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2014 Jeep Patriot, North Ed.
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Another thing to inspect, if your radio only has static while the engine is running - ignition condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I'll check again. I think the static was just as bad with the ignition off.

It sounds OK today of course, engine off or on.

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Update. I cleaned the engine to body strap and good to body strap. The corrosion wasn't too bad. I couldn't find G250 for the ground bolt. It might be on the left, not the right a pillar. There were no ground straps on any of the lower struts that I could find. The same for the muffler. Perhaps they were deleted in later builds.

I checked the continuity from the tip of the mast to the tip of the intermediate "Motorola" connector behind the passenger kick panel.

I still have to check it from the intermediate connector to the radio. I also need to find the radio ground bolt and the radio noise suppression capacitor. I can't even find it in the Radio diagram. I did however find an Ignition capacitor in the diagram. Ihave to check the wire color to see if it matches.

My wife said that starting this afternoon, stations come in pretty well with the engine off, and while running. However, when the engine is propelling the vehicle, the radio stations develop more static that would be expected. Could this be the capacitor or condenser? How would I test it?

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
The only directions I can find are to isolate the ignition capacitor from the vehicle and do a bench test. I bought a Digital MultiMeter that will read capacitance. The new one isn't very expensive.
When i search store.mopar.com i get two parts
- 68080837AB
- 4606866AA

It looks one uses a single terminal sealed connector(68080837AB) and the other one uses an unsealed 1/4 inch quick disconnect plug(4606866AA). Once I have 10 minutes with the vehicle, I'll see what is the correct one.

I'll probe the origination and a replacement and see if they have similar capacitance ratings. I have no idea what the expected value is. I can only guess that a bad reading would be.

I am still unsure why the service manual would refer to a Radio Noise suppression capacitor and an ignition capacitor separately, with different directions and illustrations. There very well could be two different parts. The electical diagram does not show a Radio noise suppression capacitor, however the ignition diagram does have an ignition capacitor.
 

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2014 Jeep Patriot, North Ed.
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From videos I saw online, the testing of the capacitor has more to do with it being able to maintain a charge. They say to use your DC volt setting to drain the capacitor and I think it was your ohm setting to charge it. Then recheck with volt setting. It's supposed to maintain a charge of like 100-300 volts.

But I'm sure someone with more experience can chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Once I have access to her vehicle I will test it. It looks like both Jeep and Ford call this same part two different names depending on the system being tested.
Jeep: The radio system calls it a radio noise suppressor. While the ignition system calls it an Ignition Capacitor.
Ford: The radio systems calls it a Radio Interference Capacitor . While the ignition system calls it an Ignition Transformer capacitor.

The radio diagram does not show this part, however it can be found in the ignition diagram. It is connected to the hot side of all the ignition coils and grounded to the engine block.

Testing seems simple. remove it from the vehicle and connect it 24AWG wires to jamb into the capacitor test holes of a DMM.
I found this and it seems more simple the longer I think about it. I still have to remove it so I can decide on which replacement to use if it is bad. I am not sure why neither ford or jeep call out test values of the capacitor. I wonder if I search for another vehicle if it does.
https://itstillruns.com/test-ignition-capacitors-7922558.html

If these two items are separate and mutually exclusive, I have found no evidence to this.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
So I finally got some daylight time with the vehicle. I found the radio/ignition capacitor and need to test it. I got a digital multi meter that will read capacitance.

For future reference, it's not in the passenger side rear of the engine, it's on the driver's side. It mounted to the head near the air box in my 2014.






It looks like part 68080837AB with the sealed connector is correct. I'll test it, clean up the grounds and write back.

Here's Mopar's part drawing. Pretty poor for finding it.


https://www.moparpart.com/oem-parts/mopar-capacitor-68080837ab?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9aWduaXRpb24tc3lzdGVtJmw9MSZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9amVlcCZvPXBhdHJpb3QmeT0yMDE0JnQ9bGltaXRlZCZlPTItNGwtbDQtZ2Fz



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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Update. I pulled it out and it reads 0.457 farads. Used solid cat 5 stands to jam on into the cap reader. It holds steady. So I cleaned up the bolt hole on the block and the ground lead on the cap. We will see how it goes. The only thing left would be to just buy a new one for under $10 just to confirm the value. I pulled the one from my 08 mariner. It reads 0.257 farads. I also cleaned the ground eyelet for the PCM on the air box.

For future reference I pulled the oil-filler breather hose from the air box, and the PCM ground to get access to the capacitor. I only need a 10mm box head wrench.

I also checked and got decent continuity from the hot lead of the cap to the hot lead on the #4 ignition coil.

I guess I could add grounds staps to the muffler and the front struts.

Last step would be an aftermarket radio.

Here's another pic of it re installed.

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
So I went through service manual again with some fresh eyes. Here is the troubleshooting procedure did poor radio reception.
IT section, you use an ohm meter on the antenna coax, linked here.


It failed in test 4 and passed all the rest.

There is a coax in-line connector behind the passenger kick plate. There is no connectivity on the shield with the fender. So, I think have to get this tool and remove the antenna base.


This should work, has anyone tried it before?


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Discussion Starter #30
The tool has yet to arrive. I visited some junk yards to test and recover. I used a pair of locking pliers and was not able to loosen any antenna bases on the fenders. I fear I tool may have this issue. I'll have to spray down the base with some PB blaster to get it to loosen. However those that I did test, had conninutity between the fender bolts and the Motorola shield of the connector. I should be visiting another junk yard soon. I'll try some penetrating oil and the propper wrench to see if I can loosen those up. I'd hate to do more damage than good here.
 

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I took my antenna off once, in order to replace it with one of those short rubbery ones... got horrible reception so put the original one back. Anyway, it was a PITA to get off. I ended up using a crow foot wrench, and a long handle ratchet to get it off.
 
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