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Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Seeing your old vehicle on the road is always a treat. Last year I found 2 of my old vehicles in separate junk yards! They were piles of junk when I sold/totaled them, so I'm not surprised at all. lol

I keep having that thought in my head though to sell the 08 once its on the road and not put much into it money-wise... Combination of I want to buy my first home or build a race truck pre-runner style... Either way the 08 will be fixed and on the road but do I get rid of a stock vehicle or marry another one?

Here's a lil look at what I found though:
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Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
Transmission swap started today. It hovers below 0C here before noon so I only worked on it for a few hours, but mostly everything is out of the way. Tomorrow I have a sensor, bell housing bolts, cross member, 2 mounts, inspection plate to mark the torque converter, and I should be ready to pull it out.

I think I've figured out a way to get some struts installed that have 1" more travel for a reasonable price it involves different front control arms and sway bar link relocation(mostly bolt in, if not all) but I'm thinking with this suspension setup it would be minimum $1500 and upwards to $2000. Just not sure if it's worth it for 1" more suspension travel and a 2" lift.

Either way suspension build or not I expect to be driving Frosty be the end of the week.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Either way suspension build or not I expect to be driving Frosty be the end of the week.
Well that didn't pan out as expected. One bad motor mount stopped progress, then work happened. Oh well soon it will happen. It is mostly wrapped up, I have heard it run twice now. But won't be much progress until mid to late January.

It isn't worth it, 1 more inch of travel isn't really going to help much...........but you are kinda crazy so I could see you doing it =)
It's totally worth it. Struts aren't much of a price difference.

But since my last post on this thread plans have changed a wee bit.

I've just bought a house and I had been thinking about getting rid of both patriots to get a bigger jeep but the garage door is too short. :doh: lol Oh well I wasn't really set on starting a new build on a new platform anyways. Plus the 2010 will be paid off next year and Frosty all paid for, so really might as well drive them till they die.

So on with Frosty!

I've found adjustable rear lower control arms, camber arms and toe links. All have pillowball mounts instead of rubber bushings so those should be tougher than stock or anything else available. But not cheap $1210 just for those.
I've already talked to the supplier and will be on order very shortly.

I just came across an adjustable coil over lift kit for a similar vehicle and I'm gonna work on confirming fitment now. I don't know much on spec yet either but I'm working on that too.

I'm trying to find anything that could help the Patriot out in any way possible. But I think for the most part the trick will be trying to free up some power and lighten the vehicle. Nothing too extreme since it will still be road-worthy but enough to make it a bad azz Riot.

Removing the AC, adding AEM intake and possibly trying a lightened crank pulley will be a start with the motor.

At this point with all the plans I have for my first home and Frosty, I can't decide which I'm more excited for!

I can't wait for everything to start coming together.
 
I'm trying to find anything that could help the Patriot out in any way possible. But I think for the most part the trick will be trying to free up some power and lighten the vehicle. Nothing too extreme since it will still be road-worthy but enough to make it a bad azz Riot.

Removing the AC, adding AEM intake and possibly trying a lightened crank pulley will be a start with the motor.

At this point with all the plans I have for my first home and Frosty, I can't decide which I'm more excited for!

I can't wait for everything to start coming together.
I guess removing the door panels and carpeting wouldn't save much weight. :) But it'd be pretty cool. Just strip it down to the pure essence. And if it has power windows, not having door panels would make future repairs to the regulator/motor simple.
 
if you go beyond 2.x inches how are you going to address axle and cv angles and bind? oh. and get a set of jeep steelie wheels and paint them white...will look killer on it.

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Discussion starter · #30 ·
if you go beyond 2.x inches how are you going to address axle and cv angles and bind? oh. and get a set of jeep steelie wheels and paint them white...will look killer on it.

Image
Well you see that 2" mark has been set by models that sit 1" higher than Frosty. But I don't intend to exceed those limits quite yet, not sure if that's part of the end goal either at this point. The main goal of what I'm doing right now is maximize the amount of strut travel to gain some flex. Better traction to the ground should be a big help to it. I'm also trying to find ways to widen the stance more than to lift higher.

One day(probly not anytime soon), I'd love to swap in the 3.0l Mivec motor so I don't want to go through too much just to do it twice.

And I'm totally on page with the white wheels. Just gotta find some I like, hoping for 15s... but I would settle for 16s if I find something I like.

Maybe sell/trade away some of the parts you won't need, to offset cost?
Actually Tyler has been eyeing up the AC system in Frosty since I picked it up lol.



Also some good news. The company that's make an adjustable lift is going to help me confirm fitment, so we just may have another manufacturer of lift kits for the MK platform very shortly. But they tossed the thought out there of a one off lift for me, which I might go for but again not for height but for suspension travel. If I can get even just 2" more travel than stock with the 2"ish lift, why not? Couple other small things and this thing could really go places.
 
Make up some quick discos for the swaybars. Lots of travel to had there.
 
It will be sketchy without swaybars on the road. I bet you can rig up a set of disco's easy enough. You can buy little kits for the JK where its just pins and cotters. So, I would have a look at those.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I realize it might be sketchy on the road, but a few other members have ran fully disconnected before. So I'm thinking I just want to try it for myself too. I might just end back at quick disconnects if I don't like the way it drives without.

I saw these rims last night and I think these ones might be the ones for me to find for Frosty.
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I think these would look great to match the all white look and give it a classic feel.
 
nice...Cherokee country wheels. good choice. for the 20 bucks it cost, I would just pick up the pins and swap out the bolts...done in 30 mins.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
...done in 30 mins.
Well that's no fun lol, I want to mess around with it. I just have a feeling it's not going to be as sketchy as either of us could think with the bars removed. It's not like the suspension is super soft or flex's a whole heck of a lot. I just think it's something interesting that I'd like to try.
 
Ha ha. for sure. You would be surprised how sloppy she will be without them. But giver a go, you know the fix is simple...and once off road, pull the swaybar links and away ya go!
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Ya, we'll see what happens with all that as I do my experimenting lol.

A thought that had crossed my mind though also was that some Outlanders have the sway bar links mount to the control arms. Would there be any benefit to have them mount that way instead of on the strut(on the front)? I'm curious.
 
Nope. Just different ways of mounting...
 
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