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Couple pics.... new lift and Rock sliders.

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#21 ·
Looks great... When does the kit go out for sale? Or is it already up on the website?
 
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#23 ·
hayabusa007 said:
I want to know how the 15 inch wheels fit. Did they clear the calipers when mounted ?

I tried some 15" Rock Crawlers, and they barley hit the calipers . They needed about 1/8" more to clear.

I just don't understand this big rim thing on a 4x4. Hit a rock, bend a rim.:mad: I like a lot of side wall.
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A couple of reasons people mount biggers wheels (wider) are to increase the stance for more stability and fit bigger tires properly. Most of the time, if a rock is going to cause trail damage, it will do so with just about any rim size. Of course some do it for the "Cool Factor" too;). A taller/wider tire will sometimes save the rock damage tho
 
#24 ·
mikehammah said:
Well Darby, I didn't have 225's so here's some pics from when I was playing in my garage with 245's on moabs. They actually don't hit anything until you turn the wheel. Can't wait for my lift kit!
-Mike

Image
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You should jack that up 2" with those wheels on it and see how it fits...four jackstands would be the best...would give you a pretty good idea about the fit:smiley_thumbs_up:
 
#27 ·
jackster said:
That's the intention Darby, since he said
Click to expand...
He meant now with jack stands while he has it in the garage.
Then snap some pics so we can all see what the lift+tires will look like together before he has it done.

Jim
 
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#28 · (Edited)
Hey... lift sounds great!!! Thats exactly what I was thinking!! ..... I was wondering what it would look like without the lift but instead bigger tires!!!.... Im not sure Im ready to commit to a lift but I would expect to get the same kind of outcome with larger tires. Does any one happen to know what the biggest size is i could throw on without having to trim, change, lift or add anything??? My Pat has 17"ers right now... dealer upgrade
 
#29 ·
nearly.normal.jimmy said:
He meant now with jack stands while he has it in the garage.
Then snap some pics so we can all see what the lift+tires will look like together before he has it done.

Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing that up for jackster...lol...he was busy trying to be right...
 
#33 ·
What about the bigger tires, do you find it under powered for them?
 
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#34 ·
It definitely still has some kinks that need to be worked out. Its making a few noises that could bring up some concerns. I have emailed Rocky Road to see if this is something that can be corrected or if the lift will not work at all. I attempted to put some larger tires on, but the 15" rims on the tires were to small for the mount. Meaning, My car would not drive or reverse because they mounts would not spin. It looked pretty sweet though, so I hope it works. Also, I noticed that the steering is a bit sketchy which I also brought up with Rocky Road. I haven't heard back from them yet, but will work with them to see if there is a solutions. As far as the suspension, it doesn't seem to be much stiffer, but I might be wrong.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Depends on how they lifted it...If they used internal pucs(they probably didn't unless they could modify some existing ones) it will be stiffer most of the time...if they used the dreaded OTT(Over The Top) spacers, be careful...the KJs had numerous problems with them...if they made new springs to attain the lift it would probably ride better(probably didn't have the time to make custon springs)...they could have made a "clevis" style lift that moves the strut higher on the clevis. Make sure those sounds are not the UCA/UBJ (Upper Control Arms/Upper Ball Joint) contacting the strut assembly.

I hate to say it but the first lifts out usually have growing pains...pay close attention to the upper control arms to see if they contact the front strut when they are at full droop...can use a floor jack to get an idea.

The easiest way for someone here to gain "some" lift would be to make a top plate that is only 1/4" to 5/8" thick so the stock strut bolts are still long enough to thread. Then you could adjust the clevis up 1/4" to 5/8" to gain some more lift. On IFS/IRS the total lift gained would be larger than the adjustments by about 1.25x...so 10/8" would be about 13/8" which is right at 1.5" or so. It would cost next to nothing and you would keep the stock ride qualities. It would also be easy to remove if you think your dealer would frown upon it for warranty reasons...most of the time they would not know what exactly you did ;)
 
#37 · (Edited)
#38 ·
I got it back and the noises have been taken care of. The steering is a bit looser, so if anyone has Ideas to tighten them, that would be great. It rides pretty good. I am pretty happy with it. I am looking into getting some larger tires and plan on testing the ride with those next, to see how it handles.

"pay close attention to the upper control arms to see if they contact the front strut when they are at full droop" Darby, what would this sound like, if the upper control arm does come in contact with the front strut?
 
#39 · (Edited)
You would probably hear a clunk (it would have to be a situation that full droop or close to that would happen). You can jack up the front of your Patriot and let the wheels hang down...then look at the UBJ and see how close it comes to the strut assembly...If it touchs, you need to do something to remedy that...If you can see an inch of daylight you are probably OK.
 
#40 ·
I'll have to take a look at it. With the steering, is there any way to tighten it a bit. I have been experiencing some "bump steer". I hear this is common on lifted vehicles, but since the Patriot has rack and pinion steering, I haven't been able to find a steering stabilizer for it. Anyone know where to find one? I think that if this can be corrected, then the lift would be completed. But I would have to let Rocky Road know and they would make the decision from there.
 
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