[FH-1]

Hi everyone
I have been reading the forum since B-4 I bought my, (wife's) pat in Nov. 08. and am just now joining.
I live in upstate NY and have used the Pat in all types of winter weather, and can say it performs GREAT in snow and ice. all my other trucks are 4wd, Dodge 2500 w/cummings, and chevy 2500 gas, and the Jeeps are tops when it comes to traction thats why my wife drives it.
On to my ? Yesterday I took the kids skiing, and I rolled down the rear window( electric) and it only went 1/2 way and stopped, I tried to roll it up, and it only moved adout 1'', after physically messin with it I got it to close to within 1/4 inch It wasn't frozen, and I didn't force it.
Has anyone else had a problem?

Dan

 

[tristan_zhao]

the contact of the switch may be burned

the contact of the switch may be burned. You can close your window a little bit a time and then wait for several hours and close a little bit again. My old car had the same problem before. The switch I meant is on the side of your door.

 

[jeepmuck]

Anyone ever notice that the driver's side window tends to freeze up really easy in cold weather. Its happened to me the past couple trips down the Turnpike. While the passenger side works just fine.

 

[cairn99]

Yes, I had this problem with window freezin up that I couldn't get it to go down. I don't know what can be done for this.

 

[FH-1]

Tried both the switch on the drivers door, and the swith on the rear door itself, both give the same result. Going to dealer tue morn. (warranty) just thought I could get some ideas so they don't try to BS me. I've been working on vehicles for 25 years, and my first guess is it seems & sounds like the motor that actually drives the window, or the scissors action is binding.

 

[sskelmar]

I would agree, it's the motor or binding. There really isn't anything else it could be. I've had no trouble myself, except for the freezing that others are refering to. A little armor all took care of that.

 

[jessi]

it happened to me, chrysler replaced the window motor under warranty.

 

[cyberpine]

I was a searching for a rugged looking, small SUV with manual windows and dark Vinyl Seats. And from the heavens appeared the Patriot base model - dirt cheap and low maint.

I've had power window problems on the last two cars I've owned. I think power windows are overrated really.

 

[FH-1]

Just got back from dealer, they said it's the regulator (scissor action) that came apart.
I didn't look at it myself, but tomorrow when I bring it back to have the new parts, (had to order of coarse) put in I will look at it myself.

 

[FH-1]

just got back from warranty window problem. The regulator they referred to is actually the workings of the window. There is a bar that bolts in the door frame, and in the approx. center there is a 2inch (+/-) plastic drum that a small 1/16 inch cable wraps around sort or like a mini winch. I seems the cable came off the drum and bound up. probably could have rewound the cable and fixed on my own, but this was warranty.
The pully or drum has grease on it, and I think the grease hardened, and didnt let the cable wind right. The drum is splined for the electric motor, so I am thinking (not always good) that the manual crank has the same works only the crank goes in the splines instead of the motor. Just a thiught.

Dan H

 

[Engineeringtech]

Weak power window motors

I live in upstate NY too. The power window motors are so weak, that if I get the slightest amout of ice on the windows they can't be opened. The motor just doesn't have enough power to break them free. Sometimes I have to run the heater full blast for an hour or more to get the windows free, even when there doesn't appear to be any ice on the window seals or ice. The rubber seals at the base of the window aren't as tight fitting as I would like either.

 

[BWheeler]

This is common on a jeep Patriot! The electric window occasionally fails and its one of the weaknesses you can find.

 

[bobL]

Power Window inspection & maybe fix...

It is 12/9/2016 and I just worked on my Brother-In-Laws 2014 Jeep Patriot Latitude 4X4.
Passenger front window would roll down, but not back up.
Tested the switch to find no negative signal being sent to the motor.
It works by reversing polarity to motor for CW/CCW rotation.
Swapped around and motor worked, swapped switch to find it worked.
There is no relays anywhere, all controls go thru driver master window switch.
Took it open and found corrosion.
After further inspection found the switches are just pressed down onto the circuit board.
Gently lift it up off the circuit board and contacts can easily be cleaned.
What I thought was corrosion was actually dried grease hardened and prohibiting contact.
Switch itself can be broken down into the main base, 6 prong contacts, 2 rocker contacts, and the actual lever which has 2 silver spring-loaded contacts.
Cleaned all thoroughly then applied fresh dielectric grease to the contacts.
Also cleaned the circuit board contact holes.
Reassembled and VOILA!
Each of the single switches (R/F, R/R, L/R) are all the same and listed $40 online.
The Master listed as $100 online.
So to spend a few hours and the price of contact cleaner and dielectric grease over replacement value well worth it.
The cable design is like a figure 8; 1 cable from motor to lower pulley on back slide bracket then up to window clip.
Another cable from same window clip to upper pulley on back slide bracket; then across and downward to lower pulley on front slide bracket and up to window clip.
Another cable from same window clip to upper pulley on front slide bracket; then across and downward to motor.
The cables are spring loaded at the motor housing, so tension is maintained.
If it comes apart on you, the cables are wound inside on a pulley like the string on a double weed-eater.
(Half goes CW and other goes CCW, there are 6 grooves for it, so set clips to brackets 1/2 way and wind 1 CW3 times and other 1 CCW 3 times, then it goes into the housing).
To make it easier, the motor can be removed from the housing, JUST BE SURE TO KEEP IT ALL TOGETHER.
If the center spline magnet shaft slips out, the plastic connector section has 2 spring loaded magnets which ride against the shaft.
*****They will close in and can easily be broken upon reassembly.*****

 

[PheasantPete]

If your window went down but will not come up with either the driver door switch or that windows door switch try this if you need to get your window up. Flush the master switch side with isopropyl alcohol. Dump a bunch in there and try working switch back & forth. This will help clean out dirt, water and resulting corrosion on contacts on circuit. It worked on my passenger window that got stuck down in cold. It also freed left rear side window master (driver console) switch. It also indicates it has corrosion & likely will fail again in future. But when it is raining, snowing or extremely cold give it a try to keep interior protected.

 

[PheasantPete]

Also be aware alcohol is flammable so no smoking and disconnect battery first especially if it is warm out. After it dries for 10 minutes then reconnect battery. I flushed mine @ 3 degrees so I skipped this important safety step but I advise disconnecting battery for safety.