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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I open any of the doors a loud clicking sound around the stick area occurs for about 5 seconds and then stops.
Anyone care to take a shot at what it might be. There's no error lights on the dash.
Thanks.
 

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2014 Sport 4X4 FD2 Off-road, Falken Wildpeak A/T, All weather & convienance group, EVIC, ATC, Hitch
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When you shut the vehicle off and open a door, the computer tells the HVAC system to return the 3 actuators to their "home" position, closing all of the doors in the system. Mainly so that the system knows where the actuators are when you turn the vehicle back on, and also to calibrate them. There's one (the blend door actuator) behind the HVAC controls/below the radio, and the other 2 (mode door and recirculation door actuators) behind the glove box. Normally they make a humming & faint clicking sound. A loud clicking can indicate that something is binding or a failing actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When you shut the vehicle off and open a door, the computer tells the HVAC system to return the 3 actuators to their "home" position, closing all of the doors in the system. Mainly so that the system knows where the actuators are when you turn the vehicle back on, and also to calibrate them. There's one (the blend door actuator) behind the HVAC controls/below the radio, and the other 2 (mode door and recirculation door actuators) behind the glove box. Normally they make a humming & faint clicking sound. A loud clicking can indicate that something is binding or a failing actuator.
Thanks for the reply. If I left the situation as is, not having it fixed, would that create a serious problem? and would it be expensive to get fixed? I'm retired with not a lot of income so money is an issue.
 

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Thanks for the reply. If I left the situation as is, not having it fixed, would that create a serious problem? and would it be expensive to get fixed? I'm retired with not a lot of income so money is an issue.
If it's the actuator, eventually it may stop working which would affect the HVAC's ability to switch from hot to cool air.

The replacement part is $25-$50+ depending on where you buy it.
 

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If you replace it yourself, it's cheap and pretty easy. I paid $12 on Amazon for my blend door actuator and it took me less than an hour, start to finish. Took me about 5 minutes to replace the part, but about 50 minutes getting myself into and out of position to get it done. I had to lay upside-down on the seat, with my head on the floor... that was the only way my busted up back would let me access it.
 

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Try adjusting the HVAC controls, hot to cold and defrost/heat/ac, a few times... just crank the knobs back and forth, pausing for about 5-10 seconds before reversing. See if it makes that clicking noise when you do. Also, press the recirc button a few times, again with a pause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Try adjusting the HVAC controls, hot to cold and defrost/heat/ac, a few times... just crank the knobs back and forth, pausing for about 5-10 seconds before reversing. See if it makes that clicking noise when you do. Also, press the recirc button a few times, again with a pause.
There's no way I can do it myself...really bad back.
I'll try what you suggested and post in about 20 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There's no way I can do it myself...really bad back.
I'll try what you suggested and post in about 20 minutes.
I cranked the knobs back and forth with the pause as you suggested. The clicking occurs after the pause and when I'm in the heat position there is heat and when I'm in the cool position the ac is cool.
 

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One word of caution - I haven't had any experience with using an aftermarket blend door actuator motor on the Patriot, but my '06 Daytona with Auto Temp Dual Zone climate control uses 4 motors total. I've had to replace 3 of 4 so far, and I can attest that using anything but an OE Mopar part can result in having to replace it again fairly soon, as the aftermarkets just don't seem to last, at least on the Daytona. Pulling the glove box to gain access to the ones on the right is fairly straight forward, but I can tell you that as an older guy, my back ached for a couple days later, and my arms were scraped and cut up some. I did do the one on the driver's side, and it is a MAJOR PITA, necessitating tearing half the driver's side dash apart! As mr_et2 said, the parts aren't too expensive, but the labor is often the biggest cost if a shop does it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Going to a dealership is about as painful as going to a dentist. I'll be going to where I bought the car this Friday and see what the service mgr says. I'll post the update then. Thanks to all who replied.
 

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YMMV of course, but I've had a $12 chinese special in mine for 2 years with no issues yet. Of course, if you're getting it done at a shop and not a dealer, you're at their mercy as to where they get it from. When mine died 2 years ago my local shop quoted me "one hour labor plus parts", but not an exact $$$ amount. Hopefully they wont rake you over the coals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I finally had a new blend door actuator installed today. I bought the part at O'Reilly's. It cost $25 and had a Murrays sticker on it.
I first called the Jeep dealer to check on installation cost. They had the balls to say the estimate was between $400 and $1000 and the car would be at the shop for 5 days!!!
The O'Reilly people recommended Sun Auto...so that's where I went. Took them 1 hour and the cost was $180. I will never, ever, use the dealership for repairs.
 

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Glad it's working! And yeah, dealers are usually a rip-off.
 

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And now we all know why they are fondly referred to as "stealerships". :poop: I'm lucky enough to have a trusted independent shop near me that I sometimes use when it's either something I can't do, or don't have the time to do, and they give a 2-year parts AND labor warranty on most things.
 

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I'm having the same issue in my 2017... For those who might run into the problem in the future, I was able to "watch" the thing that was clicking.

I understand that there are three of these things, but for the one that is broken in my car: Kneeling on the ground with the driver door open, I was able to point a flashlight under the dash and towards the stereo and see the white plastic parts slamming together, making the clicking noise.

Having spent many decades working on low voltage electrical stuff, I think that there must be a "limit switch" inside the actuator that has failed, thus the motor isn't stopping when it should. Replacing the actuator also replaces the limit switch... so problem solved.

However, I am curious if the switch itself could be replaced or serviced. The sort of switches commonly used in these applications are "10 for $5" inexpensive. Anyway, when I replace mine in the coming weeks, I will take the old one apart and create a post if I find anything interesting.
 
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