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Discussion starter · #21 ·
@freelantz,
Curious if you have had any problems again recently. Just came across the TBS. I have had my front map light leak (more like a waterfall) only four times. I usually have a jacket/napkins (maybe I should keep a cup in the car) to catch the waterfall when there is a large downpour. Since my warranty is out, I will definitely try to take your advice and see if this will be a fix. Was yours an issue with the front map light above the dashboard? Thanks!
Yes, the water would come in through the map light direction above the dash and a couple times, through the light in the rear cargo area also. I ran some weedeater line through those tubes again once since the night I made this thread, and haven't seen any water inside again yet.:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
DUDE!!! You are a genius! I got a cold shower from my "Front Dome Light Shower Group" the other day during the torrential rains we are getting lately. I mean, it was pouring out of the headliner in cups, not drips. I figured, what a PIA now have to take to dealer for another "fix". But I tried the weed wacker line reaming the drain tubes and viola!, no more leaks! No PIA trip to dealer! Cost $0! Thanks, thanks, thanks for the idea man! :smiley_thumbs_up:
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
DUDE!!! You are a genius! I got a cold shower from my "Front Dome Light Shower Group" the other day during the torrential rains we are getting lately. I mean, it was pouring out of the headliner in cups, not drips. I figured, what a PIA now have to take to dealer for another "fix". But I tried the weed wacker line reaming the drain tubes and viola!, no more leaks! No PIA trip to dealer! Cost $0! Thanks, thanks, thanks for the idea man! :smiley_thumbs_up:
Happy to be of assistance and I want to remind everyone, this has to be done periodically to ensure no more leaks. It's not a permanent fix but it's a heck of a lot easier for me than having my Jeep in a dealership service bay for a week and out of commission (since it's my work car) and having to pay who knows how much to have it fixed (since I'm out of warranty) with no guarantee it won't still happen again!
 
I had a similar problem it's been back to manfredi jeep in staten island 4x now the warrantee is over I'm having the problem again just removed the dome light to find blue shop towels shoved between the headliner and sunroof I have no idea why companies would do such things any how I'm going to try this fix thanks
 
I had a similar problem it's been back to manfredi jeep in staten island 4x now the warrantee is over I'm having the problem again just removed the dome light to find blue shop towels shoved between the headliner and sunroof I have no idea why companies would do such things any how I'm going to try this fix thanks
I'm sorry you had such a bad experience. Did you try the fix? Did it work? If you need to get me involved - let me know by PM.
 
Yes, they do stop up again if you're not careful.

Ultimately the new TSB is the only permanent fix (we hope) for this, but what I posted at least is a temporary solution if nothing else. Since my Patriot is out of warranty I haven't decided if I want to pay a dealer to do the TSB when I can just keep checking periodically to make sure those tubes are unclogged myself.
wow I have NEVER paid(even with vehicles no longer under warranty) for a dealer to actually do a TSB...they just do it to make it right...as a matter of fact on my wifes Ford Freestyle the brakes were going bad at what I thought was way too early....we all know brakes are normally not a covered item...BUT i looked around found a TSB on premature rotor warping on the model and year of the Freestyle she had...they WERE in the process of gouging me around $400-500 when i showed them the TSB and then they fixed it for FREE....

I was always under the impression that TSB's were basically the dealership/manufacturers way of saying...oops we messed this up...without really issuing a full recall for the problem....of they dropped the ball on this know its a problem then tried to get ME to pay to fix their TSB(aka a known screw up) id #1 be Irate and #2 I probably never would buy anything from them again....I could see listing the fix for people that want to do it themselves or didnt want to have their vehicle to the dealership for downtime because they needed it...or to work till they could get it to the dealer...but the dealer should fix TSB's for free...

id say ive had dealers fix at least 10 TSB items in the last 15 years or so and I never owned them a dime when I asked for it to be fixed/taken care of
 
I had a similar problem it's been back to manfredi jeep in staten island 4x now the warrantee is over I'm having the problem again just removed the dome light to find blue shop towels shoved between the headliner and sunroof I have no idea why companies would do such things any how I'm going to try this fix thanks
A class action lawsuit has been filed against Chrysler with regard to the widespread sunroof leak problems:

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103133
 
I opened up the column as shown in the original post, and sure enough, a right angle kink. It was clearly installed that way at the factory because it is spray-foamed in place in the headliner, and secured to a clip in the column. Really poor design. I cut the tape from the connector, and zip tied the kinked section into the clip, to keep it straight.

I don't know where the drain tube runs on the drivers side but it's not in the front windshield column. I blew it out with an infant squeeze bulb because it was totally stopped up. Now it drains, but kind of slowly.

Note the right angle at the top of the thin tube.The drain tube is spray foamed in the headliner: moved the kink into the clip: This is a rubber infant syringe bulb. I used it to blast water into the drain holes in the sunroof.

Quite sure that the smaller rubber tube inside the Passenger side column (kinked and runs into the roof foam) is for the rear washer fluid connection. Unsure if the kink is purposeful or not, it might be to reduce drain back of the fluid, I still straighten out ours.

The two front drain hole openings are at the front corners of the inner sunroof's plastic frame. The drain tubes connected to these are the larger corrugated tubes inside the left and right windshield columns. Using stiff plastic weed-wacker thread and/or the baby syringe from the top corners are the best ways to clear these. Because the drain tubes are corrugated the thread end can snag-up so try rotating it as you go. The front drain tubes empty somewhere behind the front wheel wells. Fill the baby syringe with water then squirt it through the holes till you see water on the ground to insure that you cleared out the tubes.

Be sure to keep the whole inner sunroof area clean of any debris. Any junk inside there will eventually clog up the drain holes. Even watch for excess gobs of grease rolling around that could cause clugging.

If any of the black frame parts directly under the sunroof edges are damaged or cracked this could allow leaking even if the drains are open. In these cases the cracks must be sealed or the plastic parts replaced.

The two rear drains empty out at the upper corners on the rear hatch opening. (These look like large gromments in each corner.) To clear the rear drains run the plastic thread in from the rear drain openings until you see it coming out inside the sunroof opening. You might also use the baby syringe here too. This method might push debris back up into the sunroof area so another precaution would be to clean out the whole inner sunroof area using an air gun. (But before using an air gun you may want to lay a sheet over the seats and things cause you could make quite a mess.)
 
The two rear drains empty out at the upper corners on the rear hatch opening. (These look like large gromments in each corner.) To clear the rear drains run the plastic thread in from the rear drain openings until you see it coming out inside the sunroof opening.
:notworthy: Hey, thanks man, I have never been able to figure out where the rear drains drained to. I have used the weed-wacker line method with great success. Does anyone know why the weed-wacker line won't go all the way out the bottom when snaking the front drains? Mine goes in several feet then hits a dead end no matter how much I twist and turn it. Just wondering if there is a right angle or something down there?
 
The two drains DO go down the front columns. Another thing that you can use is that springy cable that you have above windows to hold net curtaining up. I found though, that to be sure it's probably worthwhile putting a blob of silicone on the end in case the wire inner scratches through the drain-pipe.
One of the pipes that I had to have replaced was forced during manufacture through such a tight angle that it was obvious that one day it would block up.
It's a shame that it's such a long-winded faff-on with removing lining etc to sort this out.
 
:notworthy: Does anyone know why the weed-wacker line won't go all the way out the bottom when snaking the front drains? Mine goes in several feet then hits a dead end no matter how much I twist and turn it. Just wondering if there is a right angle or something down there?

They might be exiting close to an internal wall or possible there's some type of fitting on the opposite end. I've never got the thread to go any further either. Just verify that the length of the thread that freely enters one side matches almost exactly the length that goes into the other. Use a plastic syringe with water to verify that you get water on the ground from each side.
 
the smaller tube IS for the rear washer, dont matter if it is kinked. the bigger tube that looks like a wire loom is not a protective covering for a smaller tube, I think it would be difficult to kink it. the problem lies at the end it has some kind of one way outlet if you feel behind the strut tower on the firewall you will feel it. I have used .80 weed eater line it will not go thru the end of it you will have to blow it out. I am thinking about just sticking an awl thru the damn thing. the last time I cleaned it I found a crape myrtle bud in it. of course IF we keep the sunroof itself from leaking then its a moot point. there are 4 adjustment screws on it I cant seem to get it adjusted right to not leak. I can see it dripping in the front corners. I am thinking about putting a strip of weatherseal on it.
 
Leak saved me money

I just bought a 2010 Patriot and bargained another $400 off the sale price. On the test drive the water started flowing out of the front light. The rest of the car is great and is a Limited edition with 50k, no water stains,smells etc... I am not scared to work on it :) and have fixed the problem. Time will tell............


Thank you VERY,very much guys for this fix! And the bargaining chip :)
I will become a frequent visitor to another car forum:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
Hi chopr147, Welcome to the forum. This forum has been super helpful for my 2009 POS Patriot considering all of the problems that it has had. I hope you have fewer problems than I did.

I find that my Patriot will stay dry for about 6 months after a good roto-router job on the drains with the weed-wacker line. A good hard rain storm will periodically trigger the dome light shower to remind me what a POS this car is.
 
Where do the front drains come out? I've been chasing my leak for the better part of the year. hopefully I can solve this problem before something electrical in the path of the water gets damaged...
 
Where do the front drains come out? I've been chasing my leak for the better part of the year. hopefully I can solve this problem before something electrical in the path of the water gets damaged...
When I pour test water in the drain it comes out behind the front wheel wells, but I never crawled under there to look for the opening. My weed wacker line hits a dead end when it is through the drain, so it probably doesn't open straight down. That would make too much sense...

Mine has leaked all over from the dome lights onto my radio, gear shift, heater controls, etc. and I haven't had a short circuit yet. But I probably have a buttload of black mold growing in my headliner :mad::puke:
 
When I pour test water in the drain it comes out behind the front wheel wells, but I never crawled under there to look for the opening. My weed wacker line hits a dead end when it is through the drain, so it probably doesn't open straight down. That would make too much sense...



Mine has leaked all over from the dome lights onto my radio, gear shift, heater controls, etc. and I haven't had a short circuit yet. But I probably have a buttload of black mold growing in my headliner :mad::puke:

I'm more concerned about my aftermarket radio and my amateur radio than anything. I've not seen any mold growing in mine and that is something that I am concerned about due to a penicillin allergy.

When I ran the line down my drain today I made it probably to the top of the windshield before it stopped. I also ran out of light to be able to see. I'll have to go to my dads work and see if I can go all the way to the bottom.

When I poured water down the drains, it flowed out behind the splash guards in the front wheel wells, seemingly without an issue.

One thing that makes this difficult is the fact that Chrysler used corrugated hoses for the drains instead of solid sided hoses. That would also help with the stuff getting stuck in the hoses.
 
The line should go a lot farther than that. About 5 feet or so until it bottoms out somewhere down in the engine compartment. I usually have to twist and wiggle it to get it around the curve at the top of the A-pillar (top of windshield). And make sure to use a small diameter weed wacker line, I used a thick one once and it would not make it around that curve.

But if your test water is flowing through the drains then your leak is somewhere else. Good luck. I can't wait to sell my piece of junk.
 
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