[AzJeepGuy]

As tax return season is approaching I put the Patriot up for sale and stated all the issues I was having with it since it had a all new interior and rear wiring put in. I am not going to making much out of this, but I am getting lowballed and I am sick of it. I feel it is a simple fix but I havent dig deeper into. Now that my 2nd rebuilt ac compressor has gone out, I know I have to sell.

This is what currently happening:

I have the passenger headlight lit only, the driver’s side does not work. High beam works in drivers’ side, while passengers side is not lit.
It seems the front wiring is being affected; the following are no longer working:
Auto start
Turn singles
Heated seats
Outside temperature sensor

Rear wiring is working as rear turn singles work, but when I do use them they blink fast as if there is ground issue?

I feel the following could be causing my issues:

Black relays under driver side compartment that are notorious to breaking due to not being weather protected, this is what caused my no start issue that took almost a month to figure. I didnt replace them as I grabbed the old relays from the board and the car started up

A ground is not connected correctly?

I could use some help here as I would like to sell ASAP

 

[RossoRacer]

A turn signal(you're spelling it "single" for some reason?) will blink fast if the bulb at either end isn't working, whether it be a blown bulb, blown fuse, loose wire, whatever. Outside temp sensor is strapped to the bottom of the steel bumper inside the plastic bumper cover. You should be able to see it through the slats on the nose if it's still there, in which case the problem would be somewhere further back. As for the other two issues, I personally don't see how heated seats add value to a Jeep, as they're supposed to be simple and rugged, and tip start to be nice but keeping the key turned has never hurt me. But of course many people nitpick over even minor things being wrong with a vehicle, and Patriots aren't considered very valuable these days by most folks anyway.

 

[Sandstone]

Engine bay grounds info is here:

G110, G111, and G112 ground location and wiring diagrams

G110 G111 & G112 G111 G112

www.jeeppatriot.com

 

[mr_et2]

I'd say the first thing you need to do is replace the ring terminals on the engine bay grounds. Even if they look good, the wires tend to corrode and break inside, where you cannot see.

 

[AzJeepGuy]

Thanks I will have to check this weekend and try to go through the connectors and see if I can fix this

 

[AzJeepGuy]

A turn signal(you're spelling it "single" for some reason?) will blink fast if the bulb at either end isn't working, whether it be a blown bulb, blown fuse, loose wire, whatever. Outside temp sensor is strapped to the bottom of the steel bumper inside the plastic bumper cover. You should be able to see it through the slats on the nose if it's still there, in which case the problem would be somewhere further back. As for the other two issues, I personally don't see how heated seats add value to a Jeep, as they're supposed to be simple and rugged, and tip start to be nice but keeping the key turned has never hurt me. But of course many people nitpick over even minor things being wrong with a vehicle, and Patriots aren't considered very valuable these days by most folks anyway.

I used and enjoyed the heated seats on cold days and auto start is amazing once you have it. These are extra features that came with the Patriot and it was one of the fully loaded optioned one that my sister got. So I am trying to get as much as I can for it, to put down on another vehicle.

 

[AzJeepGuy]

Ok so today I was able to check 3 of the grounds that maybe cauing the issue, 1st location is the passnger under the ant-coolant tank by the pulleys that is the #1 cause of the headlight issues, I checked the connections and they seem fine, even sanded down the connections to see if that would help out, no dice. The funny thing is I removed this gound and turned on the headlights and the passenger headlight was still working and the drivers, nope.

Next I removed the battery/fuse black ground and sanded that down and even removed and turned on the headlights, same thing as above. Passenger light works and drivers doenest

Next ground location that is part of the front wiring hareness is 2 ground connections in front of the airbox, they were green and crappy looking and sanded them down to get more of the copper metal on the connectors and again, passenger headlight works and drivers doesnt

I am stumped at what is going on with this issue....

So I was able to remove the temp sensor on the front and to see if removing it and re-interesting would fix the issue of the temp sensor not working, of course not. What is weird the connector is a 3 pong and the sensor itself is a 2 pong? I even tried to connect my torque app to remove the air temp sensor code and it refuses to remove the code, which leave the engine light on

The last thing I did was remove the black relays and sanded down some the minor green gunk on them and put them all 4 of them back in and still the same headlight issues

 

[Gonzo Norway]

Problems are where the cables are clambed into the eye. You need to put new eyes on the cables. The copper of the cables makes bad connection to the eye because of copperoxidation. Cleaning the eyes itself does not fix the problem.

 

[Carbuff]

Yeah, the eye can look all clean but the problem is inside the crimp usually. Cutting off the eyes and replacing them with new ones seems to be what works for most. These grounds are usually the culprit when there are a bunch of seemingly unrelated electrical gremlins going on. Did you try running a temporary ground wire to the headlight socket to see if that fixes the issue? If so then you would know that you had a bad ground issue most likely causing your other issues too.

 

[mr_et2]

As Gonzo Norway and Carbuff said, it's the wires, not the terminal. The only way to fix the corroded wires is to cut off the terminal, then strip the wires back and check for corrosion. If you see it, cut the wires back further and check again. Keep doing that until you see shiny copper wire. I had to cut some of mine back almost 6 inches, then splice on new lengths of wire before attaching a new terminal. These pics aren't from my Jeep, but just to show how wires corrode under the insulation.

 

[AzJeepGuy]

Yeah, the eye can look all clean but the problem is inside the crimp usually. Cutting off the eyes and replacing them with new ones seems to be what works for most. These grounds are usually the culprit when there are a bunch of seemingly unrelated electrical gremlins going on. Did you try running a temporary ground wire to the headlight socket to see if that fixes the issue? If so then you would know that you had a bad ground issue most likely causing your other issues too.

No I didnt as I am in a complex that doesnt really allow you to work on vehicles, per the HOA. But how would you do this?

I am trying to avoid this, good video of this dumb issue with these Patriots

 

[mr_et2]

Unfortunately, that's what is required. And yes, it sucks. Not much room to work down there.

 

[Sandstone]

But how would you do this?

If you have a test light you can try going from the ground pin on the socket with one lead and the positive side of the battery with the other and see if it's bright.

If you don't have a test light you could try using a meter, one lead to the ground pin and the other to the chassis; it shouldn't be more than a few ohms.

 

[AzJeepGuy]

Unfortunately, that's what is required. And yes, it sucks. Not much room to work down there.

So I just did this and I cant even tell you the stupidity of Jeep doing this and leaving a small strand of wiring to use when you cut off the connector...I was able to use 2 new 8 guage connetcors ( I am thiking I need 12g?) but I am sure 1 or 2 connectors are not right, still the same issue. So I was able to do autostart and than it shut off? I am done for today...I just need to be away from that Patriot at the moment

 

[AzJeepGuy]

If you have a test light you can try going from the ground pin on the socket with one lead and the positive side of the battery with the other and see if it's bright.

If you don't have a test light you could try using a meter, one lead to the ground pin and the other to the chassis; it shouldn't be more than a few ohms.

Dont have neither....Thanks ...taking a break for another day

 

[PeterP]

If you have a CEL on the auto star will start then shut off, it does the same if the tank is on empty

 

[AzJeepGuy]

If you have a CEL on the auto star will start then shut off, it does the same if the tank is on empty

CEL is due to temp sensor gone bad? I dont believe it because before the wiring was changed, it was fine. And yes aware auto start will shut off when near 1/4 of a tank, but I have a half tank of gas. I honestly was just happy for it to autop start lol

 

[bcse815]

Check Engine Light will prevent auto start to stay started too is what I meant

 

[AzJeepGuy]

Check Engine Light will prevent auto start to stay started too is what I meant

Really? I didnt know and yup I did auto start and it shut off again, I just ordered the temp sensor from eBAY....

So I have been able to use Auto Start before it turns off, I just insert the key within a minute and it stays on, while not how it should be, its nice to have the feature back on

 

[AzJeepGuy]

Well the new temp sensor came in today and in my gut I knew it wouldnt fix the issue and it didnt. Its the same feeling I had with the ground that seems to cause the mosts issues with the headlights, took it down to bare wiring and it didnt fix the issue. And now I dont want to cut into anymore wires and it wont fix whats going

There has be something that causing these 5 functions to not work

1. Front turns single left or right
2. Traction control light comes on (I can turn traction control off but the light sstill comes on)
3. Temp sensor
4. Engine light due to temp sensor and now I know why I cant clear the code because its not reading anything
5. Drivers headlight doesnt work but high beam does