Jeep Patriot Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Cargo Lights

Tags
cargo lights
Jump to Latest
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

zapkk

· Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Last night, while driving home, I was on the final stretch of my journey, a roughly 2 mile stretch of dirt road. Since I was the only person on the road going both ways, I lit up all of my lights; fogs, driving lights, high beams (I think), and although I think all that light would've further blinded a bat, I feel that it doesn't quite reach high enough along the tree line. Which got me thinking:

The luggage rails start quite some distance back from the windshield, unlike most vehicles, including my Cherokee, which has lights on the luggage racks. Since the purpose here (for me, at least) isn't really to illuminate the road, but rather illuminate whats out farther ahead and above, why wouldn't it be feasible to mount lights on the rails themselves? I don't necessarily want four across, all I would need is two, and if that works well, I could probably mount another pair on the rear for when I need to see what's behind me.

If there's already this kind of system out there somewhere, and someone knows where it is, could they please reply with a link? I'd really appreciate it. Any other info anyone can provide is also appreciated. I'm gunna go ahead and make a stab at it if I can't find anything, and if that happens, I'll definitely post some pictures of installation and final look.

Thanks ya'll!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
That was interesting, thank you for that link. I'm going to look into brighter reverse lights, definitely, but it's not really what I meant. I will admit, it was kind of confusing.

I grabbed a picture off Google and edited it; I circled where I think lights should go.

i95.photobucket. com/albums/l141/loser_killer/raillights.jpg

(remove space between "." & "com")

Thanks again
 
#4 ·
Well, at least on mine, when you turn on the high beams the fog lights go off, but come back on when you switch back to low beams. Of course if you're driving in fog you shouldn't be using high beams anyway.

Higher lights would be great for off-road, to light up what's ahead better, especially when going up hill, into gulleys, etc.

Someone should make something like a cargo hauler that fits on top of the roof rails. I would make one that fits flush to the roof, esecially in the front, and tapers down to meet the front of the roof, eliminating the drag and wind noise. Maybe the full length of the roof. They could have Aux. lights up front, or at least brackets to make it easier, and maybe in the rear too.

(crosses fingers that some manufacturer reads this)
 
#5 ·
Why would you " I Think" About Main beam??? If your bright blue idiot light was lit up on your dash then yep you are on High( Main as we call it over here)Beam.....You really gotta read your Handbook!!!
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #6 ·
To Tiptronic, with respect, I wasn't paying attention to the dash, I was taking in what I was seeing ahead of me. You're right, the fogs do go off, but either way, I wasn't paying attention to them. Please remember that I was in a two mile stretch and was trying to make the most of it. I've read the manual beginning to finish. I'm an engineer for Christ's sake, I don't have anything better to do!

To Dixiedawg, you are correct, and I agree. That was another situation I was trying to foresee. I've needed them numerous times, and had to resort to getting out and using a flood light outside of the vehicle, which could be bad if I was in a situation that I needed to keep moving for.

In honesty, I don't really need a cargo cage on my roof. I have two other vehicles with racks that would fill the need. Not like I wouldn't mind though, I'm sure it would look killer with my lift!
 
#9 ·
Most auxilury lights mount with a single stud on the bottom. Your best bet would be to get some crossmembers for the cargo rack. Then simply drill holes in them and mount whatever lights you like. Plus they would be removable.

That is the easy part. Then getting power there would be the next trick. You will need to find a source with enough amperage. Do not use the lighter plug.

Some of the other members have added high amp accessories. Perhaps they can help out with some of the places to tap into stronger power.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited by Moderator)
The lights do usually mount to the bottom. And I just had an idea; the mounting hardware of the rails to the roof, are there specifications for that? Is it just bolt on or is there a nut somewhere under the rails? I'd assume there would be mounting hardware at least in the beginning and the ends of the rails, why couldn't we use that to our advantage! Since I don't plan on putting any racks or luggage boxes on the roof rails any time soon, I wouldn't be worried about structural integrity, or for that matter extra drilling.

Image


Rough rendering, but a general idea?

Also, I looked around a little, and I think that the KC Hilites 50 Series would be a good selection. KC makes a good product, I've used them before. A member of the 50 Series is the off road package, sporting 200,000 candle power (up from 90,000 in the driving package), a 100 watt halogen bulb, and a 40 amp relay, but if I go this path, I will be purchasing a fuse as well.

Thanks for the good points
Image
 
#11 ·
i wouldnt mess with rail mounts

zapkk said:
The lights do usually mount to the bottom. And I just had an idea; the mounting hardware of the rails to the roof, are there specifications for that? Is it just bolt on or is there a nut somewhere under the rails? I'd assume there would be mounting hardware at least in the beginning and the ends of the rails, why couldn't we use that to our advantage! Since I don't plan on putting any racks or luggage boxes on the roof rails any time soon, I wouldn't be worried about structural integrity, or for that matter extra drilling.
Image
Click to expand...
There are caps with 2 bolts at each end,
without caps, and messing with those bolts will risk water leaks,
and we know how Pat likes water leaks,
i would recomend cross bars to mount the lights to,

i currently have Mopar roof basket,
and thinking lights for the roof myself,
for my basket am thinking of removing the plastic wind screen and bolting lights directly to the front of the basket,
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Haha. Leaks are a very valid point. And considering that I live in Florida where it hasn't been a full day without a bit of rain, I think I'm really gambling by messing with OEM hardware.

Might end up just drilling the rails after all. That's good idea, what-with the basket lights. Keep in mind, driving lights are usually everything BUT aerodynamic, and depending on the light you use, you might want to keep some of the windscreen in tact at least behind the light housings so they don't get blown around and misalligned.
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
I sacrificed my son's patriot to lab-rat duty while he's away in Mexico before he goes to college.

Pictures:
Image


Image


Image


Still to come: night shots.

EDIT: His windows are super tinted and the mini-light bar suction-cupped to the windshield are all work-related.
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
neamih said:
or they simply look horrible
Click to expand...
Did you even take the time to read the post, instead of just skipping down to the pictures? That is not my Pat, it is my son's. MY Pat already has driving lights on the bumper. I have since added the cargo lights. Please read the entire post before making rude, snide remarks such as this without having some kind of advice. Otherwise you're just another ass behind a keyboard. Honestly, its offensive.

To others following the post:

The installation ultimately cost me about 60$ in hardware and I did all the labor myself. Leaks have not yet been a problem, and I don't expect them to be any time soon, because I used sealant and did not drill any additional holes.

If you'd like me to post step-by-step instructions, please reply to the thread after making sure you have the right tools and equipment to ensure you do this correctly. You will need:

  • Dremel kit, with rotary cutter, sander and steel brush attatchments
  • Pliers or wire cutters with crimpers
  • Approx. 15 feet auto-grade* 12-16 gauge wire
  • Appropriate wire nuts or, more preferably, connectors
  • Fish tape
  • Star-key set
  • (opt) Stainless steel hinges w/ appropriate dimensions** and hardware
  • Smaller size flex tube or anything similar, its only aesthetic.
  • Amperage appropriate fuse
  • Non-momentary contact toggle, rocker or push button switch(s)
  • Female connectors that fit your switch & wire gauge

*Auto-grade = resistant to heat and the petroleum based liquids gas & oil
**The hinge is optional and just something I did for ease of access to the mounting hardware and minimizes alteration of the vehicle. The size ultimately depends on the dimensions of your light bracket.

EDIT: I don't know why I said the installation cost me $60, it actually ended up being about double that, $120 or so. If you use brighter lights, the cost will go up. These lights were about $45 a pop. Wire and other hardware cost me $30. I had material left over that I used in my employment.
 
#17 · (Edited)
dixiedawg said:
Well, at least on mine, when you turn on the high beams the fog lights go off, but come back on when you switch back to low beams.
Click to expand...
I'd like to add that this is the case only if you're in the country (or state) where the law says it must work like this. My standard Patriot fog lights stay on and they're supposed to do so.

There are some stupid laws in every country, I'm sure, and isn't that one of yours? I mean, what harm could fog lights with high beams do?? With lo beams they could dazzle on-coming cars but not with high's...

We also have rear fog lights with every car... (With older cars only one rear fog light was allowed but now both can be operational.) However, the rules about using fog lights are very strict. They can only be used in fog or serious snowstorm. Rear fog lights can also be used if snow dust from side of the road seems to cover rear lights and there we have problem with Patriot: Rear fogs can only be turned on when front fogs are already on. There is no option for rear fogs only, which would be the legal option in the snow dust situations described above.

(Went little off-topic, sorry about that.)
 
#18 ·
In the UK Front fogs go off with high beam ( Legal requirement) & even if you dont have front fogs all cars have to be fitted with rear ( BrightRed) fogs. ( Legal Requirement).However front & rear fogs may only be used in Foggy weather!! not for general road use. The UK police are pretty hot on this law!
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
About this Discussion
17 Replies
10 Participants
Last post:
tiptronic
Jeep Patriot Forums
posts
678K
members
55K
Since
2006
Join our community to discuss the Jeep Patriot & Jeep Compass. Find answers to all your Jeep Patriot technical questions.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Jeep Patriot General Discussion Engine and Drivetrain Newbie Check-In Suspension and Tires Electrical and Audio