Keep me posted about this. Exact same issue for me so i installed a push button start, thats still requires key in ignition to bypass while i take my time to figure out the exact issue.

 

Will do. I may have to try to manually crank the starter. The first time I popped the clutch from a roll and it started, but this last time it didn't work and my Pat ended up at the bottom of our hill and I had to use the wife's CRV to pull it back up to the house :lol: Maybe I didn't get a fast enough roll that time or something. Ugh...

 

My local dealer pointed to the $1200 tipm and said no warranty. Im thinking loose wire somewhere since mine came back to life 3-4 weeks later even though it was only for a day. But modules dont die then come back to life weeks later.

 

Nothing would surprise me with this damned thing. When you added push button start, which wire is for the starter? Was it all in dash or under hood?

I did it many years ago on my old neon, but tech has changed and I'm not 100% the method is still the same. I just want to hot wire and see if it cranks bypassing the wcm.

 

I spliced into a wire directly at the tipm. Cant remember the colour right now exactly. But it was in the small brown connector. If you can wait a few hours I'll check my wiring diagrams. Im a 2hr drive away from my vehicle and wont get a chance to be back to look at it until tomoro or the next day.

Cycle your key 3 times see if it throws a code though. Mine showed p1279 starter circuit 2 open.

 

If you could, that would be awesome. No codes, since I disconnected the battery.

I'm going to try popping the clutch again tonight and if it starts, I'm driving it right to the dealer. If anything, it'll save me the cost of a tow.

 

I'm not that great with these wiring diagrams, so do a bit of testing if you can but I think it was a yellow/grey(wire #8 in C10 Connector). Just trace it real quick make sure that is the one that goes to the starter. If you can test it to see if power is running through it. Also I just noticed your other thread about headlights. If all you problems lead back to the tipm, Dorman Manufacturing makes a tipm for much cheaper for your 07-09. They have a video on youtube also how to program it to your vehicle.

 

Well, I was looking around on here and happened to find several people that had the same problem as I did, and the problem was the black relay box down by the driver side wheel well. I popped it opened and sure enough, one of the relays was corroded and had a pin broken off. I'm not going to get around to really trying to fix it until tomorrow (damn my wife for waiting until the last minute to do taxes, so now I'm doing them this year).

Hopefully this will be the fix I need. The other thing that gives me hope is that there is no security light when I try to start it, so that might disprove the WCM failing.

 

That black relay box you mentioned. I checked mine too, was slightly corroded cleaned it up and a few other wires and then it showed the code I mentioned. But none of mine were broken. I don't have the security light show up either.

One of Three OBD2 Code readers found that my vehicle was not recognizing the key turning to the start position so this led me to believe either ignition switch or bad wire.

 

I bought a patriot that wouldn't crank .I dug into everything I could find on the net ,and from what I was able to figure out ,the wcm is not your problem as it should show a security light ,and it should start for a second then stall ,and as far as I can tell ,yours doesn't crank .I ran a push button to the yellow starter wire and it works fine now. My relay box had one relay that was green in the contact area ,I replaced it and checked the wiring connections ,but none appeared bad and I never found a diagram of the relays to see what was going on with them .My relay that appeared bad was the one in the corner that did have another beside it ,is that the one that is bad in your case ?

 

My relay that appeared bad was the one in the corner that did have another beside it ,is that the one that is bad in your case ?

x2

 

Yeah, that's the one. So, replacing it and cleaning up the connectors won't do anything?

And which yellow wire? The one coming off of the starter? Is there an easy way to get to it? Thanks!

 

The relay dance didn't help me ,you have nothing to lose by trying it with your fingers crossed .
Yes ,the little yellow wire off the starter ,remove the intake tube between the air filter cover and the throttle body ,the wire is fairly easy to get to then .I used a inline fuse coming from the battery positive ,through a firewall hole to the switch ,back to the battery area where I installed a 40 amp relay .Took about 15 minutes to wire ,mount the switch ,and confirm working .I put the switch right beside the key on the 1" flat part of the dash .

 

Same here as bruce except i spliced into the wire right at the tipm.

 

I only got a chance to take a quick peek today and didn't see a yellow wire on the starter, just a red and a green. Is it in one of the plastic wire wraps?

 

Not sure but don't think so ,the small terminal that's right up next to the engine block is the one you want ,the connector is backwards if looking through the area the air tube was ,just push the terminal straight to the passenger side of the car ,then tug a little on the wire and you will be fine .I am 6'5" and 240 lbs ,I had to work getting my girlie hands in there but in the end I got it with no issues .I still haven't put any of it back together ,I will see if I can get you a picture or two tomorrow ,but it is supposed to pour all day .

 

Ok, I found the wire. Before going through the trouble of wiring it all up, I did a hotwire test first and while the starter will crank, the engine won't fire at all. So, it is more than likely a TIPM or WCM issue afterall.

But the lack of the security light being on (just for a few seconds when turning the key), all but eliminates the WCM.

 

Did you have the key in the run position ?

 

Yep. The only thing I couldn't do is push the clutch, but that switch should be a non-issue since that would just keep the starter from triggering.

 

I wish I had a proper wiring diagram to help you,unfortunately I have been unable to download and open up the ones I have found ,and I won't have the jeep long enough to bother purchasing one .

 

Not a problem. I appreciate you guys helping me out. It looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and order a TIPM from Rockauto and hope that does the trick. Thanks again.

 

I don't know where you live ,but there is a guy in Toronto that rebuilds them for about $300.00 ,yours get redone so you don't need to go to the dealer to reprogram it .

 

I'm in Pennsylvania. Rockauto has them for $300 + 200 core, and they're supposedly blanks so programming should be a breeze with no need for the dealer.

 

Those are the dorman ones they sell. They have a youtube video that explains install and programming. I wish they had one for my 2010 and I would be willing to give that a shot before I dive more into wiring stuff.

 

I finally got around to ordering the TIPM last week and it should be here in a few hours. *fingers crossed* I am so sick of driving my wife's CRV; it's like driving a top heavy boat when compared to my Pat.

 

And it didn't do a damn thing. Didn't even fix the passenger side headlight issue. That was money well spent...

EDIT: I think it's time to just trade it in. I don't want a car payment, but I need a reliable car that's not going to need $$ thrown at it randomly in hopes of fixing issues.

 

So how did you program it?

 

Per dorman's directions: 12 seconds in run position, 12 seconds off. Supposed to program the blank tipm.

 

Look what I just found! This may be the end of our wild goose chase!

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/jeep-wont-start-battery-starter-good-149840.html

Wranglers with the exact same issue and a fix to go along with it. I really hope this is my issue.

 

Thanks for the heads up, but unfortunately I don't think this is my issue. I've attempted to bypass the ignition (turning the key to run, but feeding power directly to the starter). It will crank then, but still won't start. My issue has to be the sentry key issue, or it's some deep-seated electrical problem.

However, this sounds like a possible solution to the problem you guys posted in here.

 

I'm having it towed to the dealership this weekend. If they tell me it's the TIPM, I'm going to go all Bruce Banner on them. :boxing:

 

I wouldn't blame you either. I lost my temper a bit last time I went to the dealership, cleared out the service department lol. But I'm convinced its not the tipm in my case and that's what they wanted to changed for $1300 plus labor.

My friend and I are doing a road trip tomorrow to pick up another roadrunner for him ,Mother's Day is Sunday but I will pull my column apart if I have time and ambition and see what we have got going on in there .I will say ,my key has a nice twist so I wouldn't be surprised if something is physically broken in there .

Let us know how that goes. I'm 5 days away from seeing mine again but its top priority when I get home. It has to be something in there for me since it doesn't acknowledge the key being turned to the start position. And I think I know what you mean by the key seems twisted a bit, mine is a bit plus mine wiggles slightly in the ignition. Maybe lightening up the key chain would help me prevent this problem next time, if it is the case.

 

My friend and I are doing a road trip tomorrow to pick up another roadrunner for him ,Mother's Day is Sunday but I will pull my column apart if I have time and ambition and see what we have got going on in there .I will say ,my key has a nice twist so I wouldn't be surprised if something is physically broken in there .