Can anybody give me a part number for my turbo actuator ? Its a 2007 crd 4x4 2 litre LTD . The turbo has stopped working at full boost most of the time but occasionally it will so I'm assuming the actuator is at fault . The vacuum pipe seems in good condition and everything else is working ok . No smoke n no other problems . The EGR is not working but this will not I assume affect the turbo . TIA n good wishes to you all
Turbo actuator .
mrrjbooth
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Can anybody give me a part number for my turbo actuator ? Its a 2007 crd 4x4 2 litre LTD . The turbo has stopped working at full boost most of the time but occasionally it will so I'm assuming the actuator is at fault . The vacuum pipe seems in good condition and everything else is working ok . No smoke n no other problems . The EGR is not working but this will not I assume affect the turbo . TIA n good wishes to you all
Send the turbo to a specialist shop for rebuilding, they will know which actuator you need. You cannot change the actuator at home because the turbo must be adjusted on the special adjustment bench.
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I have just been through the same. A failed actuator vacuum can will create a DTC code in the Powertrain module. If there's no trouble code, use a good ODB2 tool (I used a Thinkcar bluetooth tool) to operate the VNT actuator with the engine running. Operate it from 0 to 100% and watch it. (Raise the offside front of your car and remove the road wheel. Lay on the ground and you can easily view the operation of the actuator.) If it's moving its full range with no issue then the problem is not with the actuator. If it didn't move at all, with the engine not running, you can operate the actuator it's full range by hand. If it doesn't move or is very difficult to move the turbo will need removing to de-coke it. If it does move by hand but not when commanded by your diag tool of choice, then apply a hand held vacuum pump to the actuator vacuum connector and check that it can be operated by the hand pump. If not, it is busted and you need a new one. You can change the actuator with the turbo in situ. If it does operate with the vacuum pump, the vacuum line may be broken. To verify this, remove the resonator box on top of the Battery to see the vacuum solenoid module. Unplug its cover using the metal spring clip and again apply hand vacuum pump pressure to the line which goes to the turbo VNT actuator. If no vacuum can be pulled then the vacuum hose is damaged and needs replacing. If you can operate the actuator from the solenoid end, then the solenoid is internally failing and needs replacing, or there is a control issue with it, or the tandem pump vacuum is low etc....
You don't need some specialist to adjust the VNT actuator - workshop manual gives the specific vacuum values required for 1% movement and 100%. Invest in a handheld vacuum pump or get someone to test it for you.
As you say the EGR isn't working, remember that the EGR and the Turbo Actuator are both controlled using vacuum from the vacuum solenoid module - so smells like the problem is there.
You don't need some specialist to adjust the VNT actuator - workshop manual gives the specific vacuum values required for 1% movement and 100%. Invest in a handheld vacuum pump or get someone to test it for you.
As you say the EGR isn't working, remember that the EGR and the Turbo Actuator are both controlled using vacuum from the vacuum solenoid module - so smells like the problem is there.
If you change the VNT actuator, it must be adjusted. Adjustment on the car is almost impossible. Do you know where the turbo unit is located?
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Yes. It's readily accessible under the car on stands with the front wheel removed. But hey, f that, you're right, ignore me, take it off and post it to someone and see what happens.
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Thanks for all the info guys . Today as the ambient temperature is around 23 C the turbo is working fine once the car has warmed up slightly . I'm at a bit of a loss as it seems to be according to outside temp . It pulls well when the turbo operates properly . Is there a plug on the actuator or does it operate from the module vacuum only ?
I cant get under the car myself easily and I'm waiting until my son in law has a little time to put it on his hoist at his welding workshop . He also has a decent OBDII reader and last time it was on it is when the egr fault came up . I think this is the actuator but I'm unsure
eBay item number:
153889408128
UK eBay . Unsure if same over in The States .
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I cant get under the car myself easily and I'm waiting until my son in law has a little time to put it on his hoist at his welding workshop . He also has a decent OBDII reader and last time it was on it is when the egr fault came up . I think this is the actuator but I'm unsure
eBay item number:
153889408128
UK eBay . Unsure if same over in The States .
It seems to me to be more of a vacuum problem, if it really is as you say that the problem is in the turbo area. On my Jeep, I reconditioned the turbo 1 year ago and I notice a problem with it again, which I think is caused by the lack of vacuum. The vacuum distributor makes a strange noise after stopping the engine at ambient temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius.
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I'm not 100% as of yet but I'm thinking the problem is the connector to the vacuum pump,the wire side. It does not lock into position so I'm thinking the plug is broken . I can't find any sort of locking mech on either side o the plug so gonna zip tie it in position
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