanks. I definitely didn't notice. I probably switched RK and CK around.

I REALLY miss the auto hobby shop on base.
I remember that on FE Warren AFB a couple decades ago. I never took advantage of it. Honestly, I was clueless when it came to vehicle maintenance lol I learned the hard way when my timing belt broke a few years later.
 
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