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MIAMI4QUAD

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So i have had the same sub box in several vehicles one of the best overall setups i have ever had. Dont mind all the junk in the back LOL
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Unfortunantly the box takes up 1/4 of the cargo space in the back so it got me thinking about other options. I had 2 MTX 10" thunder 6000 series laying around i have not used in several years so i wanted to see if they would fit under the seat. There is about 7" of clearance from the floor to the seat the mounting depth for the speaker is around 5".
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Air spaced required for the speakers is 0.5-1.0 cuft for a sealed box Ideal space being 0.75 cuft. I took some preliminary measurements and figured i could make a box between 0.6-0.7 cuft.
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The box has a variable height which consits of 7" under the front seat and 3.75" of the rear passenger foot area. I have two kids they will not miss 4" off foot space trust me. And i can still sit comfortably in the back and the front seats have full function forward and back.
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I used 3/4" mdf for the box with wood glue and 1.5" brads. By far the most complicated and multipeiced boxes i have built like 12-14 peices. I thought of using glass for the bottom portion but didnt want to remove the seats to do so.
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I choose to go with downfire. I had a truck with a seal box downfire under the rear seat and it was a loud SOB
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As a side note the box is flush with the top of the plastic seat rail covers
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Tan carpet from Pepboys to keep it clean
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Installed i did not have the seats all the way back for these pictures so you can see the box.
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NEXT UP AMP LOCATION. I must say this was by far the easiest power wire and amp hook up i have ever done. And i have done alot of them. I looked around the engine bay to find a grommit or opening on the passenger side because i planned on mounting the amp under the passenger seat. So on the passenger side i find a small grommit for the rear window washline and ran the power wire there. Took literally less than 5 min to hook up the power line.
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final amp mounting location mounted to the rail under the seat
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So i ended up going with the stock headunit for now. I picked up a line out converter came off the rear passenger door harness for my line in. And let me tell you this thing knocks. I have a 600 watt MTX mono amp running both 10's at about 40% gain. This is a HUGE complement to the already bad a$$ BA system that came in the truck. Hope yall enjoy
 
What a great job! That looks like a lot of hours of solid work in just the boxes. I'm very impressed! :notworthy:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the comments guys. As i stated before the rear foot well itself is pretty deep. I have only taken 4" of this for the box height and pushed the footing area to around 12". I couldve pushed it farther forward giving more foot room but i was trying to keep everything square. Here are some better pictures showing the rear room with an adult in the back. I probably have 5-6 hours in the set up

seat back
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plenty of room for your feet to move around not cramped or flat footed.
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side shot showing height level with seat slider covers
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Ok.. I am definatley going to need your help so I can do something like this because I am hella iffy on if I want subs in the trunk or not because the spare tire is under that big ass flap thing.. :I Could I also get a list of everything you have? Because I am also trying to plan on what I can get to fit in the Pat to make it sound real good. I am for sure planning on 4 new 6x9s and a new deck. That's only $300. I don't know how much itd be for subs and an amp or how much more power I would need to support it. It looks like you know all of this so your help would mean ALOT.

Thank you.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
its a good choice and sounds clean as hell. It is a great option if you do not have adults piling in the back of your jeep every day. I have two kids so its not a big deal to loose the extra 3-4 inches in the foot well. As you can see from the pix with me in the back I am still sitting with my knees 90°. Opens up the little room we do have in the rear as you can see how much space my one 10" box would've taken up 25% of it. I can pull one out and get base measurements if you are interested. It is a complex box to say the least.
 
You're gonna need about another $250-$300 for a decent substage. Gotta figure, you need wire, sub, amp, material. Depends on how pretty you wanna go. Don't cheap out. Good sound is worth it. :D
 
Hrmm .... nice idea but I would of went with 8" subs and not removed the foot space. How do the seats go back and fourth?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
MIAMI4QUAD- Excellent build thread! Good work!

Any chance you could share your box measurements?
ill see about getting the measurements this weekend...

You're gonna need about another $250-$300 for a decent substage. Gotta figure, you need wire, sub, amp, material. Depends on how pretty you wanna go. Don't cheap out. Good sound is worth it.
so true if had to buy it all again there is probably a total of 500+ here. I already had the speakers and amp laying around from an old set up. So all I had was the cost of mdf, some carpet, and my time.. maybe 30$

Hrmm .... nice idea but I would of went with 8" subs and not removed the foot space. How do the seats go back and fourth?.
I measure and made the boxes for the seats to go all the way forward and back.
 
great thread ... beautiful build! I'm jealous -- I have too many adults in and out of my jeep to do a build like this, but my subs also aren't as deep as yours! :) but question... is there a diagram or anything you followed to put in your converter? I am installing my own system, and have been successful thus far (running battery line thru the door panel rather than drilling any holes) but now i'm at a loss. I bought a converter and got some good advice from a local shop, but I'm not sure which wires to tap into it.
 
MIAMI4QUAD;

Nice job. I used to build cabinets and do finish carpentry so I appreciate a job well done. You are a braver man than I am using the MDF. That stuff has way too much dust for me when you cut it. I would have gone plywood to keep the dust down and also to keep it lighter.

I am curious though why you needed to have the section in the footwell? Why not just keep it all under the seat? I must be missing something?
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
great thread ... beautiful build! I'm jealous -- I have too many adults in and out of my jeep to do a build like this, but my subs also aren't as deep as yours! :) but question... is there a diagram or anything you followed to put in your converter? I am installing my own system, and have been successful thus far (running battery line thru the door panel rather than drilling any holes) but now i'm at a loss. I bought a converter and got some good advice from a local shop, but I'm not sure which wires to tap into it.
by converter do you mean power inverter? the best way to run a main power line from the hood compartment is thru the passenger side. There is a rubber grommet on the fire wall where the washer fluid line runs for the back just pull the grommet out run your power cable the push the grommet back in as best you can. The you can run the line down the door sill panels to under the seat or back to the back. For a ground I came of one of the seat bolts. hope this helps if not let me know.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
MIAMI4QUAD;

Nice job. I used to build cabinets and do finish carpentry so I appreciate a job well done. You are a braver man than I am using the MDF. That stuff has way too much dust for me when you cut it. I would have gone plywood to keep the dust down and also to keep it lighter.

I am curious though why you needed to have the section in the footwell? Why not just keep it all under the seat? I must be missing something?
The box is extended for air space only. I created a space of about .75 cubic foot with this box configuration. There area under the seat would yield maybe half that which may work for some 8" woofers. And back in the day I made a box out of plywood until I found MDF. All woofer boxes are made from MDF or fiberglass for density and sound response.
 
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