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Sorry, been really busy these past few days...anyways I will attach pics of what I used to reference me. I highlighted the important parts and they are color coded, so basically just match the pins/wires with the correct colors. The second attached picture is the connector that will be found on the back of the HVAC controls. The first picture attached is the connector that is plugged in the back of the infrared sensor located in the map light on the headliner.



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thank you very much Mike.

Could you give me some other informations about how did you do that ?

Pratically you only have connected the missing pins of the HVAC connector to the connector of the infrared sensor and nothing else ?

i have found a sensor (without the lamp) to make some test. Do you think that it might work if i connect the two pins of the sensor to the right pins of the connector (HVAC 15/16) ?
 

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Yes, essentially all you are doing is splicing the three wires from the sensor into the HVAC control pigtail harness and it reads the info that way
 

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2014 Sport 4X4 FD2 Off-road, Falken Wildpeak A/T, All weather & convienance group, EVIC, ATC, Hitch
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Got mine working. I purchased a set of HVAC controls off of ebay a few months ago and thought that's all I needed. They never seemed to work right and I though that maybe they were faulty. Then I found this thread. Too bad I didn't see it sooner. Anyway, this week I purchased the done light w/ sensor, a connector, and some 3-conductor wire. Wired it all up as per the instructions in here and poof, works like a charm! Thanks for all the advice!
 

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Auto Climate Control Write-up (1/3)

After reading this thread and following the trial & error and success, I decided to document and share my experience with this mod.

If you have trouble viewing images or prefer a mobile format, check this link for the imgur album: https://imgur.com/a/bWuUW


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This is how to upgrade the standard HVAC controls in a 2017 Jeep Patriot Sport trim model to automatic climate control.

Auto climate control is only found on the higher-end trim on Patriots (I know of the Limited trim at least) and other Chrysler vehicles since they use similar stock parts. I would consider this upgrade a small convenience factor in terms of the difference it makes compared to the standard controls, but it's a rather nice perk to have.

The whole idea behind "automatic climate control" is to reduce the amount of knob-turning, or options, if you will, when it comes to your HVAC. At first this may not sound like it's worth the trouble since most people like full control of the air coming out of the vents in choosing where its blowing, how much its blowing, and if it should be hotter or colder based on your comfort level. Automatic climate control still has all of the basic functions of the standard HVAC when used normally and not engaged in "AUTO" mode. When using AUTO mode, you only have to choose what temperature you prefer the cabin interior to be and the new module will do all the other work in terms of fan speed and zone control.

There is an ambient temperature sensor in the dome light that measures the air temperature and will maintain that setting by adjusting fan speed and location automatically. It offers simplicity in a manner where you set it and forget it.

After much research and consistently checking Craigslist for patriot parts, I came across a 2011 Limited Patriot which has the auto controls and everything necessary to at least give it a try.



Technically, the parts required for this mod include:
1. HVAC Auto-Climate Controller (LOW speed CANbus only)
2. Wiring Module Harness for IR Temperaure Sensor w/ lead wire
3. Dome/Map Light Asembly with IR Sensor (Front)
4. ~10 ft. of 22-Gauge 3-Conductor Wire to make your own wire run 5. Butt connectors and quick splice connectors--or solder whatever you want to do & Heat shrink or electrical tape to protect connections


You can find most, if not all, of these parts for this mod in Ebay if you don't have any luck on your local Craigslist. I think I spent about $150-175 for parts, and it's not a hard mod, just time consuming considering you have to *cut the headliner*.

Seen above is the standard HVAC controls next to the auto-climate which displays a temperature degree in Fahrenheit (also available in Celsius) as opposed to a color gradient depicting temperature.



Here is the standard overhead dome/map light sitting next to the version that has the ambient temperature sensor built into the housing. Notice the size difference and why it requires cutting the headliner to make it fit and look factory.



This is the wiring module (black) that plugs into the temperature sensor in addition to the standard power plug (grey) for both lamps as seen above. This is a shot of the headliner pulled out and looking down.



Here is the back of the control unit to show where the wire harness plugs into. Kind of hard to see, but the smaller plug on the left does not have any pins to connect wires to. The Patriots do not seem to make use of this and is most likely a stock part used in various other Chrysler models where it might be used for something.

I honestly can't remember which control unit this is so that model # may not be the auto version.



Closer shot of the other control unit.



NO.



The control unit, which is held in by 4 phillips head screws, is accessible after removing the radio/air vent bezel on the dash, which is held in by those metal push pins. Use a plastic pry tool to safely remove this bezel.



This is the back of both the standard dome light and the auto version showing the separate plug locations of the wire harness's.



Close-up of plugs. You will still use the standard wire plug (grey) as well as adding the temp sensor plug (black) in order for the ambient temperature to be sensed and regulated properly.



When I found the parted out Patriot I didn't want to remove the full length of wire run for the temp sensor plug. Instead, I cut the plug with some wire lead and planned on buying some 22-gauge 3-conductor wire to make a new run to where it's needed behind the control unit. I found a 4-conductor wire for cheaper than 3 on Amazon. Either strip away the 4th wire, or leave it.
 

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Auto Climate Control Write-up (2/3)



This is a shot of the headliner that comes in Patriots that are factory equipped with auto climate controls with the map light with temp sensor built in. I cut the hole in my headliner differently, but this gives you an idea of what was intended from the designer/engineer.

Since you will need to cut the headliner to fit the new dome light, I recommend removing the headliner to give you you more room to work with to cut accurately and to route wires where needed without the "tuck-it & ****-it" method.

See this link for a How-To on removing the headliner - https://imgur.com/a/DfCPN



Once you have removed the headliner, or decide to leave it, the first step is removing the front dome/map light to start cutting the headliner.

This is the front seat map/dome lamp from above the headliner looking down for reference when trying to remove it. To remove: using a plastic panel tool, look up at the dome lamp along the inside edge where the lens meets the plastic housing and you will see a small indent, pry the lens away from the indent to allow the lens to 'pop' free and it will become loose.

You should now see that the housing is loose from the headliner and from here you can wiggle it out using the above picture for reference to clear the opening. Unplug harness from housing, but be careful as there isn't a whole lot of slack on these overhead lamp plugs.



Here is the opening in the headliner looking down.



Looking up with wire harnesses in place.



This is a reference shot of the larger dome lamp with temp sensor to show that it is indeed the same overall shape, just larger on 1 side.



Here is the same shot as above only showing the larger side inserted first to show how it will support itself at the headliner.

Here is where you want to grab a sharpie and start making some guide lines as to your cut extents. Grab a fresh and very sharp blade to make any cuts at the headliner. You must take caution when cutting and modifying your headliner as there is not much to fix it other than replacing it, and any mistake in cuts with be clearly visible.

Measure twice, cut once. Also, cut less than you need and then slowly trim to desired shape, because it's like a haircut - you can always cut more if it's too long, but once you cut too short...



When you cut from above, try to cut only thru the top few layers, including the rigid middle, but leave the bottom fabric layer in-tact as much as you can. You must cut the fabric at some point to allow the tension to release when trying to fit the new housing support as seen above, but try not to cut any visible fabric if you don't have to.

This is the cut I ended up with after test fitting, cutting, test fitting, trimming, test fitting, cutting. Take your time as your attention to detail and meticulous cutting will be visible as it's right up front and less forgiving than, let's say, the rear cargo lamp.



Here is what my cut shape looks like from below showing better view of the cut fabric.



Here it is secured to the headliner with plugs in place. This was a very tight fit and kind of difficult as there are plastic support 'fins' on an X and Y axis. I'm sure the factory cut opening as seen above is easier to get the housing in and out, but I really didn't want to cut that much of the headliner out.



Few steps ahead, but this is how the new housing fits with the cuts that i made. It doesn't sag or droop or have large gaps between the fabric and plastic housing.



Different angle showing a reflection on the temperature sensor.
 

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Auto Climate Control Write-up (3/3)



This is the factory wire harness that powers the grey plug for the dome/map light and how it's actually ran inside the foam on top of the headliner. Since you wouldn't rip into this foam, I suggest using some duct tape or cable ties to secure the new wire run from the temp sensor harness down the same path as the plug wires that are already there.

This run of 3-conductor wire can be terminated with quick disconnects at the location of the large grey plug that is located behind the driver side A-pillar when in place. Refer to the headliner removal album for clarity.



These wiring module diagrams can be seen in the previous posts in this thread.

These diagrams are essential when running new wire for the temp sensor if you cut the wires from a parted vehicle. Although small rez and kind of blurry, it's still readable to determine wire color and function.

The above diagram shows the plug module (black, not blue) located at the temperature sensor at the dome/map light. This plug only has 3 wires to it and so it should be easy to connect your new wires just write down and keep track of what your new wire colors are in relation to these factory wires.

YELLOW - 1 - PK/YL - FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT
GREEN - 3 - DB/LG - IR SENSOR SIGNAL
PINK - 4 - DB/YL - IR SENSOR RETURN



This diagram shows the module that plugs into your current climate control regardless of what type.

Apparently the 3 wires from the IR temp sensor tap into existing wires located at this plug module on any type of Patriot trim.

The understanding of how this works is that the 3 wires from the sensor are communicating to a temperature sensor already located within the vehicle. 1 sensor is located at the master air vent that determines circulating air temp (SENSOR SIGNAL), the 2nd sensor is the IR sensor (SENSOR RETURN) in the map light that senses current temperature, and the last wire is for power.

YELLOW - 3 - PK/RD - FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT
PINK - 15 - DB/YL - IR SENSOR RETURN
GREEN - 16 - DB/LG - IR SENSOR SIGNAL



Closeup of IR temp sensor wire colors. From top to bottom - PK/YL - DB/LG - DB/YL



Here is the wire plug module that gets plugged into the back of the climate controls and is accessible after removing the radio/dash bezel.

I used above-average quality T-taps for this application because I hate to cut factory wires. These make a solid connection as you can see the points of contact and if its clamped properly.

These are the 3 wires from the module diagram picture above that shows it tapping into wires 3 - 15 - 16. The only color wire that did not match was the PK/RD for the fused ignition (power) connection, but there was no other wire that matched the description based on the diagrams so I felt confident in tapping it.



From here you will want to grab more 3-conductor wire to finish the wire connection from the IR temp sensor to the climate controller. Tap, or splice into the wires above and then run the wire towards the driver side door making sure to secure the wire with zip ties or other means and once you have enough slack to reach the grey harness discussed earlier. This is why you want to use a wire connection to allow a quick-disconnect at a later time should you have to remove the headliner again.

I ran out of insulated connections before I could finish, but I swapped them out later.

------------------------------------------ Once you have it connected then you want to start putting everything back together to test basic functionality. It will take quite a bit of time of using the auto-climate controls to determine if it is indeed working as intended based on the automatic fluctuation of the ambient temperature inside the cabin in relation to the user setting. This will take awhile of actual driving use to find out, so test for power and if the fans react to your setting before fully buttoning up the headliner if dropped and other major components of this mod.

I am still testing this for myself as I just recently installed it, but so far I have experienced noticeable and comfortable changes in ambient temperature while using the 'AUTO' setting. As stated above, the big deal here is the simplicity it can offer on top of the standard functions that we all are used to, such as how much air, hotter or colder, and where exactly do you want it. This allows you to set your temp and let the controller take care of where and how much air you are getting to maintain your desired temp.

I have noticed 1 big thing that takes some getting used to - if you want the temp anywhere above the middle setting, or what I would assume to be "room temperature", then it will only blow thru the lower foot well vents or the defroster only. It will not blow hot air in your face thru the dash vents. It simply will not allow it. Now if you want any temperature at 72 or below then it will blast you will cold air thru the dash vents like you are used to. I don't mind this because hot air in my face dries my eyes out, but that's just me and you actually may not like that aspect of auto climate at all. Honestly, i'm not even sure if that's standard behavior or not. Either way, you can still set the fan speed, air temp, and air location at any time and to any setting you want - the auto climate feature just takes it a step up.

I hope this helps and enjoy your auto climate control!
 

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Thank you "Booly" for the wonderful walk through of the ATC installation.

I am in the process of performing the same procedure on my 2012 Jeep Patriot.

Parts are on their way.
There will be photos as well showcasing what will go on throughout the process.


:)
 

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2017 Jeep Patriot High Altitude
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Was it pretty much plug and play?
I’m so sorry, I thought that I had replied. Yes, I unplugged the old trim with the controls and then plugged the new one in and snapped it all together. I do think I want to add the sensor my modification because even though it seems to work fine, but I’m sure it could be better.
 

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2017 Jeep Patriot 4x4
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Auto Climate Control Write-up (3/3)



This is the factory wire harness that powers the grey plug for the dome/map light and how it's actually ran inside the foam on top of the headliner. Since you wouldn't rip into this foam, I suggest using some duct tape or cable ties to secure the new wire run from the temp sensor harness down the same path as the plug wires that are already there.

This run of 3-conductor wire can be terminated with quick disconnects at the location of the large grey plug that is located behind the driver side A-pillar when in place. Refer to the headliner removal album for clarity.



These wiring module diagrams can be seen in the previous posts in this thread.

These diagrams are essential when running new wire for the temp sensor if you cut the wires from a parted vehicle. Although small rez and kind of blurry, it's still readable to determine wire color and function.

The above diagram shows the plug module (black, not blue) located at the temperature sensor at the dome/map light. This plug only has 3 wires to it and so it should be easy to connect your new wires just write down and keep track of what your new wire colors are in relation to these factory wires.

YELLOW - 1 - PK/YL - FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT
GREEN - 3 - DB/LG - IR SENSOR SIGNAL
PINK - 4 - DB/YL - IR SENSOR RETURN



This diagram shows the module that plugs into your current climate control regardless of what type.

Apparently the 3 wires from the IR temp sensor tap into existing wires located at this plug module on any type of Patriot trim.

The understanding of how this works is that the 3 wires from the sensor are communicating to a temperature sensor already located within the vehicle. 1 sensor is located at the master air vent that determines circulating air temp (SENSOR SIGNAL), the 2nd sensor is the IR sensor (SENSOR RETURN) in the map light that senses current temperature, and the last wire is for power.

YELLOW - 3 - PK/RD - FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT
PINK - 15 - DB/YL - IR SENSOR RETURN
GREEN - 16 - DB/LG - IR SENSOR SIGNAL



Closeup of IR temp sensor wire colors. From top to bottom - PK/YL - DB/LG - DB/YL



Here is the wire plug module that gets plugged into the back of the climate controls and is accessible after removing the radio/dash bezel.

I used above-average quality T-taps for this application because I hate to cut factory wires. These make a solid connection as you can see the points of contact and if its clamped properly.

These are the 3 wires from the module diagram picture above that shows it tapping into wires 3 - 15 - 16. The only color wire that did not match was the PK/RD for the fused ignition (power) connection, but there was no other wire that matched the description based on the diagrams so I felt confident in tapping it.



From here you will want to grab more 3-conductor wire to finish the wire connection from the IR temp sensor to the climate controller. Tap, or splice into the wires above and then run the wire towards the driver side door making sure to secure the wire with zip ties or other means and once you have enough slack to reach the grey harness discussed earlier. This is why you want to use a wire connection to allow a quick-disconnect at a later time should you have to remove the headliner again.

I ran out of insulated connections before I could finish, but I swapped them out later.

------------------------------------------ Once you have it connected then you want to start putting everything back together to test basic functionality. It will take quite a bit of time of using the auto-climate controls to determine if it is indeed working as intended based on the automatic fluctuation of the ambient temperature inside the cabin in relation to the user setting. This will take awhile of actual driving use to find out, so test for power and if the fans react to your setting before fully buttoning up the headliner if dropped and other major components of this mod.

I am still testing this for myself as I just recently installed it, but so far I have experienced noticeable and comfortable changes in ambient temperature while using the 'AUTO' setting. As stated above, the big deal here is the simplicity it can offer on top of the standard functions that we all are used to, such as how much air, hotter or colder, and where exactly do you want it. This allows you to set your temp and let the controller take care of where and how much air you are getting to maintain your desired temp.

I have noticed 1 big thing that takes some getting used to - if you want the temp anywhere above the middle setting, or what I would assume to be "room temperature", then it will only blow thru the lower foot well vents or the defroster only. It will not blow hot air in your face thru the dash vents. It simply will not allow it. Now if you want any temperature at 72 or below then it will blast you will cold air thru the dash vents like you are used to. I don't mind this because hot air in my face dries my eyes out, but that's just me and you actually may not like that aspect of auto climate at all. Honestly, i'm not even sure if that's standard behavior or not. Either way, you can still set the fan speed, air temp, and air location at any time and to any setting you want - the auto climate feature just takes it a step up.

I hope this helps and enjoy your auto climate control!
This was a great read and how to. I just need to get the dome light and harness. Thanks again.
Joseph Jr
 
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