I'm in a similar boat, but for my HAM radios, and possibly a stereo.

Do you have heated seats?

While searching for a blown fuse tonight (my power receptacle wasn't working - first time I'd tried it), I discovered I have fuses in the fuse box for many accessories I don't have in the car!

This means you can likely get power for your CB (4-watts output probably doesn't draw more than an amp or two on transmit) from the stock harness for things like the heated seats etc.... I think. haven't done any snooping around, yet, but plan to Sunday (unless the wife has other plans for me, heh).

Here's the owner's manual for my 2014, along with what I have in the fuse block above the TIPM. Note that I swapped fuse 12 (Inverter, which I don't have..... yet!) for fuse 13 (Cigar lighter). Fuse 11 (Power Outlet? what does THAT do?) was fine. There may be a second receptacle somewhere in the vehicle I haven't seen, yet.

I'm thinking of using 5 (Trailer tow - mine only has a 15A fuse there vs. the 20 indicated for some reason), 11 (Inverter, 20A), and 19 (Stereo amp, 20A), 30 (NO fuse on my panel; 20A for heated seats), and 37 (25A for a Diesel Fuel Heater) to keep a 1F capacitor mounted in the spare tire well or the 'pocket' in the passenger rear area, which will provide power via an Anderson Powerpole breakout to run two HAM radios, interface to a solar controller, and MAYBE run a stereo amplifier. This way, I can simply use connectors to clip to the factory harness (Using series isolating diodes, most likely) and have a total of 84A available if no fuse is popped, and the wiring harness has all the connectors installed for these accessories.

 

Hello MrChips.

Thanks for the helpful reply. I have thought about using the fuse box to power the lights and CB, especially since I do not have towing, inverter, or heated seats.

The biggest problem for me with using the fuse box is that then I would have to run the power from the fuse box, through the fender I am assuming, and into the glove box. I do not see how it is possible to run additional cables through the fender.

That would leave me with two power and ground wires going from the fuse box to the glove box, one pair going to the CB and the other pair to the switch panel. Then a long set of four power and four grounds running through the hatch and up the passenger side and into the glove box, as well as coax going through the hatch and up the driver's side to the CB.

This leads me to another question: Do I need to run the four ground cables (from the lights) all the way to the front and tap it into the ground wire that is going to the switch panel? Or, can I find another ground wire, such as the taillight ground, and connect it there?

Sorry for being such an electrical noob. I just want to make sure that I have everything in order and planned before I start pulling things apart.

Also, here are the parts in question:

Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWWP2MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005N5WW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Switch panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQO9R4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Again, the lights will be wired in pairs. So one power and one ground for every two.

Thanks!
Rage

 

You likely wouldn't need to run anything new through the firewall - the wiring harness may already have the wires available to you. As for the switch panel, cute, but massive overkill. HAMs use similar stuff on their 'go-boxes' and such. I have removed SO MANY of them after switches fail, voltmeters stay on all the time and actually drain the battery (yeah, it happens) etc. Go simpler without so much pizzazz, and you may be happier.

How many of those 18W work lights will you be mounting? Unless regulated, they'll likely draw somewhere around 1 1/2 amps each - not all that much. Chassis ground will be fine for them. 12Amps is exactly the max rating for current you can pull through a 15Amp fuse continuously before it blows under ideal circumstances, so you'd want a separate circuit for the power plug and CB.

The CB can be a touchy subject - depending on your antenna (Gonna get one of those doodads that lets you use the FM antenna as the 'hidden' CB antenna, too?), and any electrical noise, grabbing a system ground may be unnecessary if you have a 8 GOOD * clean chassis ground with a star washer etc. BTW< pulled the dash panel today (Heh, used an old ATM card with a bend crimped in it about 1/2" from the end to get the initial pry), and at a glance at night in a dark Jeep it seems as though there's some room in that dash for the CB etc.

You can also mount individual switches where the buttons for the ass-warmers go, too vs. using a $50 non-custom-fit panel, or perhaps a junkyard snag for the actual switches would yield the ability to run a relay like a good boy?

 

As you are considering additional circuits--just remember this one "rule-of-thumb" electrical engineers use on fuse sizes and fusing: the fuse is there to protect the wiring--not the appliance attached to it--so that the fuse will open when the current flow exceeds the safe capacity of the wiring--without it overheating and catching fire. If you're concerned about the individual electronic devices needing fusing, you can place an in-line fuse in the immediate wiring harness and supply only ONE set if battery and ground wires--and as MrChips suggested--use a star-washer under your ground wire connection--if not all the way back to the battery. Computer circuits have used this technique for 50 years or more.

 

There's a plug for the "house-type plug" assembly in the center console, if what I've heard is correct. I've run power cords through the firewall, there's a kinda sealed hole under the carper beneath the pedals(probably another on the passenger side). Others have found a way to run wires through a hole in the door jamb someplace. And as for an inverter to plug stuff into, you can buy one at pretty much any truck stop, though extra batteries for the Jeep wouldn't hurt if you're gonna run alot of extra stuff.

 

Yep, I ran my wiring for my reverse led pod through the side fender and in through the gromit where the door wiring goes for power windows and locks.

 

Thank you everyone for the feedback and suggestions.

I know that switch panel is overkill. I originally wanted to install switches into the factory panel next to the hazard lights button. However, I was finding it hard to locate the parts needed for that.

Thank you for mentioning the voltmeter runs constant. I have thought about this, and plan to install an inline switch to activate the panel.
Battery>Fuse>Toggle Switch>Switch Panel>Light Pairs.

There will be extra switches on that panel that will not be in use currently. However, I do plan to run auxiliary hazard LED lights at a later time, such as those used for construction and escort services.

I have a 4' Firestik mounted on the driver's side of next to the hatch. I already have the coax routed through the cabin to under the driver's seat.

I need to look under the carpet up front and see if I can locate that area mentioned for going through the firewall. I did not see anything the first time I looked, but perhaps I was looking in the wrong spot or not far enough down.

If time permits, and the wife, hopefully I will get some work done this weekend and finally figure this out.



BLKJ33P, I am having a hard time visualizing this... Are you able to provide example pictures of your wiring? Any visual help with routing cables would be greatly appreciated.

 

For the spot under the carpet, you'll need to pull back the carpeting under the pedals and from behind the plastic shifter housing a bit. There's existing wires running through a spot that should be directly beneath/behind the accelerator pedal. Using some stiff wire, such a coat hangar as BLKJ33P mentioned, you should be able to run 3-4 wires through with an expected amount of difficulty. I have 4 wires for modifications running through there alongside the existing stock wires. Not sure how well any more would fit, although I would definitely recommend running your wires through one at a time, just to be safe.

 

Thank you, BLKJ33P, I appreciate it!



Thanks RossoRacer, that helps a lot! I never would have thought there to be wires running that low... Then again, I was distracted by how different modern cars look compared to the old 80s and early 90s wiring! Sounds like it will be challenging, but I imagine I'll be capable of running the power/ground for the switch panel and the power/ground for the CB without too much difficulty. If it is a pain, maybe I will run the CB through one of the switches on the panel.
The lights are running through the hatch up to the switch panel, and that seems pretty easy and straight forward. My hold up has been the power from the battery to the cabin switch panel.

Only one thing left to figure out... Adding mounting plates to the roof basket's side rails for the lights. A trip to Lowe's should give me plenty of aluminum options.

Thanks again, everyone!

 

Did you measure for voltage on both sides of Fuse 30? I wonder if the TIPM needs to be flashed to allow that option?