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Treegrower, can you provide a link to the diagram you mentioned?
What i need is a real electrical schematic of the head light circuit.

Just downloaded a PDF file per sandstone's link.
Its the fuse layout on the 2014 TIPM..... so thats where the fuses are!
Head light washer fuse but no main head light fuse shown that i can see.

This 'is' getting interesting.
BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams
Click on Wiring Diagrams
Click on Make, Model, Year, engine
System: Lighting
Sub System: Exterior
Click Search: 1 diagram found


You can download the entire owners manual pdf online. The fuse box description is on page 484: https://www.jeep.com/download/pdf/manuals/2014-Patriot-OM-2nd.pdf?myyear
 

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Thanks Treegrower, got it!

I'll tell you what during my career i've designed untold uProc. electronic, electrical and relay circuits and created created schematics for each and every one of them.
Also read hundreds of other's schematics for troubleshooting their circuitry.
I clicked in my 2014 to pull the diagram up and its kind of a mystery to me.

I concentrated on the left low beam and the TIPM 'driver' output.
Now in electronics lingo a 'driver' output usually means it directly energizes the intended device by either supplying voltage or a ground to the device.
However in some cases a 'driver' can mean an output to energize a relay which in turn operates the device.
Per this diagram its obviously supplying B+ to the headlight assembly.

But wait the plot thickens.
There are are two left low beam TIPM driver outputs shown with the same pin numbers and two left low beam headlight assemblies each having different pin numbers.
Only thing i can surmise is one of the head light assemblies is intended for running lights albeit my 2014 Latitude doesn't have running lights... maybe an option on certain trim levels?

In addition there is no fusing for the left low beam headlight shown which at first glance is strange.
Either its a basic block diagram or the TIPM outputs are current limited/short circuit proof.

According to that diagram alone, it appears there is no headlight relay unless its embedded in the headlight assembly or elsewhere.
Keep in mind that could be a basic block diagram as its labeled 'Base' for some reason which deletes fuses, relays and other details.

So back where we started from with no conclusive answer.
 

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The 2009 headlamp diagrams are presented in a different format. Maybe you can deduce more info there?

Also, just to see if these diagrams show relays, I looked at System: Engine, Subsystem: Cooling...... to see that the radiator fans DO show relays. I "think" those are the ones I pictured earlier located under the front driver side headlight.

But, you are correct, still no conclusive answer.
 

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Hello,
I have a Jeep Patriot CRD 2008 model that has a VW diesel engine. The VIN number for my Jeep 1j8f728y18d532401. I bought my jeep second hand about 3 years ago and I have had this problem ever since I bought the car. It is a very intermittent problem.

When I run my Jeep to wherever I am going and the temperature of the engine is half way between Hot and Cold (running temperature). Then if I start the car between 45min to an 1 hour after the car had stopped (sometimes) the starter grinds the flywheel or the solenoid engages the starter to the flywheel, but cannot turn the engine. Now to get the engine to start I engage 3rd gear and push the car a few centimetres before starting the car again; the car starts with no problem.

This does not happen every time though, maybe once every 2 or 3 months. I have changed the starter motor and solenoid, starter relay and battery twice. I used to have the moo valve granting every time I stopped the engine but I don’t hear it any more. It must have fixed itself!
Otherwise the engine runs smoothly, but the engine is very loud compared to petrol engines. It blows black smoke when starting up slops, when the accelerator is about half way down or more. I feel the engine might be a little sluggish, but I am not sure as I did not have the car from new. I use about 9 to 10 litters for every 100Km driving around Brisbane city. Which is not too bad I think?

How do I fix this intermittent starting problem? Anyone have any ideas or had this similar problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well, called my 'local' dealer (6 miles away) -'sorry computers being updated today'. Great start to the New Year.

Called Bristol dealer (22 miles away), - 'sorry all our operators are busy, leave a message'. Having done so on another matter which never got a response, I didn't bother.

Called a dealer with a good name for years of Jeep service in Exeter (Vospers - 77 miles away), - one lady answers the phone, yes a real person, transfers me to parts department, told him the part I am looking for, ordered VOR for tomorrow, being couriered to me for extra charge. So, £102.70 for part and courier extra £15.

Cheapest way for me as at least I get the part before the weekend so won't affect my earning capacity.

Nothing is easy in this country. Local garages and even businesses in my town, well best not bother with them.
 

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Well, called my 'local' dealer (6 miles away) -'sorry computers being updated today'. Great start to the New Year.

Called Bristol dealer (22 miles away), - 'sorry all our operators are busy, leave a message'. Having done so on another matter which never got a response, I didn't bother.

Called a dealer with a good name for years of Jeep service in Exeter (Vospers - 77 miles away), - one lady answers the phone, yes a real person, transfers me to parts department, told him the part I am looking for, ordered VOR for tomorrow, being couriered to me for extra charge. So, £102.70 for part and courier extra £15.

Cheapest way for me as at least I get the part before the weekend so won't affect my earning capacity.

Nothing is easy in this country. Local garages and even businesses in my town, well best not bother with them.
Wow its just the opposite here in the States at least in my area.
Always get usually a perky young girl or woman answering the phone who enthusiastically transfers either to the sales, parts or service dept.
Once in a while the service or parts manager is temporarily unavailable but almost always return the call.
Each and every phone call is potential money in the pocket for the dealerships.

Anyway, hope the part you ordered fixes the problem.
Let us know one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
This is starting to turn into a very strange scenario. Had the battery off with the live and neg leads shorted for 2 days to clear TIPM. Left it that long as no point playing around until I have a new switch. Re-connected this morning and everything worked. Went to supermarket fine. Got in to come home, wouldn't work again. Went to local superstore to buy a set of decent screwdrivers to fit the switch when it arrives. Got back into the car, tried the 12 second reset, worked. Then as suddenly as it worked, it went to fault mode again. Nothing gets it out this time.

Looking at my steering column shrouds, I appear to have only 1 screw not 3 holding on the shrouds. Also noticed the rubber strip on the tilt mechanism is floating on the right-side not attached to anything. It has been like that then since the last repair when the ignition switch fell apart when the steering shaft was being seen to under warranty, like 2008! That garage went bust though in the recession here.

Still have to look at my 4wd light to see why that is permanently on. I get the 4 relay clicks on start with that one. Been like it for something like a year now. never bothered to fix it as I assume it is corroded wires in the front passenger foot-well, especially as this jeep has had an indoor swimming pool on a number of occasions due to a leaking sunroof. - Which is now sealed closed with bathroom sealer due to extortionate rate for a piece of rubber we have to pay here. Latest quote is near to £300, which is more than the sunroof cost when I bought the car!
 

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Try this trick below and see if it works and/or helps. Also, be careful about airbag deployment when you mess with the steering column.

Man, somehow I forgot the OP's vehicle is the diesel engine and the fuse/relay situation might be completely different.
 

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Hi, as you're in the UK, if all else fails, having searched for ages a while ago I now I take my car here Home Page

Although its a bit of a trek from the Midlands and even further for you, they have done a good job and much much much cheaper than the stealership prices.

I've had them replace my TIPM, fly wheel and a few other things and its saved me a fortune and worth the trip !
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ahh, done. Less than 15 minutes to fit but 45 minutes looking for that damned screw I dropped but still not found. The car has ate it! I know it hit the floor but god knows where it has gone. Can get away with a single screw in the front edge though for now.

2 front screws are 'phillips/pozidrives. The rear screw is a little devil Torx. All works though. Only thing I have noticed is that when indicating and still turning the wheel you don't get that faint 'click' I used to get. In-fact, it turns off so quietly I had to check it was doing so.

My steering wheel is on the correct side (RHD) so the dash gets a little in the way doing the job,:)

On a side note there were no fault codes showing by any method of checking, not with the blue tooth tool neither the 3 quick turns of the ignition switch.
 

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Thanks for the follow up! Seems that it was a "relatively" easy fix - i.e., no TIPM replacement. Adds to the knowledge base here.

Except, a missed screw is one of life's great disappointments.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
......and now? The alternator has gone!

I think this car is starting to eat itself!

Still £285 fitted by a small local garage. I could get the part somewhat cheaper than they are getting it, (£167 against £230) but then we have to look at the warranty. Better to pay that little more and let them handle it all. It's not really an easy fit when you don't have adequate access to tools and space to do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
it works again

...It's back, she lives :) :)

New alternator and had filter and oil changed whilst in there. Total of £365, also rechecked the tracking they set when they did my control arms and corrected the settings.

Car whizzes along nice and quiet again now. Seems very responsive to the throttle again now.

Steering lovely and light again.
 

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Ahh, think I may have found the answer in another old thread on this site. Appears it could be the multi function switches causing the problem. Have to have a good look at that but first try the old negative off the battery for a while etc, also try shorting both leads when taken off the battery to reset TIPM, so I am told.
Hi, I am in the UK also,with the exact same problem,did you resolve the problem,would appreciate some information, I have had the TIPM apart checked the relays and wiring. But can't find the problem,thanks Mal
 
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