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As easy and inexpensive as it is to change the plugs--about $10 at autozone for the factory prescribed ones, and if you have all the tools figured out and layed out--the time is about 10--15 minutes. It's so easy, why wait until an issue crops up, pretend it's just like another oil change--do it for preventative maintenance rather than repair-type maintenance. I have a spare set of plugs, gapped and in my shop drawer, so when I get/feel the urge, it's there, and I don't have to trundle down to the autoparts store...good luck!
^^ this ^^​
 

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Before you go thru buying replacement parts or taking your Patriot (or Caliber) into a mechanic, try resetting the ECU!

Yesterday, my 2007 Patriot (112,500 miles) started jerking during accelerations. I put on 400 miles yesterday, highway and city driving. I noticed, either with or without cruise control functioning, on a flat road or downhill, the jerking was very minimal, however, whenever I went up a hill, the shuttering increased dramatically.

First I thought, "is engine misfiring?", but no error codes were showing on my OBD2 bluetooth reader, so this was not the cause.

Then I thought, "low CVT transmission fluid?". I checked that too with "cheat" marks I had previously made on the back side of my oil dipstick when the engine was cold and when it was hot. No issue there either.

I thought, OMG!, my CVT is going out! Then I remembered that the ECU flash memory might have become corrupted, so I tried the ECU Soft Reset Method (see below). That solved the problem, and had the added benefit of increasing my gas mileage 4 miles per gallon! Sweet!

Good troubleshooting starts with logical symptom analysis and trying the least expensive solutions first based on those symptoms. This is absolutely free, will not damage anything (as long as you follow the instructions), and may save you lots of time and money swapping out unnecessary parts or being charged a mechanic's fee (this is one of the first things a mechanic will do to resolve the problem when you take it in, and he will charge you for doing it if it solves the problem, so beat him to the punch!).

I really hate it when people post "links" (that usually become useless within months) to forums when the information can be simply printed here for the lifetime of the forum. Hint, hint to all you future posters.....

Please forgive the extremely simple sounding instructions, just trying to make it as fool-proof as possible, even for anyone who has never had any automotive repair or "under the hood" experience.

-----

Jeep Electronic Control Unit Reset


The Electronic Control Module, or ECU as its commonly called, stores the information for your vehicle and your driving habits in its internal flash memory.

The memory is maintained by a series of capacitors that hold a charge and maintain power for the ECU when the vehicle is turned off.

The following procedures will allow you to reset the memory and allow the computer to 're-learn' how to drive by adjusting to the drivers habits and any vehicle hardware (parts) or electronic (vehicle performance tuner) modifications you have installed.

There are two different procedures available to reset the ECU's flash memory:

-----


>>> The "Soft" Reset Method <<<


(This method does not erase radio stations or other vehicle settings, because you are not removing the vehicle's battery power)

While sitting in the driver's seat, with the seat belt buckled (driver door can remain open or closed):

1). Insert and turn the ignition key in the ignition, past the "Accessory" setting to the "Run" setting (all the red system warning lights will light up around the speedometer), but DO NOT turn the key far enough to start the engine.

2). Wait for all the red system warning lights to turn off (last one will be the the throttle indicator - the two half-moons with a lightning bolt between them, and it usually turns off about 15 seconds after turning the key to the "Run" position).

3). Over the next 15 seconds (immediately after the throttle indicator red warning light has turned off), slowly and smoothly depress the throttle pedal all the way to the floor. Try not to waver or be too jerky, just a nice slow, smooth push.

4). Over the next 15 seconds, slowly let the throttle out in the same manner.

5). Turn the key in the ignition back to the "off" position and remove the key.

6). Allow car to sit for about an hour. (an hours time limit is quoted in the original ECU soft reset procedure list, but it usually only needs a couple minutes to reboot the ECU firmware and flash memory and you can proceed to Step 7.)

7.) Start car and drive as you normally would.

Your car should respond differently, almost instantly. The ECU fuel maps are reset to factory original specs, and the computer "forgets" all the previous info it has learned about your driving style.

----------------------------------------------------


>>> "Hard" Reset Method <<<


(This will erase all your radio stations and any user presets, so write down radio stations settings and any other personal vehicle presets before disconnecting battery! You will have to re-enter them after this method is completed!)

1). Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery connector from the battery (requires a 10mm wrench or socket to loosen this connector). Remember, you must disconnect the positive (Red, "+") battery cable.

2). Hold this red positive cable connector to the negative battery connector attached to the battery for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the ECU capacitors. Do not worry, you will not see any sparks or receive any shock.

3). Reconnect and tighten the positive cable connector to the battery.

4). Insert and turn the ignition key in the ignition, past the "Accessory" setting to the "Run" setting (all the red system warning lights will light up around the speedometer), but do not turn the key far enough to start the engine.

5). Wait for all the red system warning lights to turn off (last one will be the the throttle indicator - the two half-moons with a lightning bolt between them, and it usually turns off about 15 seconds after turning the key to the "Run" position).

6). Turn the headlights on for 1 - 3 seconds (it does not matter whether the headlights are set to high-beam or low-beam mode).

7). Turn the headlights off.

8). Turn the key off.

The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 start-up cycles the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and any user installed accessories.

----------------

If you make a mistake while following these instructions, simply start from the beginning. If either of these methods does not solve the problem, re-read these instructions and try again......you may have skipped a step or performed a step too fast or not smooth enough ("Soft" reset). If, after a second attempt the problem still exists, you can be confident that the problem is not a corrupt ECU flash memory and proceed with more advanced troubleshooting methods.

Good Luck!
 

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Before you go thru buying replacement parts or taking your Patriot (or Caliber) into a mechanic, try resetting the ECU!

Yesterday, my 2007 Patriot (112,500 miles) started jerking during accelerations. I put on 400 miles yesterday, highway and city driving. I noticed, either with or without cruise control functioning, on a flat road or downhill, the jerking was very minimal, however, whenever I went up a hill, the shuttering increased dramatically.

First I thought, "is engine misfiring?", but no error codes were showing on my OBD2 bluetooth reader, so this was not the cause.

Then I thought, "low CVT transmission fluid?". I checked that too with "cheat" marks I had previously made on the back side of my oil dipstick when the engine was cold and when it was hot. No issue there either.

I thought, OMG!, my CVT is going out! Then I remembered that the ECU flash memory might have become corrupted, so I tried the ECU Soft Reset Method (see below). That solved the problem, and had the added benefit of increasing my gas mileage 4 miles per gallon! Sweet!

Good troubleshooting starts with logical symptom analysis and trying the least expensive solutions first based on those symptoms. This is absolutely free, will not damage anything (as long as you follow the instructions), and may save you lots of time and money swapping out unnecessary parts or being charged a mechanic's fee (this is one of the first things a mechanic will do to resolve the problem when you take it in, and he will charge you for doing it if it solves the problem, so beat him to the punch!).

I really hate it when people post "links" (that usually become useless within months) to forums when the information can be simply printed here for the lifetime of the forum. Hint, hint to all you future posters.....

Please forgive the extremely simple sounding instructions, just trying to make it as fool-proof as possible, even for anyone who has never had any automotive repair or "under the hood" experience.

-----

Jeep Electronic Control Unit Reset


The Electronic Control Module, or ECU as its commonly called, stores the information for your vehicle and your driving habits in its internal flash memory.

The memory is maintained by a series of capacitors that hold a charge and maintain power for the ECU when the vehicle is turned off.

The following procedures will allow you to reset the memory and allow the computer to 're-learn' how to drive by adjusting to the drivers habits and any vehicle hardware (parts) or electronic (vehicle performance tuner) modifications you have installed.

There are two different procedures available to reset the ECU's flash memory:

-----


>>> The "Soft" Reset Method <<<


(This method does not erase radio stations or other vehicle settings, because you are not removing the vehicle's battery power)

While sitting in the driver's seat, with the seat belt buckled (driver door can remain open or closed):

1). Insert and turn the ignition key in the ignition, past the "Accessory" setting to the "Run" setting (all the red system warning lights will light up around the speedometer), but DO NOT turn the key far enough to start the engine.

2). Wait for all the red system warning lights to turn off (last one will be the the throttle indicator - the two half-moons with a lightning bolt between them, and it usually turns off about 15 seconds after turning the key to the "Run" position).

3). Over the next 15 seconds (immediately after the throttle indicator red warning light has turned off), slowly and smoothly depress the throttle pedal all the way to the floor. Try not to waver or be too jerky, just a nice slow, smooth push.

4). Over the next 15 seconds, slowly let the throttle out in the same manner.

5). Turn the key in the ignition back to the "off" position and remove the key.

6). Allow car to sit for about an hour. (an hours time limit is quoted in the original ECU soft reset procedure list, but it usually only needs a couple minutes to reboot the ECU firmware and flash memory and you can proceed to Step 7.)

7.) Start car and drive as you normally would.

Your car should respond differently, almost instantly. The ECU fuel maps are reset to factory original specs, and the computer "forgets" all the previous info it has learned about your driving style.

----------------------------------------------------


>>> "Hard" Reset Method <<<


(This will erase all your radio stations and any user presets, so write down radio stations settings and any other personal vehicle presets before disconnecting battery! You will have to re-enter them after this method is completed!)

1). Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery connector from the battery (requires a 10mm wrench or socket to loosen this connector). Remember, you must disconnect the positive (Red, "+") battery cable.

2). Hold this red positive cable connector to the negative battery connector attached to the battery for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the ECU capacitors. Do not worry, you will not see any sparks or receive any shock.

3). Reconnect and tighten the positive cable connector to the battery.

4). Insert and turn the ignition key in the ignition, past the "Accessory" setting to the "Run" setting (all the red system warning lights will light up around the speedometer), but do not turn the key far enough to start the engine.

5). Wait for all the red system warning lights to turn off (last one will be the the throttle indicator - the two half-moons with a lightning bolt between them, and it usually turns off about 15 seconds after turning the key to the "Run" position).

6). Turn the headlights on for 1 - 3 seconds (it does not matter whether the headlights are set to high-beam or low-beam mode).

7). Turn the headlights off.

8). Turn the key off.

The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 start-up cycles the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and any user installed accessories.

----------------

If you make a mistake while following these instructions, simply start from the beginning. If either of these methods does not solve the problem, re-read these instructions and try again......you may have skipped a step or performed a step too fast or not smooth enough ("Soft" reset). If, after a second attempt the problem still exists, you can be confident that the problem is not a corrupt ECU flash memory and proceed with more advanced troubleshooting methods.

Good Luck!
Neither method worked in my case. If you haven't changed your spark plugs in over 30k miles, then I'd just change them. That's most likely the problem. The Issue came right back after about 10 miles when I tried both methods. The spark plugs Deep Missing won't throw a code and feels like a complete loss of power or bucking/hesitation when the CVT wants to reduce rpms. Changing the spark plugs fixed it for me. Only cost $20-30 to replace, if you do them yourself (suuuuper easy). Worse case scenario, you have brand new spark plugs lol.
 

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Still having issues

Hello,

I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot with 110k miles on it with same issues of it kicking back when I accelerate.

I just replaced the spark plugs on mine and it still doing it. I just reset the computer as well and still same issue. But like most people say on here, its a on and off thing. I could go 2 days without any issues then its back.

What I have done so far:

New Plugs,
New Air Filters
Checked Transmission fluid
Reset computer

Still having issues after doing all of this.
 

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Hello,

I just replaced the spark plugs on mine and it still doing it. I just reset the computer and let you know how that works. But like most people say on here, its a on and off thing. I could go 2 days without any issues then its back.

What I have done so far:

New Plugs,
New Air Filters
Checked Transmission fluid
Reset computer ( Waiting to drive it tonight )

I'll let you know if the computer reset helped at all.
As I said above, it could be tires. If your tires are inconsistent axle to axle, it can confuse the ECM resulting in stuttering when accelerating.
 

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I got new tires about 1 yr ago. I went a size larger b/c the ones that came with it look like Micky mouse tires. No issues for 1 yr time...maybe I can route the tires and see if it does anything.
 

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Hello,

I am having the same issues on my jeep compass 2010 CVT Transmission, automatic. Just crossed the 105K mileage had the vehicle 5 years and this has just started up in the past year. Will be replacing the spark plugs this weekend to see if that will help with anything and they probably should anyways. When i accelerate usually trying to pick speed up upon entry onto highways or just getting up to allowable speed, i have a jerking and/or slipping on the gears. It like during acceleration it just stops hard for a second and my body is moving forward still (im not technically sure how to describe this). my RPMs go to just about 2.5 - 3 and then this shuddering / jerking starts and happens each time i accelerate. its a scary feeling to feel a pause on your vehicle and your body keeps going forward.

I requested an auto place do a transmission fluid flush, said they wont touch because its CVT and no dipstick to even check, i have run into the temperature transmission light coming too (many times) when i am trying high speeds for extended period of time 1hr+, loss of power etc. Between these 2 issues i've been afraid of a bad transmission as well. Hoping someone can shed some light on this old post and if any updated news on the jerking when accelerating has been discovered. There are so many compasses roaming around and yet the dealer seems to be dumbfounded with the issues posted on these forums, saying nothing is wrong. I guess i will breakdown and take it to the dealership for a look. If its an extreme fix such as bad tranny then we will have to see about keeping the darn vehicle or not.

if anyone has any updates or experiences the same issues with resolution let me know please!!!

Im just a girl with no clue about auto mechanics!
 

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At 105K miles, if the fluid and both filters haven't been serviced they are way past due, especially if you've had transmission overheating issues.

Jeep dealers should be able to do the service for around $350-iish. They should also be able check the fluid level and condition (to some extent) prior to draining and filling it.

I'd recommend getting it in ASAP and drive it as little as possible in the mean time.
 

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My 07 Patriot is doing the same thing. A few months back I was driving on the tollroad and the ECM light flashed on. It wasn’t staying on, but would flash randomly. I then noticed if I got up to 40mph and completely let go of the gas, the light would come on. Of course when I went to go take it in, it quit doing it, and nothing could be done.

Fast forward to now, and the Jeep is shuddering between 25-40mph. It doesn’t do it all the time, but it appears it does it more often when it’s hot out, or when the engine is warmed up.

I’ve taken it two different places since then to be looked at, and one told me the transmission seems fine, but could be an engine performance issue. The second place said it’s too soon to rule out the transmission. I’ve done the small things with new spark plugs, and fuel injector in the gas tank. I plan on taking it to a dealer next. Reason I mentioned the ECM light earlier in this post is I’m wondering if it’s the throttle control going bad.

If this is the trans, this is the 2nd one that has gone out on me in this car. The first one went out 5 years and 73k miles in. The dealer recommended throttle control back then and we changed that, but it still ended up being the trans. This one is 5 years later and another 70k (142k total) miles in. I will not be happy with Chrysler and Jeep if they tell me I need a new transmission.

Any other ideas I can look at before I take it to dealer?
 

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... This one is 5 years later and another 70k (142k total) miles in....

Any other ideas I can look at before I take it to dealer?
Have the fluid and filters been changed since it was installed? What about the fluid level, has it ever been checked?
 

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I see a few new contributors to this thread. I don't know if you read all the umpteen posts leading up to this, but there are a couple worthwhile suggestions back there: 1) Spark Plugs, 2) Mismatched tires, 3) Resetting the ECM. Do the cheap and easy stuff first before rushing off to replace the transmission.

If it is the transmission you will probably be hearing noises or seeing the tachometer jump up with no resultant response in vehicle speed (sure symptom of slipping). If it feels like you've got dead spots in your acceleration I'm guessing its probably not the transmission. When I had those dead spots -- felt like the engine quit for a couple RPMs -- it was my odd-sized tires.

And yes, CVT fluid should be changed long before the recommended interval. However, damage from failed lubricants does not heal. :(
 

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Have the fluid and filters been changed since it was installed? What about the fluid level, has it ever been checked?
I took it to the dealer and they did a diagnostics on it, and they don't believe it's the transmission. I changed spark plugs prior to the visit, and they said they're the wrong ones (not factory). Every website and everything I've read says these spark plugs fit and are an exact match. Not to mention, I was already having the issue prior to the spark plug change.

They then said I should get the injectors cleaned, and start there. This past weekend I ran sea foam through it, but I'm still experiencing the issue. I just got back from a Firestone and they did their fuel system cleaning, and issue is still there.

I'm starting to think more and more that it is the transmission.
 

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Not my thread but what kind of damage can it cause?
No problem. Threads are open to all.

Just like an engine or a bearing. Old or insufficient lubrication makes for premature wear. While all parts will wear out sooner or later, with inadequate lubrication, they will wear out sooner than they might have have. In the CVT, it probably means the belt.
 

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No problem. Threads are open to all.

Just like an engine or a bearing. Old or insufficient lubrication makes for premature wear. While all parts will wear out sooner or later, with inadequate lubrication, they will wear out sooner than they might have have. In the CVT, it probably means the belt.
Thank you for the explanation. It makes perfect sense. :)
 

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Hey guys, I have learned a lot from you, especially your remedial strategies. I think that application will certainly fix similar problems I am going through of late. Great learning cycle.
 

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Hey guys, I have learned a lot from you, especially your remedial strategies. I think that application will certainly fix similar problems I am going through of late. Great learning cycle.
Hey guys, I have learned a lot from you, especially your remedial strategies. I think that application will certainly fix similar problems I am going through of late. Great learning cycle.
I got my plugs changed recently in a bid to remedy the issues mentioned above. Interestingly, for the following thirty minutes the issue was so pronounced that the reverse and the drive was not engaging normally, that is very erratically. Later, I observed a gradual normalisation, which I hope will ensure a smooth drive and reversing. If there is any other hidden problem, I am sure to identify such later. Overall, my question is COULD ANY ONE GIVE ME THE INTERPRETATION OF THE INITIAL AGGRAVATED SITUATION WHEN I CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS.
 

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I recently replaced my spark plugs and this has helped decrease the jerkiness to where I don’t even think it’s doing it now?
 

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I got my plugs changed recently in a bid to remedy the issues mentioned above. Interestingly, for the following thirty minutes the issue was so pronounced that the reverse and the drive was not engaging normally, that is very erratically. Later, I observed a gradual normalisation, which I hope will ensure a smooth drive and reversing. If there is any other hidden problem, I am sure to identify such later. Overall, my question is COULD ANY ONE GIVE ME THE INTERPRETATION OF THE INITIAL AGGRAVATED SITUATION WHEN I CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS.
Felix, I see you are new. Welcome! Please post an introduction in the newbie threads and introduce yourself to the others. Great group we've got here.

I've changed plugs in both my Patriot and my Wife's Patriot several times and never experienced your problem. My first thought is that maybe you got some anti-seize on the new plugs that caused them to misfire, but it has gradually burned off so they are sparking more normally after running for awhile. That's the only thing I can think of. Maybe someone on this site more knowledgeable than I can offer a better suggestion.
 

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Please, Ignatz, I am surely new. I got my Pat, 2008 model in 2013, fairly used but less than 20k miles. Non-the-less , could you brief on how to reach the newbie threads to ensure my introduction and introduce my self to others. I actually registered on this website, in my inquisition to find the solution to my PAT'S tranny problems.
However, I am pleased to receive some explanation to my transmission hick-ups when I changed my spark plugs. It is great to be part of this forum. Thanks a lot.
 
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