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OIL COLLER INSTALL

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hvac59

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Everyone,
Maybe one of the Mods will fix the spelling mistake before too many people see it. I really don't have a oily collar! Anyway, I thought I'd share write up of a oil cooler and drain valve install. Let me know what you think. It is not hard or time consuming as long as you have the right tools. About two hours if everything is planned out accordingly. All the parts will run about $175 list, at the dealer!
hvac59



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5 quarts of oil, 1 Gal. of red coolant and cooler kit.

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Oil filter.

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Everything layed out, including the drain valve.

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Torque wrench, small extension, 12mm hex, channel locks, magnet & funnel.

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7/8" wrench, pliers, screwdrivers, 3/8"extension/ratchet and 10 & 13mm sockets.

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Ramps, creeper,drain pan & droplight.

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5 gallon bucket lined with a clean bag.

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Some of my favorite chemicals......

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Coat the gasket of the FUMOTO drain valve with a thin layer of sealant.

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Clean oil pan and turn in the valve, Do not over torque, thats why I used the sealant.
 
Discussion starter · #2 · (Edited)
------------------------------PAGE TWO----------------------------------

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Oil drain valve positioned at the nearest 90 degree angle.( this is so you can tell if it has ever moved )

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Next is to remove battery and pull the tray too.

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Tray removed and set aside.

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From underneath, remove the tranny multipin plug by turning the locking ring counterclockwise. Be very careful and be sure to cover the half on the tranny with a small bag. Then tape it down water tight. My pinky is touching the stationary half on the tranny by the way!

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What is seen from above. The forward hose has been removed for coolant draining. THIS HAS BEEN DONE ON A COLD ENGINE. Once your sure the coolant in hitting the bucket, go ahead and remove the pressure cap to break the vacuum so the rest will drain freely. Note the RED tape and the bag covering the connector. Why it needed to be sealed is that the coolant will contaminate the sealed pins.

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The tranny cooler line has been positioned downward to direct the flow into the nice clean bucket!

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Now to start on the oil side while things are draining. Pull the origianl filter adapter with the 12mm hex.

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Clean the sufaces and lube the gasket on the cooler. Position it carefully and torque the new filter adapter to the required spec. It will only go on one way, with the coolant connections pointing towards the driver side. Do not put the oil filter on yet!

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Start the plumbing on the coolant side now. Everything should have had time to drain out nicely. First is the connection to the tranny cooler.

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Once seated, remove the clamp keeper. It will give a snap when the keeper is removed with pliers.
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
----------------------------PAGE THREE-----------------------------------

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It will be a good time to remove the connector bag and inspect both connectors for contaminants. The other half is tucked neatly up into the radiator fan guard.

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Gently reconnect the halves and make sure the locking ring give the tell tail snap that its locked.

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Routing as seen from above. The line will basically be true horizontal over to the oil cooler. Running under the lines going up to the tranny's aux cooler on the top section of the refrigerant condenser.

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The next piece is the main coolant line. Be sure to have some type of water based lube in the hose ends as it will make life a lot easier at this point. I use shop hand cleaner(without the scratchy stuff) to do the job. Have the magnet handy in case a keeper gets away!

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The last of the plumbing is on the oil cooler itself. The keepers are attached to the clamps, but still work the same. After the lines are on, Install the new oil filter after inspecting the inside..................One piece of debris here and it's a straight shot into the oil gallery's. (What a shame that would be to wipe a bearing for something that simple.) After inspecting be sure fill it slowly with new oil, waiting for all the air to get out.

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Refit the battery tray.

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Lube the battery posts. I use NO-OX paste to prevent corrosion. This will actually conduct as opposed to silicone based compounds.

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A little extra on top after the terminals are fit.

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Refill the crankcase and the coolant side. Double check for obvious leaks before starting the engine.While it is coming up to temp., go ahead and reprogram the radio. Making notes in the maintenance log is a good idea too. When the engine has reaches operating temp., shut it off and reinspect for leaks. The coolant system should have pressure and that will aid in leak detecting. Check the oil side of the oil cooler also.

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Once done, lube up the rubber sockets on the engine cover and reinstall it.

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Then lube up the 10mm fasteners for the splash shield or skid plate and put it back into position.

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Finally it's done except for rechecking the coolant level after it has cooled down and had a chance to draw from the catch tank. I like to repeat this a couple more times before taking any more than a ten minute ride to make sure I don't have to much air in the system. In this case of using the original coolant over again, You can't be too far off cause all the new plumbing can't add up to much anyway. I still filled the catch tank up to the brim though. Just to satisfy my curiosity of the coolant being drawn back in.

Open for questions,
hvac59
 
#7 · (Edited)
I would say not...

MINI, I would say no it isn't because I have it from the factory as part of the Tow prep and it most certainly does not tap into the oil pan drain (or am I missing something here? Is that something seperate?). It may be Mopar, but it's not the same as the factory version if it taps the drain pan.

After seeing that, I'm glad I went with the Tow prep package.
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
MrSensible & MINICooperS,
It is the EXACT same components. Bought directly from Mopar parts. It was not available early on due to DC's lag in assembling the required parts in a kit form. But, as you can see, it is now at a very reasonable price. That is considering that it is only half the package in regards to the TOW PREP GROUP. The other half being the tow bar and wiring harness. These components can be purchased for nearly the same $'s as the oil cooler kit and will give the added benifit of a 2" receiver and spare wiring run from the power center back to the spare tire area to boot!

As far as the oil drain valve is concerened(not in any way part of the kit or required for the cooler install), I thought I would kill three birds with one stone! That is do my first oil change, oil cooler install and retrofit the oil pan drain plug with a Fumoto valve to speed up oil changes in the future. I would have killed four birds if Chrysler LLC would get a engine skid I.D.'d so parts dept. can sell them outright..................I hope that clears up any misconceptions anyway.

hvac59
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Quite alright, I'm a technical type who has a little trouble illustrating a point some times. I tend to ramble on in geekbonics until someone says "what did you just say". It comes out in my post too! Anyway, here is another post I horned in on with small write up on the wiring harness install.
hvac59

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4460&page=2
 
#12 ·
hvac59 said:
I would have killed four birds if Chrysler LLC would get a engine skid I.D.'d so parts dept. can sell them outright
Click to expand...
they did.....PN 5105236AA (superseded to 5105236AB) is the "Engine/Trans Skid Plate" for MK's from 2007-2009. Mopar Retail List Price is $160.00

i ordered mine on 2/29/08.....along with the fuel tank skid plates (2, left and right), for my Compass. the tank shields are in......the engine/trans skid plate is coming from the "National PDC" and will take a couple more days.......i can't wait!!!!! :banana:

guess you can kill 'bird #4' now.......;)
 
#14 ·
hvac59 said:
Jeepster55,
Thanks x 100, I'll be ordering mine this week...............
hvac59
Click to expand...
you're welcome :)

if you want the fuel tank skid plates, their part numbers are 5105234AA and 5105235AA for right and left, respectively.

order your 5105236AB soon, as i said....there are currently only SEVEN in the country and i know "Gramps" is ordering one tomorrow. as i told him, as word gets out, these will go FAST!!! :smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#16 ·
will be doing my oil cooler install tomorrow morning - i hope it goes as smoothly as yours did hvac - will be using your tips
 
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#17 ·
Just did the install. Some notes I want to add:

- I got the manual transmission, so I could not use the coolant pipe going to the auto trans to empty the coolant fluid like hvac did. You then need to remove the front bumper cover and empty the rad from the lower right (passenger) corner. On that corner, you will see a little valve that you need to open to get the coolant out. (I re-used the coolant since it was not old).

- I removed the oil filter, and since the oil was changed two weeks ago, I reinstalled the same filter and did not empty the oil. I just topped it off afterwards.

- Finding the 12mm hex key was a pain for me in Quebec city. You have to find this tool before starting the installation, because if you don't have it you cannot do the install. You also absolutely need a torque wrench, because you really don't want the filter to unscrew itself... And you don't want to overtorque it and break the threads. ;)

That's it! Pipes are easy to route, you have plenty of room to work if you remove the air filter box, battery, underside cover and bumper cover. (Bumper cover is easy to remove, check on this forum for the method)

Readings from the scangauge: Scangauge was telling me that the water temp was about 81-84 deg C before the install. After the install, readings were going up to 88, but as low as 81. So I suspect that the oil heats up the water and therefore keeps the water a little warmer (this is expected, and proves that the heat exchange really happens).

So far, no more observations, but will post if I find changes.
 
#18 ·
hose clamps on small hoses attached to cooler

hose clamps on small hoses attached to cooler. Having trouble figuring these ones out. I take it i just have to pry them out and they'll snap in place. I was trying w/ some force and they didn't seem to be moving. Do i need a special tool or will needle nose pliers to the job? Any tricks probably something dumb on my part. I didn't want to apply to much force as not to bend anything on the cooler.
 
#19 ·
firestarter4x4 said:
hose clamps on small hoses attached to cooler. Having trouble figuring these ones out. I take it i just have to pry them out and they'll snap in place. I was trying w/ some force and they didn't seem to be moving. Do i need a special tool or will needle nose pliers to the job? Any tricks probably something dumb on my part. I didn't want to apply to much force as not to bend anything on the cooler.
Click to expand...
I used a flat head screwdriver. Put it between the two metal parts, and twist a little. You don't need to twist that much. Took some patience though!
 
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