[zbee]

may mention to stu maybe include a 18mm socket as they are common here, ill be doing mine soon, so i will be able to give a good comparaison to the RRO lift

 

[Murcho]

Hmm. guess I was too tired to realize that. :doh:

I took that picture before I had even driven, so the springs hadn't seated yet. I will have to check again tomorrow to see if it is any different. Nice catch!

Hi Scott, just some words of wizdom in regards to doing vehicle before and after measurements;

1. The Vehicle should be measured on a level concrete slab, not a common driveway (**if you have a look at your driveway, there are cracks all over it and it is uneven, this gives flase readings as the suspension will move in order to keep the body as level as possible**)

2. You should always measure from center of wheel/hub to guard at 90degrees. This is a universal and very common method of measuring vehicle suspension as rim edge to guard can throw readings out with different rims sizes and designs.

Also worth mentioning that export vehicles may be higher or lower in ride heights than US (your local) vehicles.

Can you do me a favour and remeasure yours on a level concrete slab and post the measurement in mm? Pls?

FYI, the vehicle I did recorded the following measurement:

BEFORE:
Front LH: 455 Front Right: 455
Rear LH: 450 Rear Right: 455

AFTER:
Front LH: 510 Front RH: 505
Rear LH: 500 Rear RH: 505

 

[Schoat333]

Hi Scott, just some words of wizdom in regards to doing vehicle before and after measurements;

1. The Vehicle should be measured on a level concrete slab, not a common driveway (**if you have a look at your driveway, there are cracks all over it and it is uneven, this gives flase readings as the suspension will move in order to keep the body as level as possible**)

2. You should always measure from center of wheel/hub to guard at 90degrees. This is a universal and very common method of measuring vehicle suspension as rim edge to guard can throw readings out with different rims sizes and designs.

Also worth mentioning that export vehicles may be higher or lower in ride heights than US (your local) vehicles.

Can you do me a favour and remeasure yours on a level concrete slab and post the measurement in mm? Pls?

FYI, the vehicle I did recorded the following measurement:

BEFORE:
Front LH: 455 Front Right: 455
Rear LH: 450 Rear Right: 455

AFTER:
Front LH: 510 Front RH: 505
Rear LH: 500 Rear RH: 505

Yeah, my driveway isn't the best place to measure lol. Judging by my hub to guard measurments, i think it was pretty close.

Here are my measurements from hub to guard tho.

Before both fronts were 450 and the rears were sagging a little at 447. (17.75" front 17.6" rear)
AFTER:
Front LH: 482 Front RH: 485
Rear LH: 504 Rear RH: 505

(thats approx 19" in the front and 19.8" in the rear) This was after I reversed to the position on my driveway that I took the original measurements at.

I then pulled forward and the weight seemed to settle back a little bit giving me this result.

Fronts were both 495 (19.5")

Rears were 502 (19.76")


I attribute the difference in the front to the CVT. I'm betting it is one heavy beast of a transaxle.

I am happy with the results. Should work out good when I load the back down with heavy camping gear. :smiley_thumbs_up:

 

[Schoat333]

I also checked the measurement of ground clearence at that piece that hangs down. This time I made sure I was in the exact same place in my driveway.

It was now 10.375".

 

[JamesNewJeep]

I think you need to paint your muffler. You must be good at mechanic to put springs on yourself good job.

You should paint it silver to match your paint, because that looks best....oh. wait.

 

[patroit07]

Silver would look real nice it would match up real good.

 

[Murcho]

True, I think you're right about the CVT tranny, they are cirtainly alot heavier than the manuals. We did a manual vehicle. A CVT box like that of the Pat's would weight 20-30kgs more than a manual I'd say.

Still looks great Silver is the new Black !

 

[Schoat333]

Looks good Scott, I saw it over on the other jeep site and was surprised! It really looks good with the lift and I'm glad your getting the alignment checked. So are some more aggressive tires in your future too?

It looks like a trip back to Badlands could be in order to check out that new lift. I'll be ready to go there in a month or so.

Good Job:smiley_thumbs_up:

Thanks Will!

I will probably look into some tires once the pro-comps wear out. I think I may try to go larger since I can remove the spring perch now. I have a 4 wheel parts store close by, so maybe they will let me test fit some different sizes.

I'm ready for the badlands whenever you are.

True, I think you're right about the CVT tranny, they are cirtainly alot heavier than the manuals. We did a manual vehicle. A CVT box like that of the Pat's would weight 20-30kgs more than a manual I'd say.

Still looks great Silver is the new Black !

Thats what I figured. Still, a .25" difference is really noting. You wouldn't be able to tell by looking at it.

Thanks for the great service, great product, and quick shipping!


To anyone that is interested in Stu's products, I can tell you that you will not be disapointed. The springs are very high quality, and the service is excellent.

 

[kaizer27]

Got mine done, Schoat thanks for the help midway through last night. Got the 18mm socket and impact wrench.

BTW, when you do your write up, those flexible rubber stap wrenches do a great job of keeping the strut from spinning when you take that top nut off with the impact wrench.

Your write up is going to be a real time saver for these guys when they go to put them on, if your went like mine the first side took forever and once i figured it out I could do the other side really quickly. I bet I could do a whole patriot in 2.5 hours now.

Guys, you want these springs...the ride is amazing and the stance is great now.

Quick phone pic, it really opens things up with the stock tires still on it.

 

[Schoat333]

Got mine done, Schoat thanks for the help midway through last night.

Your write up is going to be a real time saver for these guys when they go to put them on, if your went like mine the first side took forever and once i figured it out I could do the other side really quickly. I bet I could do a whole patriot in 2.5 hours now.

Glad I could help. I'm working on the pics for the write up still. I tried to be detailed, so I'm trying to figure out what order the pics go in now lol.

The first rear took a little longer for me because I was trying to figure out what the best way was to remove the strut assembly. I decided to just remove the outer bolt on the lower control arm and the second one went much smoother. I didnt even have to disconnect the rear sway bar to do it.

The fornt was just like any other car so it was fairly easy for me. Just had to fight with rusty sway bar bolts. I never understood why they use such low grade steel on sway bar links. they just rust away here. :doh:

Looks good! There is some serious wheel gap with those stock tires. :smiley_thumbs_up:

Get some measurements, from the hub to fender, for us to compair.

 

[kaizer27]

I will get those measurements tomorrow for you.

Aside from the stupid recessed nut on the fronts they were cake.

The rear, with the tighter spring was even a pain in the ass with the spring compressors...rear was just pretty much a pain. The bolts in the car were especially pissing me off...quarter turn, quarter turn, quarter turn.

My front seems to sit a little higher than the rear in relation to where it was, most of the lifted trucks I have had were like this so I wasn't too surprised. Going to have to reaim the headlights as well I think.

 

[Schoat333]

I will get those measurements tomorrow for you.

Aside from the stupid recessed nut on the fronts they were cake.

The rear, with the tighter spring was even a pain in the ass with the spring compressors...rear was just pretty much a pain. The bolts in the car were especially pissing me off...quarter turn, quarter turn, quarter turn.

My front seems to sit a little higher than the rear in relation to where it was, most of the lifted trucks I have had were like this so I wasn't too surprised. Going to have to reaim the headlights as well I think.

Ratcheting wrenches are a life saver. :smiley_thumbs_up:

You did lift the little access panel right? I didnt realize this at first. You have to "break" them open at the bottom.

 

[kaizer27]

I did use the access panel...mine broke completely off, don't know if they are supposed to or not but oh well.

I was wishing for a ratcheting wrench the whole time.

 

[Tony1911]

ill be doing mine soon, so i will be able to give a good comparaison to the RRO lift

Now that's going to be an interesting comparison! Looking forward to it. :smiley_thumbs_up:

 

[zbee]

i will be going over to do mine in 2 weeks, so i have orginised with stu to do it at his place so he can give a proffesional comparison, we will do measurements etc

 

[cdrift]

The rro lift would be a good comparison, but unnecissary, the spring lift actually changes
problems in the suspension (stiffer ride) while the rro lift only changes height. Even if the rro lift is 1/2" different I would rather have a better ride than stock. I am still curious through what would be the difference.

 

[Krocker]

I would also have some idea here like zbee, very useful thread.I'll visit the thread and learn on this stuff... place show some pics to for more guide. thx!

 

[whitep]

Thats so BOSS!!, so whats the added height with the new coils?

 

[kaizer27]

Thats so BOSS!!, so whats the added height with the new coils?

aprx 2 inches

 

[Boy George]

Heres a view from the front and rear. (sorry, forgot to get before pics)

Is it just my imagination or is the left side of your hood slightly higher than the right side? Maybe you should adjust it, it`s very easy ... two hand turned stops in the front, two smaller ones at the bottom of the rear hinges ... best to use a nut wrench there.