I recently noticed when i make a pretty hard left turn, either going slow or fast at like 20 MPH, I hear a clicking noise. Or almost like a chopping sound but nothing with i turn right or go straight. I have had my control arm replaced in the past, not sure if it's that again, but was curious for thoughts on what it could be and if so how dangerous it could be. I'm due for inspection in 2 months. Thanks in advance.
mbu5003
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I recently noticed when i make a pretty hard left turn, either going slow or fast at like 20 MPH, I hear a clicking noise. Or almost like a chopping sound but nothing with i turn right or go straight. I have had my control arm replaced in the past, not sure if it's that again, but was curious for thoughts on what it could be and if so how dangerous it could be. I'm due for inspection in 2 months. Thanks in advance.
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The noise will get progressively worse, it may pass inspection if there isn't a road test portion. You still need a professional diagnosis though, no-one here has a crystal ball.
A new aftermarket axle assembly is about $100. Labour I have no idea, I tend to do my own repairs but ballpark I'm guessing 3 hours or so.
The output shaft seal should be done at the same time so that will require a trans fluid top-up. Ignore it's replacement at your peril. If the original seal leaks after the new axle is installed the labour charge will be double in total to replace it.
A new aftermarket axle assembly is about $100. Labour I have no idea, I tend to do my own repairs but ballpark I'm guessing 3 hours or so.
The output shaft seal should be done at the same time so that will require a trans fluid top-up. Ignore it's replacement at your peril. If the original seal leaks after the new axle is installed the labour charge will be double in total to replace it.
There is supposed to be a road test for inspection in PA, but some shops do it and some don't, here in PA it largely depends on the shop and tech how good the inspection is, the state police do surprise "spot checks" (often involving undercover officers bring in a car that should fail to test the shop), but these only hit a small percentage of shops, so some shops get away with pocketing the inspection fee and doing a half-assed job for years (of course if someone gets hurt/killed due to them passing a vehicle that should have failed they open themselves to major liability).
Here's a link to the PA inspection manual, a reputable shop should follow it (Subchapter E, P33-47 contains the inspection process for passenger vehicles): http://www.dot.state.pa.us/Public/DVSPubsForms/BMV/BMV%20Manuals/Pub_45%20Inspections%20Regulations/PUB-45.pdf This is also a good reference, since some slime-ball shops will try to fail you for things that shouldn't, I've had shops try that more than once, I take a copy of the manual when I go in for in section and love shoving it in their face when they try that crap (and then of course I'll never use that shop again afterwards).
In any case it is something that needs fixed, if it is a failing CV axle it will leave you stranded someplace (per Murphy's law likely in the middle of no where, with no cell reception and a 10 mile walk to the nearest service station).
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