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Question to people who use wheel spacers and Loctite

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SkiRush

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to switch from winter wheels to my Wrangler wheels. I use wheel spacers and they call for red Loctite (thread locker) on the lugnuts that mount the wheel spacer to the hub. I was wondering if you can tell me your method of using the Loctite.

When I've used it before, I dab a little on the threads on the insides of the lugnut and then install the lugnut. But, I have a feeling that this isn't the best method because it thins the Loctite out too much. I noticed when I took the wheel spacers off the last time to switch to winter rims, a few of the lugnuts were too easy to take off (others were really tight).

Should I but the Loctite on the bolt rather than the lugnut? Just wondering where you apply the Loctite to?


Thanks,
ski
 
#2 ·
I always put loctite on the bolt, specifically on the threads where the lug will end up. That being said, my spacers didn't call for loctite... the instructions said to remove the wheels every 25 miles for 200 miles to check the lugs.

When I removed the wheels and checked the spacers at 40 miles, and again at about 800 miles...both times the lugs were still at 103 ft-lbs. The lugs on the wheels did need to be tightened though...
 
#4 · (Edited)
I've found the best way is to apply it, as MrJeepR44 says, only to the male thread, and only to the threads that will be engaged. I use just enough that, when worked into the thread around the entire circumference and over the portion that will be used, barely fills the thread.

Also, I would use the blue rather than the red, unless I was absolutely sure that I would never be undoing that thread.

1STyEEpOWNER said:
... torque to manufacturer spec retighten after 100 miles.
Click to expand...
Re-tighten? That makes no sense. Are you sure that's what Loctite recommend?
 
#5 ·
Re-tighten? That makes no sense. Are you sure that's what Loctite recommend?[/QUOTE]

Ahhhh, you are correct, that's not for the loctite. My bad. That's just in the case of any aluminum wheels.

However, The blue isn't as solid. The red is much more reliable for something that you only want to remove every brake adjust or change. It withstands high heat from braking better as well.
No worries, it comes off just fine provided you have a breaker-bar, cheater-bar or air impact.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#6 ·
1STyEEpOWNER said:
...
However, The blue isn't as solid. The red is much more reliable for something that you only want to remove every brake adjust or change. It withstands high heat from braking better as well.
No worries, it comes off just fine provided you have a breaker-bar, cheater-bar or air impact.
Click to expand...
Temperature range of red and blue is identical. The only difference according to Loctite is the shear torque, and provided you correctly torque up the fastener in the first place, blue is adequately strong to prevent the fasteners from loosening.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
JoeP said:
Temperature range of red and blue is identical. The only difference according to Loctite is the shear torque, and provided you correctly torque up the fastener in the first place, blue is adequately strong to prevent the fasteners from loosening.
Click to expand...
I bought SpiderTrax wheel spacers/adapters. It came with red loctite and specifically said to use the red in the instructions. I agree it's a pain to get off, but...that's a good thing:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#10 ·
so weird question about loctite...ive never used it, but would it be helpful when installing speakers to keep the screws from loosening in the future? Or is that taking it too far haha?
 
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#11 ·
Brohio said:
so weird question about loctite...ive never used it, but would it be helpful when installing speakers to keep the screws from loosening in the future? Or is that taking it too far haha?
Click to expand...
Yes. That is a good use for it. In ur case however, ONLY use the blue. The red will cause the screws to tear up the plastic during removal. If its metal u can damage the threads cause they are so small.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#13 · (Edited)
1STyEEpOWNER said:
And by the way, it doesn't hurt regardless. Just because u don't feel it necessary, that doesn't make it wrong or pointless.
Click to expand...
If you actually read what I wrote you'd notice I never said anything about wrong or pointless.

The OP said he is changing from his winter wheels, it would be logical to assume that he'll want to change back next winter. The recommended method of removal for 271 involves heating the fasteners. In the vicinity of the fasteners are the wheel bearings; brake system components; brake pipes full of flammable fluid; and next to two of the four locations, the fuel tank. Now, I don't know about you, but I would hesitate to recommend using any heat in those areas unless there was little else in the way of options, and though I am quite happy for you to set about your own car with an open flame in your own garage, I would use the simpler option of the perfectly adequate 242.
 
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