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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. I've looked at a number of threads here on this topic and this forum has been very helpful in narrowing down the source of this problem. I picked up an 07 Patriot for a laughably low price the other day will the full knowledge that 1) it was stuck in Park, 2) the Brake lights (including the 3rd) did not work, and 3) a simple brake lamp switch replacement didn't fix it.

I used the override lever and drove it from Frisco, Colorado to Denver, about 100 miles, with no issues. I then used the troubleshooting info from another post...

Symptom: Shift Lever will not move to the right so that it can be moved out of the “Park” position.
Possible Cause: Brake lamp switch may be mis-adjusted.
Corrective Action: Turn the ignition to the “On” or “Run” position. Brake lamps must be on for the shifter solenoid to receive a signal. If the brake lamps switch is mis-adjusted, the solenoid will not be energized. Replace Brake Lamp Switch.

I tried replacing the brake lamp switch with another on the off chance that they didn't properly insert/adjust the first one. No luck. Moving on...

Possible Cause: No Voltage to Brake lamp switch from 10 amp fuse #3 in TIPM
Corrective Action: Repair circuit or fuse #3.


Indeed, there is no voltage on Pin 1 of the brake lamp switch. The 10A fuse is good - passes continuity check. I also checked for continuity from the non-power leg of the #3 fuse socket to Pin 1 of the brake lamp switch - fails. At this point I know there is no power getting to Pin 1, so even when Pin 2 is engaged via the switch there is no signal getting back to the the TIPM on C3, Pin 7. I also check Pin 2 on the brake lamp switch to C3, Pin 7 and it passed.

The people who sold me this vehicle had a very slight accident where the left front turn signal got hit. I replaced that assembly and when I had the splash guard out of the way, I saw that the accident was enough to pull some of the strain reliefs out and stress the wire harnesses. The wire in question is most likely broken or pulled out of a connecter, but there at least 3 wires with the same color code and none are obviously flawed.

At this point, does it make more sense to try to find the break and splice/fix it, or just run a new single wire from the TIPM to the brake switch? Maybe bring it to a mechanic who does auto electric?

I don't want to make a worse mess of already fragile wiring. At the same time, I have severe dealer aversion, as I suspect I'll be told that I need to jack up the radiator cap and replace everything underneath it with original Mopar parts..

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I know some of you have been here before.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Solved (workaround)

I did take it to a local mechanic. He deduced that there was indeed continuity from the hot wire connector at the TIPM to pin 1 of the stop light switch. Indeed applying 12v there (disconnected from TIPM) allowed brake lights to work along with releasing shift solenoid. As I mentioned before, the fuse is good. Some other signal is keeping the 12v from making it from the TIPM to the connector.

He did not want to take on the liability of bypassing whatever control module signal is keeping 12v from reaching the hot wire to the stop light switch. I have no such issue.

Since there is 12v on pin 3 of stop light switch, I tapped into this wire and brought it over to pin 1 after clipping the lead to pin 1 and capping off the part that goes back through the firewall.

And it all works. The only difference now is that brake lights come on only when the ignition switch is on. If that bothered me (which it doesn’t) I would find an unswitched hot wire nearby and tap into it with an inline 10 amp fuse.

If it hasn’t been done already, someone should catalog all the various TIPM workarounds people have come up with. It is a hellish piece of work.
 
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