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Discussion Starter #1
TOOLS REQUIRED;

15/16"/ 2-18mm's/ 17mm/ 15mm wrenchs , 18mm & 13/16" sockets , flex head and regular ratchet and alignment pins/bars.

High quality grease or anti-sieze, this is synthetic that I've used for years.

Thread locking compound, I prefer Loctite 271............

A pair of floor jacks and a jackstand, 4x4 chocks and don't foget the wheel blocks to prevent roll-off!

13mm & 15mm sockets , good gloves , real prybar , small soft hammer extension and 3/8'" ratchet.

Inventory parts again....

Position a jack under the control arm, I use a old spring isolater as a grip/non marr attachment.

FRONT INSTALL;

Break lower strut bolts loose and unseat them as they are press fit at the shoulder. Remove the lower 13mm brake line bolt on the strut case and the 15mm sway bar link nut. Use the small floor jack to release tension on the sway bar to enable the link to seperate.

Upper fasteners also, remember that it is supported from below............

Release tension on jack and press down on the rotor while checking that everything is clear and not snagging on the brake lines. Use your foot for the rotor while watching from up top.

When everything is nice and free, work the lower strut flange off of the steering knuckle while supporting its weight. About 20 lbs. Ease the assembly out towards the rear of the Jeep from the bottom first then let the top of the strut follow. Up on the bench it goes.............................

Bolt up the spacer with the nuts that RR suplied. Use Locktite...... Notice how the prybar is jammed into the space between another nut and the spacer. The other end of the prybar is on my shoulder.

Reposition the strut on the knuckle down below and check to see if the upper studs line up with the holes. If not, just drop it down and twist the top, it moves with some force.Once aligned, use the jack to lift it in place.

Time to torque everything down and check it all again. Notice that the adjustable camber bolt is in the top hole on the knuckle. Brake line is refastened and upper nuts have been torqued. The sway bar link extensions go in as shown. Double check everything...........
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
REAR INSTALL;

Locate upper fasteners and remove them.

Sway bar link next, just the nut.

Lower shock nut too.

Lower knuckle nut.

Outer radius arm nut.

Inner radius arm bolt until it is nice and loose, but don't take it out yet.

Now use a jack to support the lower arm by placing a spacer(socket) on the lower eye of the shock. Lift it up slowly and all the tension will be released from the fasteners that were just loosened. Go ahead and remove the all now.

As shown, the lower arm can be pushed out of the way after the jack is removed. The coilover shock assembly will pratically fall out in your arms.

Adjust new radius arms to required spec's(about 1/8" shorter than stock).

Bolt spacers on top and note that nuts will not clear if they are not all put on at the same time. Be sure to use prybar and torque them now as there is not enough room when installed!

Pry bar location.......to allow torquing the opposite side.

Ready to re-install.

Assemble lower shock connection first.

Wrench bolt in and leave nut off.

Use alignment pins to do the work for you. The lower knuckle bolt is second.

A pin in the very bottom gaps will help get the bolt thru on it's own thread power. Remember, no hammers allowed for re-assembly!

Use ratchet head to slightly spread the radius arm flanges.

Drop in radius arm and finger tighten inner bolt.

Thread in outer radius arm bolt.

Now begin retorquing. Starting with the inner radius arm first due to access when everything else is assembled.

If all your nuts were kept in one place, you won't have to move or get up to torque the rest.

Do the outer radius arm and the sway bar next to last.

Because this is last. It is nice to aquire habits to not allow mistakes of leaving fasteners loose or off. Now go back and check every thing again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
---------------------BEFORE-------------------------




--------------------AFTER---------------------------




If anyone has any comments, corrections or questions please let me know. I'll do my best to answer them.
hvac59
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well,
I decided to take a chance and stop at the dealer today! They had a few cancelations and took my Jeep in for an alignment. Glad it's on my way to work. The parts dept. guy's had to come out and take a look and brought two tech's out to. This is the first Patriot they have seen lifted. Anyway, here is the results and the ride quality is back to stock......................One minor complaint is that the steering wheel is ever so slightly "OFF" to right. I might try to ceter it myself and do a write-up on just that. Also, the tech report states that the "PINION FACTOR" was adjusted to 3%(as close as it can be with these tires),,,,,but on the way home my GPS is still reading about 10% faster than the speedo':confused:. I'll have to get it rechecked:(.

Note the right(pass) rear is good,but not exactly in spec. The tech said that that is all the adjustment that can be made.

hvac59

 

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two thumbs up for ur skills !:smiley_thumbs_up:

can u help me decide how can i gain in 08 patriot sport without installing lift kit for conceptual experiment.

i ran quick numbers on miata.net's tire calculator,,,

if i go from 205.70.16 to 225.70.16, it increases the diamter from 27.3 inches to 28.4 inches, giving me approx. 0.5 inches additional clearance.

and if i go to 235.70.16 it will give me 0.9 inche or approx 1 inche additional clerance to total 9 inche clearance.

i can get same results from 205.80.16.

now questiona is can i fit 235.70.16 or 205.80.16 in patriot sport without any damage ?
 

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nice!

quick Q. how much did the dealer charge for the alignment?
 

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Nice job I like it alot, been thinking about it myself.
what kit did you get and where did you get it?
also how much $$?
what is it about 2in?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
To all,
It is all Rocky Road euipment. The dealer charged me for a 1.5 hour job(flat rate), which equals $90 here! To get lift without the RR pieces, one could use up to an approx. 5/8" spacer on top of the assemblies. This will still use the factory studs. The cost & time to fab them would be in excess of the RR package value(IMO), although just looking for an additional 1" of height it would be doable.
hvac59
 

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Lifetime Warranty

This modification can invalid my Jeep Patriot Lifetime Warranty??? Please let me know, I want to Grow up my PATRIOT.

P.D. I also need to know the size of your Wheels and Tires they look great
 

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Jeep.com and their response to lift warranty questions

This modification can invalid my Jeep Patriot Lifetime Warranty??? Please let me know, I want to Grow up my PATRIOT.

P.D. I also need to know the size of your Wheels and Tires they look great
I too am looking into getting the lift kit. I e-mailed Jeep.com and this is the reply I got back...

"Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
regarding the warranty information.

We appreciate the time and effort you took to write to us.

In response to your email regarding the warranty information, we suggest
that you give your local dealer the opportunity to assist you with your
concern. Their service personnel have the factory training, equipment
and information available to assist you further.

If the dealer has been unable to determine or resolve your concerns, you
can seek a second opinion from another authorized dealership.

You can also locate a dealer on the "Find a Dealer" area in the Jeep
website.

Mentioned below are the names and addresses of the five star dealers in
your vicinity:..."

Then it went on to list me some dealers in my area. I will be seeing my dealership soon and will try to get a real response back shortly.

--Update-- So the dealership said they couldnt see it changing the powertrain warranty but it might affect any parts that were changed or modified. So if I modify a part and it breaks it wouldnt be covered... can't have everything.
 

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I spoke to my local dealer about the RR lift kit. They said they will cover my warranty as long as it doesn't damage any parts of the vehicle (which is doesn't, uses stock suspension parts) the service manager even recommended a shop where they send other people who have bought jeeps for lift kits.
 

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In a perfect world

--Update-- So the dealership said they couldnt see it changing the powertrain warranty but it might affect any parts that were changed or modified. So if I modify a part and it breaks it wouldnt be covered... can't have everything.
Thats how it should work,
but you are at the mercy of the dealer,
some are stricter than others,

I couldnt get a faulty head gasket covered on my neon because i had aftermarket struts,
that was at 55K miles with a 100K mile warranty,
dealer stated they wouldnt cover any car that has been modified,
2 other dealers tried to negotiate, wanting to charge me $400-$500 for a $700-$800 job,
finally a fourth dealer covered it charging me the $80 diagnostic fee.
 

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---------------------BEFORE-------------------------




--------------------AFTER---------------------------




If anyone has any comments, corrections or questions please let me know. I'll do my best to answer them.
hvac59
Nice to see THREE white Jeeps :smiley_thumbs_up:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks.........................................
 

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HVAC, did you mention wheels and tires sizes? Please do if I missed it.
Nice results from your effort....kudos.
Those of us who don't have the tools and the skills that go with them are drooling!!:D
I put some gas shocks and struts all around on my '89 Cherokee way back when and managed over 1" of lift and a much improved ride along with taller rubbers.
Of course, here in FLA my wife won't be digging out from any big dumps, so I think just taller/wider booties when her 215/65/17 SRAs are done. Maybe a 235/65/17.
 
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