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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a couple of starting issues lately. 1.The other day I went to start my pat and I turned the key over to the start position and the auxilery turned on but the starter motor didn't crank. So I turned the key to the off position and tryed again. The same thing happened. Then I took the key right out and tryed starting again. It started no problem. This happened a couple times that same day but has not happened again. 2. Different problem has also come up and has happened a couple times in the last month. I turn the key to start the engine and the starter cranks but the engine wont start. So I turn the key off and turn it again and it starts right away. This problem has happened a couple times in the last month. Any one else having issues like these.
 

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This would definately be a PCM problem, or a wiring issue. If your still under warranty, you should take it to the dealer asap.
 

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For number 1, I was thinking key too. You can get a copy of the key made, but it won't start the car.

For number 2, I'm just not sure.

I'd agree with a trip to the dealer. If you don;t like your dealer, maybe try another one. Maybe some folks here from your area can give you some names.
 

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This may sound dumb, but check your battery terminals for corrosion. Or better yet, even if they don't look corroded, pull them off and clean them (AND the battery posts) with a wire brush or some sandpaper. If nothing else, it's one check off the list of things that could be wrong.

WEIRD things (SERIOUSLY!) happen when the computer doesn't see the proper juice, and this sounds surprisingly familiar to an issue i had w/ a 94 Rodeo AND an 04 Malibu. In both cases, the terminals looked clean, but corrosion was evident once i actually removed them from the posts. I hit 'em with the terminal cleaner, and no more issues. :smiley_thumbs_up:

Better to take 5-10 mins to do this before you start ripping apart the dash or making appointments at the stealership. :D
 

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There was actually a TSB on this issue, and the answer is kinda funny really.

I experienced this issue several times myself and then started looking into it. What happens is that the chip inside the key actually builds up static electricity and wont send its signal to the receiver in the column. All you have to do when this happens is remove the key (like you did) and ground it. (I use the gear shift) This will get rid of any static build up in the key and allow it to function as normal. This condition is worsened by really cold or dry weather. if this is your problem there is nothing the dealership can do for you as they dont have an actual fix for it, and youll just be wasting their time and yours. The notice is basically just to let the service person know that A: Yes it happens and the customers not crazy, and B: there is nothing you can do about it. Hope this helps.


edit* After looking again it turns out there is a fix for it. But it looks like it only applies to older models. Try my suggestion and see if that fixes it, then proceed with the gutting of the steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I took my pat into the dealer again and they couldn't find anything. they can never reproduce any of my problems. They got in touch with chrysler tech line and the only thing that ended up being looked at were a couple of the main ecm wire conections. They inspected and cleaned connections C-103 and C-104 in the left side wheel well. The told me to monitor the problems and bring it back if it happens again. I guess i'll have to keep an eye on it then.
 

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I have a 2008 and my vehicle does the same thing as yours, it turns over but will not start. Sometimes I can try 2-3 times and it still won't start, but if I take the key out and put it back in, it starts. I got into an accident early 2009 and thought that maybe I damaged something and that was why or that maybe putting in BP gasoline was the problem, because it would only happen if I filled it up at BP.
 

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How new is this car to have a problem like this?
 

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There was actually a TSB on this issue, and the answer is kinda funny really.

I experienced this issue several times myself and then started looking into it. What happens is that the chip inside the key actually builds up static electricity and wont send its signal to the receiver in the column. All you have to do when this happens is remove the key (like you did) and ground it. (I use the gear shift) This will get rid of any static build up in the key and allow it to function as normal. This condition is worsened by really cold or dry weather. if this is your problem there is nothing the dealership can do for you as they dont have an actual fix for it, and youll just be wasting their time and yours. The notice is basically just to let the service person know that A: Yes it happens and the customers not crazy, and B: there is nothing you can do about it. Hope this helps.
I experienced this today on my 07 Patriot. Had no idea what was happening at the time and thought I'd have to call for a tow truck to get home. I was wearing nylon pants (laundry day) on a warm dry day and the static build up must have forced the chip into some protective mode. Removing the key and trying again, turning the key very slowly (which probably discharged it) worked.
 

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my patriot acted weird yesterday, I turned the key, thought it had started, then noticed the check engine light was on. tried to re-start it and it didnt go. acted like it was flooded, 4th try and it struggled but started. is it possible to flood an EFI engine?
 

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Problems with 07 patriot

I purchased an 07 patriot yesterday after test driving it 3 times this week. Everything seemed be in working order, no problems. Today I get in and it won't start. I got a jump and it ran fine on the way to autozone but with the check engine light on. They tested the battery, it was fine. They plugged in their computer and it said to see manufacturer. It started up several times while I was there and then when I went to start it to leave, it needed a jump. It started fine with the jump and I was able to drive it home. Does anyone have any idea at all what is going on with this thing?? perhaps the starter? This is a nightmare!
 

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I purchased an 07 patriot yesterday after test driving it 3 times this week. Everything seemed be in working order, no problems. Today I get in and it won't start. I got a jump and it ran fine on the way to autozone but with the check engine light on. They tested the battery, it was fine. They plugged in their computer and it said to see manufacturer. It started up several times while I was there and then when I went to start it to leave, it needed a jump. It started fine with the jump and I was able to drive it home. Does anyone have any idea at all what is going on with this thing?? perhaps the starter? This is a nightmare!
They key statement I read that was immediately familiar was, "struggled to start". This was the exact symptom I've had before that required a PCM reset.

You may have a bad EPROM onboard your PCM (computer), bad wiring, connector, etc that may have perhaps caused something to go wrong when the computer was writing to memory. Based on my experiences, the computer in our Patriot is very sensitive. In the past (even before my Computer was Tuned) when I had my ScanGauge plugged in, I would on rare occasion for seemingly no reason see a strange DTC code relating to the PCM.

Like you, I had a similar problem starting the engine, where it was clearly 'struggling', so I wound up resetting the PCM. Afterwards, the Patriot started just fine and the PCM began the Adaptive Learning Mode. It easy to do, just follow the directions under the "Forced Flash" section here: http://www.avengerforumz.com/showthread.php?t=40089

*Note: DO NOT touch the positive battery cable to the ground terminal on the battery. Instead, you need to touch (ground) the positive battery cable to a solid metal part of your vehicle's frame.
 

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Just experianced the static build-up no start issue today.

There was actually a TSB on this issue, and the answer is kinda funny really.

I experienced this issue several times myself and then started looking into it. What happens is that the chip inside the key actually builds up static electricity and wont send its signal to the receiver in the column. All you have to do when this happens is remove the key (like you did) and ground it. (I use the gear shift) This will get rid of any static build up in the key and allow it to function as normal. This condition is worsened by really cold or dry weather. if this is your problem there is nothing the dealership can do for you as they dont have an actual fix for it, and youll just be wasting their time and yours. The notice is basically just to let the service person know that A: Yes it happens and the customers not crazy, and B: there is nothing you can do about it. Hope this helps.


edit* After looking again it turns out there is a fix for it. But it looks like it only applies to older models. Try my suggestion and see if that fixes it, then proceed with the gutting of the steering column.
We just experienced this issue with our 2008 Patriot for the first time today.

Do you happen to have a link to the related TSB and solution? I'm not sure where I would find that. .
 

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I'm not sure if this is the Service Bulletin you are talking about or not (if not, just ignore.)

NUMBER: 08-007-08 REV. A
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: July 04, 2008

SUBJECT:
No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM / SKREEM
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
MODELS:
2007 - 2008 (DR/DH/D1/DC/DM) Ram Truck (1500/2500/3500/4500/5500)
2007 - 2008 (JK) Wrangler
2007 - 2008 (J1) Sebring (China)
2007 - 2008 (JS) Avenger/Sebring
2007 - 2008 (KA) Nitro
2008 (KK) Liberty/Cherokee
2007 - 2008 (MK) Compass/Patriot
2007 - 2008 (PM) Caliber
2006 - 2008 (PT) Chrysler PT Cruiser
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles built on or before May 05, 2008 (MDH
0505XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an
electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module
(WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more
frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM.
 
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