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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For a while now no radio stations would come in.

I can be in Albany NY or New York city and 3 stations would come in and two will be full of static. I am at the second dealer trying get this issue resolved. They say there is no Active code. There was a pending code saying the antenna WAS disconnected. The first dealer said, "Nope we get stations, bye" and I was too defeted to get them to do anything. I had other repairs I had to fight to get them to work on.

The second dealer said they can't replace parts w/o an ACTIVE code. They can't even test with a "test antenna"
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I spoke with fiat Chrysler corporate. After dealing with one rep denying that I have max care, I got escalated to another rep. Jeep support is going to have dealer open a STAR Case with corporate.

Updates to come.

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I don't suppose you are using any LED bulbs? Believe it or not, LED bulbs can cause noise in the radio. Try turning your lights off and see if it improves.

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All incandescent bulbs installed.
Well, in that case--when all else fails with electrical issues--it's time to check ALL the grounds. There's a gob of wires under the battery box which become infected by battery residue. I'd start there! Get a good VOM, and check for proper continuity from frame to engine to battery, etc. for a start. Could also be something obvious once battery box is removed. Good Luck!
 

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Well this is the first of me hearing this type of hogwash in the over 20 or so years of installing radios & LED's in vehicles lol :D Do you have any documentation to back up this claim? Both my current vehicles have all halogens changed over to LED's and crystal clear. You also do realize that as each model year continues OEM LED's are replacing nearly every halogen bulb in most every vehicle in production?

I don't suppose you are using any LED bulbs? Believe it or not, LED bulbs can cause noise in the radio. Try turning your lights off and see if it improves.

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Here is a video of what it did last night. Now intermittent no audio. Until it comes back.

My wife took this video


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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)

Sounds like the tuner chip is failing. Bt, CD, SAT all work fine. Tuner went from from static reception to no audio.
Unit has RES in the right corner

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Well this is the first of me hearing this type of hogwash in the over 20 or so years of installing radios & LED's in vehicles lol :D Do you have any documentation to back up this claim? Both my current vehicles have all halogens changed over to LED's and crystal clear. You also do realize that as each model year continues OEM LED's are replacing nearly every halogen bulb in most every vehicle in production?
Well, while I wouldn't want to match wits with someone with a considerable 20+ yrs of experience changing light bulbs, I would hate to see them watch a 30 sec video of hogwash or look at the results of a 20 sec google search.
A lot of new vehicles are utilizing HID, not LED. I also cant seem to remember which model patriot came with factory LED?


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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well this is the first of me hearing this type of hogwash in the over 20 or so years of installing radios & LED's in vehicles lol :D Do you have any documentation to back up this claim? Both my current vehicles have all halogens changed over to LED's and crystal clear. You also do realize that as each model year continues OEM LED's are replacing nearly every halogen bulb in most every vehicle in production?
Standard bulbs. I replaced one of "fog" light bulbs. I used a standard part number 2504. Those are expensive.

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
So they replaced the radio back in the fall. The reception has been been better. It's been slowly getting bad after the warranty expired. I have since bought the service manual and found this.

I had to argue with corporate to get this new radio b/c the dumb techs "couldn't reproduce the issue".

I have since replaced the factory spark plugs with NGK V-Power Spark Plug Part No: 2262. I am told this is the correct part. Should I be using mopar plugs instead?



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The resistor type plugs will have an R in their model like ZFR5F-11. Doesn't matter whether they are Mopar or NGK. Mopar plugs are just rebranded NGKs anyhow. As long as the specs are the same it doesn't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I'm not sure. That's not the part number I got. I will pull one and check. But the listing AAP's site calls them part 2262 ngk v power. I'll check and see if they are the same as ZFR5F-11


Looks they they are supposed to be it. 2262 is the item number for part number ZFR5F-11
Should I pull them and check then with an DVOM, and make sure they read 10 K ohm?

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10210

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Unless you're having a problem with the plugs I'm sure they're fine. Change them or at the very least check for wear on the electrode and regap at the service interval.

ZFR5F-11 are the plugs for the car. So if that's what you have in and they are running without codes or some weird stumble/hesitation/or other problem than you're fine.

Mopar lists the plug as SP0ZFR5F-11 with a 0.43 gap whereas the NGKs are just ZFR5F-11 with a 0.44 gap.

Both work the same and the SP0 at the front of the Mopar one just signifies the gap change (or stands for spark plug zero difference lol) - which I've tried both ways and it makes no difference. Just a way for them to get people into buying they're plugs because they are different and "special"
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
OK. Well the vehicle doesn't seem to have any ignition problems. I should concentrate on the antenna mast, a loose ground and check the capacitor.
I'll copy paste the radio reception section from the service manual here for future reference. I'll add a final post if I figure out the cause of the problem.

Note: thses posts look best in the web view.

Service Manual - Troubleshooting radio reception
  1. Antenna faulty.
    - Refer to BODY AND CABLE, ANTENNA, DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
  2. Radio ground faulty
    - Check for continuity between radio chassis and a known good ground. There should be continuity. Repair ground, if required.
  3. Radio noise suppression faulty.
    - Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
  4. Radio faulty.
    - Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service information
  5. Faulty rear window defogger
    -Verify that the rear defogger grid is functioning properly, repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
The following four tests are used to diagnose the antenna with an ohmmeter:
  • TEST 1 - Mast to ground test
  • TEST 2 - Tip-of-mast to tip-of-conductor test
  • TEST 3 - Body ground to battery ground test
  • TEST 4 - Body ground to antenna coaxial cable shield test.
The ohmmeter test lead connections for each test are shown in the illustration.

WARNING: Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, seat belt tensioner, side airbag or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery (ground) cable. Wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to follow these instructions may result in accidental airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury.

NOTE: This model has a two-piece antenna coaxial cable. Tests 2 and 4 must be conducted in two steps to isolate an antenna cable problem.
First, test the primary antenna cable (integral to the antenna body and cable) from the coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel to the antenna body.
Then, test the secondary antenna cable (instrument panel antenna cable) from the coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel to the coaxial cable connector at the radio.


Fig. 5: Ohmmeter Test Lead Connections Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC

TEST 1
Test 1 determines if the antenna mast is insulated from ground. Proceed as
follows:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel.
  2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast (below tip if ball tip is plastic). Touch the other test lead to the antenna cap nut. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  3. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to Test 2. If not OK, replace the faulty antenna body and cable.
TEST 2
Test 2 checks the antenna conductor components for an open circuit. This test should be performed first on the entire antenna circuit, from the antenna mast to the center conductor of the coaxial cable connector at the radio. If an open circuit is detected, each of the three antenna conductor components (antenna mast, antenna body and primary cable unit, instrument panel antenna secondary cable) should be isolated and tested individually to locate the exact component that is the source of the open circuit. To begin this test, proceed as follows:
  1. Disconnect the instrument panel (secondary) antenna cable coaxial connector from the back of the radio.
  2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to the tip of the antenna mast. Touch the other test lead to the center conductor pin of the instrument panel antenna cable coaxial connector for the radio. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  3. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register only a fraction of an ohm resistance. High or infinite resistance indicates a damaged or open antenna conductor. If OK, go to Test 3. If not OK, isolate and test each of the individual antenna conductor components. Replace only the faulty antenna conductor component.
TEST 3
Test 3 checks the condition of the vehicle body ground connection. To begin this test, proceed as follows:
  1. This test must be performed with the battery positive cable disconnected from the battery. Disconnect and isolate both battery cables, negative cable first.
  2. Reconnect the battery negative cable.
  3. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other test lead to the battery negative terminal post. Check
    the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  4. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register less than one ohm resistance. High or infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or
    damaged connection between the battery negative terminal and the vehicle body. If OK, go to Test 4. If not OK, check the battery negative cable connection to the vehicle body and the radio noise suppression ground strap connections to the engine and the vehicle body for being loose or corroded. Clean or tighten these connections as required.
TEST 4
Test 4 checks the condition of the connection between the antenna coaxial cable
shield and the vehicle body ground as follows:
  1. Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel.
  2. Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other test lead to the outer crimp on the antenna coaxial cable connector under the right end of the instrument panel near the right cowl side inner panel. Check the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
  3. There should be continuity. The ohmmeter should register less than one ohm resistance. High or infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or damaged connection between the antenna body and the vehicle body or between the antenna body and the antenna coaxial cable shield. If not OK, clean the antenna body to fender mating surfaces and tighten the antenna cap nut to specifications.
  4. Check the resistance again with an ohmmeter. If the resistance is still more then one ohm, replace the faulty antenna body and cable.
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Service Manual - Troubleshooting radio reception
  1. Antenna faulty.
    - Refer to BODY AND CABLE, ANTENNA, DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING[/B]
  2. Radio ground faulty
    - Check for continuity between radio chassis and a known good ground. There should be continuity. Repair ground, if required.
  3. Radio noise suppression faulty.
    - Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
  4. Radio faulty.
    - Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service information
  5. Faulty rear window defogger
    -Verify that the rear defogger grid is functioning properly, repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
G250 is Ground for Radio and Handsfree Module.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Service Manual - Troubleshooting radio reception
  1. Antenna faulty.
    - Refer to BODY AND CABLE, ANTENNA, DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING[/B]
  2. Radio ground faulty
    - Check for continuity between radio chassis and a known good ground. There should be continuity. Repair ground, if required.
  3. Radio noise suppression faulty.
    - Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
  4. Radio faulty.
    - Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service information
  5. Faulty rear window defogger
    -Verify that the rear defogger grid is functioning properly, repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ENGINE GROUND STRAP - Refer to ENGINE GROUND STRAP.
HOOD HINGE GROUND STRAP - Refer to HOOD HINGE GROUND STRAP.
MUFFLER GROUND STRAP - Refer to MUFFLER GROUND STRAP.
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION CAPACITOR- Refer to RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION CAPACITOR.
STRUT BRACKET TO BODY - GROUND STRAP Refer to STRUT BRACKET TO BODY GROUND STRAP.

REMOVAL
ENGINE GROUND STRAP
  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Fig. 12: Ground Strap To Engine (1.6L)
  2. For the 1.6L Engine, remove bolt from engine cylinder head. Fig. 13: Ground Strap To Engine (2.0L/2.4L)
  3. For the 2.0/2.4L Engine, remove bolt from engine cylinder head.
    Fig. 14: Ground Strap To Engine (2.2L)
  4. For the 2.2L Engine, remove bolt from engine cylinder head.
    Fig. 15: Ground Strap To Strut Tower
  5. Remove bolt from strut tower and remove strap.
HOOD HINGE GROUND STRAP
Fig. 16: Hood Hinge Ground Strap

  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Remove bolt from fender.
  3. Remove bolt from hood and remove strap.
MUFFLER GROUND STRAP

Fig. 17: Rear Floor Pan Bolt

  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Remove bolt from rear floor pan.
  3. Remove bolt from muffler and remove strap.

RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION CAPACITOR
Fig. 18: Radio Noise Capacitor - Typical

  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Disconnect electrical harness connector from capacitor (1).
  3. Remove bolt from capacitor and remove capacitor.
STRUT BRACKET TO BODY GROUND STRAP
Fig. 19: Strut Bracket To Body Ground Strap

  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Remove bolt from strut.
  3. Remove strap from frame rail.
COMPONENT LOCATION
ENGINE GROUND STRAP
Refer to ENGINE GROUND
STRAP.
HOOD HINGE GROUND STRAP
Refer to HOOD HINGE GROUND
STRAP.
MUFFLER GROUND STRAP
Refer to MUFFLER GROUND
STRAP.
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION
CAPACITOR
Refer to RADIO NOISE
SUPPRESSION CAPACITOR.
STRUT BRACKET TO BODY
GROUND STRAP
Refer to STRUT BRACKET TO
BODY GROUND STRAP.

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ENGINE GROUND STRAP
Fig. 20: Ground Strap To Engine (2.2L)

  1. Install strap and bolt to strut tower. Tighten bolt to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
  2. Install strap and bolt to engine cylinder head. Tighten bolt to 28 N.m (21 ft.
    lbs.).
  3. Connect battery negative cable.
HOOD HINGE GROUND STRAP
Fig. 21: Hood Hinge Ground Strap

  1. Install strap and bolt to fender. Tighten bolt to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
  2. Install strap and bolt to hood. Tighten bolt to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
  3. Connect battery negative cable.
MUFFLER GROUND STRAP

Fig. 22: Rear Floor Pan Bolt

  1. Install strap and bolt to rear floor pan. Tighten bolt to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.).
  2. Install strap and bolt to muffler. Tighten bolt to 8 N.m (71 in. lbs.).
  3. Connect battery negative cable.
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION CAPACITOR
Fig. 23: Radio Noise Capacitor - Typical

  1. Install capacitor and bolt.
  2. Connect electrical harness connector to capacitor.
  3. Connect battery negative cable.

STRUT BRACKET TO BODY GROUND STRAP
Fig. 24: Strut Bracket To Body Ground Strap

  1. Install strap to frame rail.
  2. Install strap and bolt to strut. Tighten bolt to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
  3. Connect battery negative cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Service Manual - Troubleshooting radio reception
  1. Antenna faulty.
    - Refer to BODY AND CABLE, ANTENNA, DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
  2. Radio ground faulty
    - Check for continuity between radio chassis and a known good ground. There should be continuity. Repair ground, if required.
  3. Radio noise suppression faulty.
    - Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
  4. Radio faulty.
    - Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service information
  5. Faulty rear window defogger
    -Verify that the rear defogger grid is functioning properly, repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Service Manual - Troubleshooting radio reception
  1. Antenna faulty.
    - Refer to BODY AND CABLE, ANTENNA, DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
  2. Radio ground faulty
    - Check for continuity between radio chassis and a known good ground. There should be continuity. Repair ground, if required.
  3. Radio noise suppression faulty.
    - Repair or replace ground strap as necessary.
  4. Radio faulty.
    - Refer to appropriate Diagnostic Service information
  5. Faulty rear window defogger
    -Verify that the rear defogger grid is functioning properly, repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ELECTRIC BACKLIGHT (EBL) SYSTEM
Operation of the electrical backlight (EBL) system can be confirmed by the following:

NOTE: Illumination of the defogger switch indicator lamp does not necessarily mean that electrical current is reaching
the rear window glass and/or the outside rear view mirror heating grids (when equipped).

NOTE: For circuit descriptions and diagrams of the rear window defogger (EBL) and heated mirror systems, refer to the
appropriate Wiring Information.

Fig. 3: View Of Rear Window Glass Grid Test



NOTE: Typical heated rear window glass shown. terminal and that there is continuity to ground. ? When diagnosing a heated mirror concern, check the heated mirror circuit fuse located in the TIPM. The fuse must be in the receptacle and
all electrical connections must be secure.
  1. Use a scan tool and check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the rear window defogger switch, cabin compartment node (CCN) and the totally integrated power module (TIPM). If no DTCs are found, go to 2. If any DTCs are found, repair as required, then proceed to step 2.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN. Set the rear window defogger switch to ON. Rear window defogger operation can be checked by feeling the rear window glass (1), or the heated outside rear view mirror glass when equipped with heated mirrors. A distinct difference in temperature between the grid lines (2) and the adjacent clear glass or the heated mirror glass should be detected within 3 to 4 minutes of operation.
  3. If a temperature difference is not detected, use a 12-volt DC voltmeter (6) and contact the rear glass heating grid terminal A (5) with the positive lead, and terminal B (7) with the negative lead. The voltmeter should read battery voltage. If the voltmeter does not read battery voltage, check the following:
    - Confirm the ignition switch is in RUN.
    - Confirm the rear window defogger switch is ON.
    - Confirm the EBL feed wire is connected to the heating grid positive terminal and that there is continuity between the TIPM and the heating grid.
    - Confirm the EBL ground wire is connected to the heating grid negative
  4. If broken defogger grid lines or bus bars (3) are suspected, use a 12-volt DC voltmeter and contact terminal B with the negative lead and each rear glass heating grid line at its mid-point C (4) with the positive lead. The voltmeter should read approximately 6 volts at each grid line mid-point. If the voltmeter does not read approximately 6 volts, repair the open grid line(s) or bus bar(s). Refer to GRID, DEFOGGER, STANDARD PROCEDURE.
  5. If EBL system operation has been verified but the rear window defogger indicator does not illuminate, replace the A/C-heater control. Refer to CONTROL, A/C AND HEATER, REMOVAL
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Checks completed - Work in progress
  1. Spark Plugs - Completed - Engine performance OK.
  2. Radio ground - Not Checked
  3. Body Ground straps - partial Check
    - Hood to body cleaned and checked OK
    - passenger-side bare ground strap to engine - terminals cleaned and checked out ok
    - front strut to body - not checked

  4. Engine noise capacitor - Not Checked
  5. Radio Faulty - Partial check. No DTCs found with ODBLink MX and Torque for Android
  6. Rear Defogger - Not Checked
 
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