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245/70/16's on Moab's installed

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#61 ·
hvac59 said:
Does anyone have a clear idea as to what the spring guard actually does? It seems as if we are "mystifying" it's purpose! It's function is to prevent spring contact with the tire in the event that the springs becomes "unseated".
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close, but not quite.....the spring guard is there to prohibit the spring, when fully compressed, from coming in contact with the tire.

if you notice, the spring is not the same diameter from top to bottom. the coils are much smaller in diameter near the top and bottom than in the center. this allows more strut travel and keeps the coil spring from 'binding', or fully collapsing. when the spring is fully compressed, the large, center coils, will rest on the spring guard. if the guard is altered or removed, the spring is either free to make contact with your tire OR will hit the altered guard and THEN become 'unseated'. this is NOT good and could result in suspension collapse, damage to your vehicle or WORSE, an accident. :doh:
 
#62 ·
JeepJim said:
I was the one that first mentioned removing or modifying the spring catch and I'll also second Jeepster55's comments on being careful... if you lift one tire as the spring compresses it actually rests on that catch near full compression (ie during offroad or if you hit a pothole or curb) and that catch I talked about modifying or cutting off actually keeps the spring from rubbing your tires. Its not there to catch the spring if it breaks like I originally understood.

Our only opiton to get around this now is hoping a company like Old Man Emu (OME) will make an aftermarket spring that is uniform in diameter from top to bottom that way we can cut off that spring catch. With out the spring being replaced I wouldn't attempt cutting or modifying it. But thats just my opinion and I am the one that brought it up and decided to investigate it further.
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what i would like to see is a 'longer' strut, from the spring seat to the bottom of the strut. if someone made a strut that was, lets say 2" longer, then there would no longer be a need for the spacer at the top of the strut (as in the lift kit) AND would allow a larger tire tread width, section width and overall diameter.

anyone aftermarket manufacturer out there listening? make us a LONGER FRONT STRUT!!! :D "If you make it, we will BUY!" :smiley_thumbs_up:
 
Discussion starter · #65 · (Edited)
JeepJim,
Here is the home page for the company. ARB bought out OME a while back. I should have put that in my post for ya to start with. I have had OME components on the last two Jeeps that I built and they are definitly a $1 cigar for .75cents.....................
hvac59

http://www.arbusa.com/

Here is a coulpe shots of OME stuff installed........running washboards at 40mph is fun!!! ARB was true to their claim. "A balanced package, just fine tune with tire pressure".

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Discussion starter · #66 · (Edited)
Well, It was fun until I hit the 1" puddle that turned out to be a CLAY PIT and had to call the wife to come pull me out. Just sitting in it I sunk another about 6" until she got there 20 minutes later........ Talk about embarrased! She even stopped for a KODAK MOMENT when she had me halfway out!

Image


About a year later, I did it again with the LJ and tires aired down to about 10 psi, no problem at all. I went and did a little flexing beforehand, you know, to get ready :). Each of times it was on new OME srings and shocks as a test run.

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Not to highjack a thread or anything, just braggin' on OME's ride quality and I'll be waiting for ARB to start producing struts for our Patriots too.
hvac59
 
#68 ·
HVAC, I am thinking of putting your recommended 235/70R16s on my '08 Pat 4x4 Sport CVT, preferrably wrapped around some Moabs if I can find a set locally. Can I expect some further mods to accomodate clearance??? From reading this thread it looks like I would be alright, but I understand each tire paints a different picture when bolted on. I am looking at an AT tire, but am not firm on my selection. Maybe a Firestone Destination?

Also, when putting a set of Moabs on a Pat what can we expect this to do to the front end of the Pat over time with the difference in offset/backspace or whatever the case may be? A local tire and wheel guy I spoke with seems to think this is the dumbest idea ever and will ruin the front end of my new Pat.

p.s. This is my first post. Feels good.
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
nanrurt,
The modifications are very little. If you do nothing, it will rub the plastic wheel well liner only. So, if you want, you could drive it safely while you find the exact spot you wish to heat and form out of the way. It would only rub when the wheel is turned to aprox. 4 & 8 o'clock. That dictates going at a very slow speed anyway.

The impact of having Moabs on the vehicles wheel bearings will be very little. Will it shorten the amount of time for their service life. YES, by how much, I dought the average American would have the car that long anyway. But, My last 6 vehicles had straight axles that used cartridge bearings and I only changed bearings on the one that had stock wheels and tires.(My 01 Grand Cherokee). Sounds like the TIRE GUY had some strong opinions and was biased against something(or ignorant)...I feel that part of owning a vehicle includes some running gear being replaced. I have trucks at work that routinely get a fresh set of tires and brakes every 50k.(about 18 months) This always includes a ball joint a tie rod end and once and a while a bearing. There are 27 Ford 350 and Chevy 3500 series vans that operate at the GVW everyday in the fleet! I wonder what your tire guy would say about that:) BTW, we run a larger tire than stock to get about 10% more miles between changes too.(after the first change of course)

An answer to a question you didn't ask is that I prefer a All Terrain for the Pat due to the high road mileage I do and basically, I want the best grip I can get with a low highway noise level. That in itself is the most subjective thing to try to talk to others about due to the ears are on the beholder. Some other factors are here also, one being wet road grip and water ejecting ability. They are a must to me for commuting. Not being conceded, but actually they are needed for the others on the road that forget they are not the only people on the road. I really don't care for the MILAGE RATING on a tire because some manufacturers play tricks with the durometer(rubber harness) to make the wear rating go higher! I do prefer a softer compound for conformity and that is mostly a word of mouth subject. At least doing some homework in on the consumer to find this out. Some GOOD tire vendors will be techy enough to talk about this. Others just look it up in a book and repeat it like a parrot........... My tires where $105 out the door and I hope to get 30k out of them. They are also good for any speed that I will ever see and have a very soft compound. They pump water out excellent and have a very PREDICTABLE feel before going into a HYDROPLANE. The early BFG KO's where horrible due to trapping water in the tread block. They were good and then instantaneously went water skiing on ya'.

That's all I got for now. Hope this makes you feel better about changing tire and wheels anyway.
Later,
hvac59
 
#73 ·
nanrurt said:
Thanks for the advice man. Now I just need to find a set of wheels!
Click to expand...

if you're looking for 'inexpensive' wheels, try your local Jeep dealers to see if they have any 'take-offs' from an '07 or older KJ Liberty. sometimes you can pick 'take-offs' up for next to nothing. (in case you're not familiar with that term, 'take-offs' refer to anything the dealer TAKES OFF of a brand new vehicle and replaces it with something else. tires and wheels are the most common 'take-off' items) the KJ Liberty wheels are the same bolt pattern and i've seen them on a Patriot and they look pretty good. the stock ones are 16" steel, which you could paint any color and the fact that they ARE 16"ers would give you a wide variety of tires from which to choose. you may be even lucky to find some ALLOY 'take-offs'....that would be SWEET!:D

just a thought.....:)
 
#75 ·
nanrurt said:
Good idea. I will definately call around to some dealers... Thanks for the tip, I had never heard of dealer take-offs.
Click to expand...
just remember to ask for "KJ" Liberty wheels....that would be 2002-2007 ONLY! the new '08s (KK) models have a larger bolt pattern and will not fit.

good luck with your search.....:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#76 ·
Hey guys,

I'm ready to look like a clown here, and ask a question about something I really don't understand.

First, what would the downfall be of asking for the 16" Steel Wheel w/the FDII instead of the 17" Aluminum wheel be? Is the steel wheel inferior in strength?

Also, if said 16" wheel would work and I purchased a RR lift kit, would I be able to fit the following tire (215/70/16 with overall diameter of 28.69):

http://www.1010tires.com/tire.asp?tirebrand=Toyo&tiremodel=Open+Country+G-02+plus

I'd like to do something with zero rubbing. Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
I don't fully understand the question..............Asking "for" is in my mind that you are ready to buy a new Patriot! In any sense, the 16" wheel is going to primarily give you a larger sidewall. This equates to a different road feel and the ability to air you tires down a bit to have a larger contact patch without the concern of unseating a bead while offroading. My preference is to have a larger sidewall ratio to give the "feel" I'm accustom to. This is like talking about what boots are the best.......... It all depends on what your expectations are from the git'go. Some like the feel of a low profile sidewall to give the "rigidity" of the ride(when cornering) and not mind the harder hit thru the suspension as a by product. That's O.K., just not what everyone is looking for in their "purpose" for the vehicle.

A steel wheel is generally the same as a cast/forged wheel for most. Some hardcores will say(argue) that steel bends in harsh conditions and aluminum is lighter and won't distort, but for our purposes, it mostly comes down to style. Hate to say it, but that's the truth!

To fit the tire you referanced, NO PROBLEM..............rubbing won't be an issue at all.
hvac59
 
#78 ·
Looks really beefy! I really like those moabs and the way those tires fit the wheel well.

If I can find rims like those in black I will do it fo-sure.

I just got my black patriot (2.0, vinyl, no power windows or locks) less than 2 hours ago .. $14,600 Out the door... I think I stole it frankly.

I test drove the 2.0 and it has plenty of power for Miami. My wife says she can't believe I bought a car with no power windows or locks.. and I'm like.. who cares it does more than 23 mpg.. and looks like a truck and under 15k OTD???. I actually would have liked power windows, but simply wanted the 2.0 and the vinyl which I think looks and feels great.

Anyways, how badly will this rim/tire combination hurt my mpg and will it simply put too much strain on that 2.0?

And can I pretty much expect that this tire combo with any 16x8 5x4.5 patten with 5" backspace rim will fit my patriot?

Anybody know of some reasonable black rims with these specs?

Also, I wonder what market value on my brand new stock 16x6.5 steel rims is. I would actually consider painting them glossy black, but I dont want to ruin them and then have to dump painted rims.

Thanks for the post and info!
 
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#80 ·
Any chance I could fit 255/60s R16 on that rim on a 2wd 2.0 Patriot? The height looks great, but I wish it were wider.

Have you notice a any drop in MPG? Performance? handling? Sound? Full radius?


I'm considering an American Racing Fuel Black rim. 16x8 5" backspace.. I wonder if I will get the exact fit? I don't have mud guards though.. will i need to heat gun? and what?

Thanks for this valuable post and pics!
 
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