As noted in a previous discussion (Spark Plugs), there are certain benefits to resetting your ECU. Apparently, the guys over at CaliberForumz have stumbled on a way to do this procedure without leaving your battery disconnected for an hour (Improve Caliber's Throttle Response With the...)
1). Turn the ignition to Run, but do not start the engine.
2). Wait for all idiot lights to turn off (the last one will be the throttle indicator - the two half-moons w/ a lightning bolt between them).
3). Over the course of 15 seconds, slowly depress the throttle all the way to the floor. Try not to waver or be too jerky, just a nice slow, smooth push.
4). Over the next 15 seconds, slowly let the throttle out in the same manner.
5). Allow the car to sit for about an hour. (This is in the original procedure list, but i tried waiting just a minute and it worked anyway.)
6.) Start the car and drive as you normally would.
Your car should respond differently, almost instantly. The ECU fuel maps are reset to factory original specs, and the computer "forgets" all the previous info it has learned about your driving style. This gives the computer a fresh start to accommodate for a new driver (if you bought your Pat used as I did), replaced/upgrades parts, change in altitude, etc.
I tried it last night, and it definitely makes a difference. I noticed right away that the throttle response was more immediate. I reset the ECU and drove home, but seeing as how i was in choppy traffic (lots of idling, broken up by low-medium acceleration), this is what the ECU began to learn.
When i drove it again that evening, the tranny gears seemed to sync up smooth as silk at 2500rpm, which it didn't before. But when pushed harder (over 3000rpm), the tranny had a harder time matching gears. So I did the relearn procedure again, this time accelerating out to about 4000rpm before shifting, accelerating hard, and lots of throttle off the line. Sure enough, it wanted to run out to 4k or so before syncing up for gear changes. Shifting at about 2500rpm was slow and painful. But torque steer, which used to be bad, has been all but eliminated to my amazement! The difference is quite noticeable.
So, that said, it is important that if you do this, you drive your normal style for the first couple of miles. This will give the computer the best opportunity to accommodate your driving style, thus giving the best results.
Over the course of time, the computer will create a very specific fuel map in it's best effort to give you the power you want while protecting the engine and offering the best fuel mileage. The "brand new" feel from a fresh reset will fade away, and you'll be left with something probably very near what you had before, but please keep in mind that this is just how the computer is made to work.
I plan to perform another reset tonight and hopefully give my ECU a chance to get a more accurate picture of my driving profile, rather than the ultra-conservative one and the high-spirited one I subjected it to last night.
Hope someone else finds this useful! :smiley_thumbs_up:
1). Turn the ignition to Run, but do not start the engine.
2). Wait for all idiot lights to turn off (the last one will be the throttle indicator - the two half-moons w/ a lightning bolt between them).
3). Over the course of 15 seconds, slowly depress the throttle all the way to the floor. Try not to waver or be too jerky, just a nice slow, smooth push.
4). Over the next 15 seconds, slowly let the throttle out in the same manner.
5). Allow the car to sit for about an hour. (This is in the original procedure list, but i tried waiting just a minute and it worked anyway.)
6.) Start the car and drive as you normally would.
Your car should respond differently, almost instantly. The ECU fuel maps are reset to factory original specs, and the computer "forgets" all the previous info it has learned about your driving style. This gives the computer a fresh start to accommodate for a new driver (if you bought your Pat used as I did), replaced/upgrades parts, change in altitude, etc.
I tried it last night, and it definitely makes a difference. I noticed right away that the throttle response was more immediate. I reset the ECU and drove home, but seeing as how i was in choppy traffic (lots of idling, broken up by low-medium acceleration), this is what the ECU began to learn.
When i drove it again that evening, the tranny gears seemed to sync up smooth as silk at 2500rpm, which it didn't before. But when pushed harder (over 3000rpm), the tranny had a harder time matching gears. So I did the relearn procedure again, this time accelerating out to about 4000rpm before shifting, accelerating hard, and lots of throttle off the line. Sure enough, it wanted to run out to 4k or so before syncing up for gear changes. Shifting at about 2500rpm was slow and painful. But torque steer, which used to be bad, has been all but eliminated to my amazement! The difference is quite noticeable.
So, that said, it is important that if you do this, you drive your normal style for the first couple of miles. This will give the computer the best opportunity to accommodate your driving style, thus giving the best results.
Over the course of time, the computer will create a very specific fuel map in it's best effort to give you the power you want while protecting the engine and offering the best fuel mileage. The "brand new" feel from a fresh reset will fade away, and you'll be left with something probably very near what you had before, but please keep in mind that this is just how the computer is made to work.
I plan to perform another reset tonight and hopefully give my ECU a chance to get a more accurate picture of my driving profile, rather than the ultra-conservative one and the high-spirited one I subjected it to last night.
Hope someone else finds this useful! :smiley_thumbs_up:
