not really a diy job.
it is usually changed when you change the timing belt,water pump and pulleys,,at 150000 km as the book says.
you need access under the right side fender and ideally the vehicle should be suspended.
i am a diy guy but i wouldn't do this one on my own.

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

The more I look at this the more I agree with you.

It seems to be a job for a workshop with a lift, as the only way to the belt seems to be from below.

 

Try a VW/Audi independent for this work, a Jeep dealer would more than likely sub out the work anyway and get the cam belt done at the same time. The cam belt needs an alignment tool so probably not economical for DIY.

How many miles have you done?

 

Hi Dane,

That's a really good idea. 2008 car done approx. 50K miles.

Now, as if the Patriot sensed something coming, the Battery/Charging light is flashing off and on. With associated battery issues.

Battery now replaced as the old one showed 12.3 volts at rest. with old battery no power to start just the click of the solenoid. When attempting to start the voltage on the battery dropped to around eight + volts straight away. I think the battery needed replacement after close to six years.

Anyway, with new battery car now starts. Battery light stayed on and then went off. But came back on again all while engine running. Have checked the voltage when battery is light on with car running and 12.2 volts. This tells me that either the alternator is kaput or maybe some sort of ground problem?

 

btw,why do you want to change the bellt?

 

To be honest I thought it was due at 36,000 miles. But I think that I may have misread the handbook service scheduled items?

No I seem to have these charging problems, is it related to the belt. That I am very unsure about.

 

Goguadi, didn't you solve some major electrical problems? I am sure I read your posts about it.

I am very reluctant to rush towards alternator changes only to find it was some other connections corroded out or something. What did you do over electrical problem.

 

if your belt makes a squeeky sound when accelerating,then it might be the cause of your charging problem.
if it doesn't and it isn't damaged in any way and it is tightened properly,then your problem lies elsewhere.
you might be looking at an alternator problem.
could be the charging element that has diodes on it and they may be shot (most common alternator problem)
could be a corroded wire or impropper contact (main wire on the alternator)
could be the pulley (usually makes a sound when damaged)
could be the solenoid inside the alternator (rare,but possible).
you have to check these first.best with a qualified electrician.
my electrical problem was two corroded relays in the relay box that was so smartly installed under the plastic wheel well protection,attached to the chassis.on the left side on mine,might be on the right on yours ,as you have a right hand drive.
i was having intermittent starting problems and everything pointed to this.
a good electrician sorted me out.
it shouldn't be too difficult.
good luck to you!

 

Many thanks for your replies. The "Battery" light on the dash seems to come on very intermittently and only stays on for a second or two, with the bing sound. I have a feeling this a short or loose connection somewhere. Back late last year jack4012 posted about a loose connection on the starter motor. This connection was repaired and solved his charging problem. That was also a 2.0 CRD. That check needs to be my next effort I think. Will keep posted.

 

2.0 CRD Battery charge light staying on

I have just picked up my 2.0 CRD Diesel Pat from the garage after the charge light remained constantly lit. This was after intermittent flashing and as expected when it was lit no charging at the battery .

After checks on the Alternator that proved okay, pleased to say.

It was in fact the cable from the Battery to the starter motor, it had become disconnected at the starter motor. It was fixed and the problem has now gone away.

If anyone is has flashing of the charge light it would be good to get the cable between the starter and battery checked out. It is difficult to check without a hoist as it is situated the back of the engine.

 

Good tip.

I'll check mine when I change the oil at the weekend, just in case.

 

Pretty easy to from the floor with basic tools.

Only tricky bit is the 13mm bolts on the tensioner.

Even with a basic 17mm spanner you can push the tensioner to release the belt from the bottom.