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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this in general discussion section, maybe I should have posted it here


Hey all, new to the forum

I’m looking to buy my mother a Patriot. I’m in Michigan so we do get snow and ice roads in winter, I’m looking for a 4x4.

Any years to avoid? Is there a good buyers guide? I heard something about avoiding a cvt trans? I’m definitely a noob here. Any help in pointing me to the right direction would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Welcome!

One thing to be on the lookout for in your area is front and rear sub-frame/cross-member rust. It can happen on any year and model.

Not sure what your budget is, but if you want an automatic 4x4 try looking at '14 and newer w/o the off-road package.

The CVT's can last a long time (200k+) if they've had regular fluid and filter changes at 30-50K miles, but the change intervals in the manual are way off so many of them ended up being neglected.
 

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The early years of the Patriot some had leaky sunroofs. There are threads on here about how to solve the problem.

As for the CVT, my 2008 Patriot had the CVT and I (wrongly) waited till 120,000 to change the fluid and filters. Unfortunately, it only made it to 110,000 before I had problems. Thankfully it was replaced under warranty and the second CVT went to 270,000 miles but that one got serviced every 50,000.

Presently we have a 2014 Patriot with the 5-spd manual. It's at 140,000 and no problems. Clutch has had a chatter in reverse since new but it works just fine so I don't care.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies, a few more details to note

must be an automatic
the max I think I want to spend is 10k
Right now I’m looking at a a 2014 latitude sport with 68k miles. Guy has it listed for 11k but said 10k would be bottom dollar. Second owner, first was a 2 year lease, clean title. Not sure if it’s a great deal but looks like one of the better ones so far. I prefer leather but those go up in price.

im not familiar with the off road package that you mention not to buy?

also any other common issues to note?
 

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Here are pics of the one I mentioned, I asked the guy if the door handles and rims are plasti dipped and he said he didn’t know as it’s his wife’s car so he asked her and she didn’t know either 🤷🏻‍♂️ I’m personally not a fan of that look. I like the grey or silver wheels more. Also just noticed some stains on the driveway, hope it’s not related to this car
 

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It appears to be the off-road FDII model. It has tow hooks and the shifter bezel has the "L" "off road" instead of the auto-stick option.

If you get the VIN number you can use it to get a build sheet of the options:

The big thing with the FDII package is the lower gearing and enhanced traction control for going over obstacles. It's a good package for off-road but you take a MPG hit.
I didn't get the impression you were needing extra off-road capability.

FDII Off-road
92305


FDI Auto-stick
92306
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I appreciate that info very much, your right I don’t need the extra off road capability. My mother will be using it as a local grocery getter, running errands and occasionally she drives long distances on freeway.
 

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Here are pics of the one I mentioned, I asked the guy if the door handles and rims are plasti dipped and he said he didn’t know as it’s his wife’s car so he asked her and she didn’t know either 🤷🏻‍♂️ I’m personally not a fan of that look. I like the grey or silver wheels more. Also just noticed some stains on the driveway, hope it’s not related to this car
Well I’m back at looking at this one, 68k miles. Clean title. I’m trying to get the vin right now, should I get it even though it has the fdII transmission? He said he’ll go down to 9,400. I’m thinking about buying it tomorrow
 

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As long as the CVT is maintained properly (CVT fluid changed every 50k or so) it is just about as reliable as any other transmission. The FD2 does get worst mpg than the FD1 though, thanks to the extra weight of the steel skid plates under the engine and fuel tank, and the lower gearing. If you're never, or rarely going to go off-road, I'd recommend looking for a FD1. But that's just me, and I have a FD2.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As long as the CVT is maintained properly (CVT fluid changed every 50k or so) it is just about as reliable as any other transmission. The FD2 does get worst mpg than the FD1 though, thanks to the extra weight of the steel skid plates under the engine and fuel tank, and the lower gearing. If you're never, or rarely going to go off-road, I'd recommend looking for a FD1. But that's just me, and I have a FD2.
I am never going to go off reading but it’s hard to find a good clean car right now. Do you think 9,400 is a fair price or good price? How much less mpg? Like 3mpg to the gallon?
 

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My biggest concern would be the maintenance on the CVT. The replacement cost of a CVT was around $3.5k but now people are posting quotes of around $4k and up.

I would check the fluid condition and level; if the fluid is black you know it's probably never been changed.

If the fluid has never been changed and it's been run low, I'd consider either asking for an even lower price or walking away.

I'd also want to take it for a highway drive, get it good and hot, and listen for transmission whining. There's plenty of Youtubes on it.
And I might consider using an app like CVTz50 or Torque to check the trans temp while driving and see how hot it's getting.

MPG-wise the FDII is rated at 20 city 23 highway 21 combined, whereas the FDI 6 speed is 21 city 27 highway 23 combined.
If most of the driving is in town, the difference probably won't be a big deal.

On the highway, I try to stay around 68-70 mph to keep RPM's down and MPG up as much as possible.


92374
 

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I wouldn't be terrified of the tranny at 68,000 miles. I'd just make getting the tranny fluid and filters changed ASAP.

As for the MPG, if you drive it easy even FD2 won't be that bad. For comparison, I had a '74 Cherokee during the second fuel crisis (1977) and driving it easy I got 16MPG and that was with the 360 V-8, three-speed automatic transmission, "quadra-trac" (full-time 4wd) and snow tires all around. Consider that the engine is more than twice the size of our little 4-bangers, and the Cherokee weighed in at 4500 lbs (1500 lbs more than a Patriot) I don't think fuel economy should be a huge problem. Just keep your RPMs down and don't race away from traffic lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’m getting the message “vin not found” for the build sheet. Here is the vin 1C4NJRFB9ED847518 if anyone can help me out
 

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If the MPG's aren't a dealer breaker, and the trans is in good condition, maybe see if they'll let her drive it and see how she does with the CVT and no autostick.
The CVT works a little differently than a conventional transmissionand for some it takes a little getting used to.
 

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If the MPG's aren't a dealer breaker, and the trans is in good condition, maybe see if they'll let her drive it and see how she does with the CVT and no autostick.
The CVT works a little differently than a conventional transmissionand for some it takes a little getting used to.
I decided to hold off on the fd2

This might be a dumb question but I’m looking at the 2012 latitude sport 2.4 4x4, now it shows it has a 6 speed automatic transmission, I’m a bit confused, does this still have a cvt trans? When did they drop the cvt trans? Was it late 2014 models but fd2 still came with them. This is the one I’m looking at and can’t figure out if it’s cvt or not. The build sheet shows “ Continuously Variable Transaxle II”

 

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It has the CVT. The 6 speed AT didn't happen until 2014. All FDII's have the CVT2L, no matter what year.

The auto-stick feature on the CVT2 (simulated 6 "gears") sometimes causes confusion.
 

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I agree with Sandstone. It's got a CVT. If you use autostick you can shift it through 6 positions; actually 7 but you will only see 1 through 6 on the indicator which can be misleading. On the sheet you attached on the bottom of page 4 it says "Continuously Variable Transaxle." There you have it.

Consider too that a CVT isn't necessarily a bad transmission as long as it gets its fluid and filters changed every 50,000 miles. If you know (not been told) that it's been done, or if you're getting it in the 50,000 mile range, even a little over, it's probably OK. Just get the fluid changed ASAP.
 
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