Jeep Patriot Forums banner
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
I'm about to do this tonight. I did my wife's Galant a month or so ago, they use the same part number for pads, and coincidentally noticed the pictures here showed said Mitsubishi Galant on the box. More proof they share the same basic platform.
 
Ok I had no luck. After taking the two bolts out I couldn't get the caliper off. It felt like it was sort of spring loaded. I'd pull on it and it would snap back on to place.

I fought with it an hour before giving up.

Sent from my VS920 4G using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
Stonent, I'm a little late to the party, but I wanted to add this to this excellent thread. On my '09 (? others) my pads had 3 little "tits" on the backs of the pads. These tits get caught on the rim of the piston and you can't slide the caliper off. What I did was push the caliper/piston towards the inner pad in order to compress the piston just enough to get it past these tits. I figured this out by pure dumb luck. What a piss-poor design! How are people supposed to know this. :doh:

Brake Pad Tits (non x-rated)
 

Attachments

Yeah finally got around to doing it last weekend. And it was the little tits that were in the way. I found a large C clamp and put it around the caliper and pressed it in a little and that freed it up. Technically I didn't need new brakes yet, but I went ahead anyway since I had them.

Mine didn't have shims on it though...Hmm.
 
Mine didn't have shims on it though...Hmm.
Yeah, mine didn't have shims either. I spent a few minutes trying to pry the metal backing off of the old pads with a screwdriver before I realized they didn't come off. I put my new pads, Wagner ThermoQuiet, in without shims, which the instructions said they did not need.

I guess the '09's are a little different than the '08's in the original post. I still think it's a stupid idea to put those little tits on the pads so people can't get them off like normal brake pads. Leave it to the Chrysler geniuses that are also responsible for the leaky roofs and lack of tow hooks on every Jeep model :mad::mad::mad:

p.s. - I have the same Jeep green w/wheel package as you! Looking good! :smiley_thumbs_up:
 
upper slide sheathed

the upper slide bolt for the caliper is the one with sheath, or rubber gasket at the end.


Someone should post torque settings, I think it is 32lbs for the caliper slide bots and 100 for lugs, but not sure of the caliper bracket bolts, thinking 80lbs?
 
Stonent, I'm a little late to the party, but I wanted to add this to this excellent thread. On my '09 (? others) my pads had 3 little "tits" on the backs of the pads. These tits get caught on the rim of the piston and you can't slide the caliper off. What I did was push the caliper/piston towards the inner pad in order to compress the piston just enough to get it past these tits. I figured this out by pure dumb luck. What a piss-poor design! How are people supposed to know this. :doh:

Brake Pad Tits (non x-rated)
That got me as well but don't blame Chrysler.

AFAIK, the design is Mitsubishi as used on the Outlander, Shogun and Grandis.
 
Thanks for the info. I was able to change the pads on the front of my patriot with no problems!! :)
 
Is there any way to know the size of your rear discs without measuring? Mine appear to be 320, but I could be lying. VIN is 1J4FF48B89D102023
 
My discs look ok, but there is a lip on the outer edge of all 4. The questions I have are, can I use the same rotors without having them machined, how much should machining cost, and Centric rotors are only $40-should I just change them?
 
My discs look ok, but there is a lip on the outer edge of all 4. The questions I have are, can I use the same rotors without having them machined, how much should machining cost, and Centric rotors are only $40-should I just change them?
depending on how bad the lip is, and where it hits your new pads, it could cause vibration/warping/improper wear/ and limited contact patch so poor breaking performance. machining can be expensive. its often cheaper to just replace. You can sometimes sell the old rotors to a scrapper for some of your $ back. they buy them for a couple of bucks a lb.
 
My discs look ok, but there is a lip on the outer edge of all 4. The questions I have are, can I use the same rotors without having them machined, how much should machining cost, and Centric rotors are only $40-should I just change them?
Where I'm from, having rotors turned (machined) is not expensive...something like 8-10 dollars each. if you decide to buy new, they usually want your old ones or you'll pay extra (core charge).

Compare in your area to the cost of buying new ones before you decide.
Also if the lip you're referring to doesn't touch the pads at all, they shouldn't be a problem.
Griff
 
Never seen anywhere that required a core for rotors, iron is cheap which is why.

As far as turning, read this thread:
http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=203921&highlight=turn+rotors

Turning is about $20 a rotor which is around the same at any parts store or online for a new one. I just bought front and rear rotors (drilled/slotted/zinc coated) with all ceramic pads for under $150 shipped that I am installing this weekend . I couldn't imaging turning the beat up ones I got on their now and for $80+ tax!

Here you go, $135 shipped for all 4 pads/rotors shipped to your door.

But your best bet is getting them from Advanced Auto for about the same price and here is a $40 off coupon ;)
http://procouponcode.com/advance-auto-parts-coupon-code

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...ep Patriot Forums&txt=http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-K...407ad0&vxp=mtr

Image
 
You guys are right...I'm in the dark ages...I think I last did brakes in the 90's and they were drums, lol.......

They make everything thinner now for less weight - gas mileage purposes- and if they can get away with it, they'll use plastic.
 
Thanks! They don't interfere with the pads.
 
21 - 40 of 56 Posts