Jeep Patriot Forums banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
507 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,882 Posts
Disclaimer: I hesitate to post Jeep list prices. Some dealers may charge less, many charge more. My dealer likes to charge 15% over list unless I complain.

Engine/Trans Skid Plate......pn 5105236AB....Mopar List Price $160.00



Fuel Tank Skid Plate, left....pn 5105235AA.............................43.35
Fuel Tank Skid Plate, right..pn 5105234AA............................. 43.35



Some of you may want or need these:
5116330AB.."transmission shield" $2.45!!!
5116057AB...."accessory drive shield" $7.35!!!!



The hardest part to this ordeal was finding the fasteners to install in the frame work and channels to enable me to bolt up the Skid Plates. The Hex Rivnuts have been taken care of. I also have listings for a couple that you can get from Jeep and my own supply that I am also selling.

I thought the T-Nuts (also called Tee Nuts and Weld Nuts) would be easy since I found mine at my local ACE Hardware store in my little town of 4000. I bought the last 3 that they had last Saturday and asked them to order a “supply” of them but they haven’t been able to give me any answer on availability yet. I’ve checked at the local Home Depot and Menards in the next big town over and they don’t carry anything in the right size and configuration. Meanwhile I have done some internet shopping and found just the right pieces but they are custom made and would take 3-4 weeks to get them with a price to match. I also found the same thing without the holes drilled for the pop rivets. I’m ordering them on Monday, should have them in about a week and I’ll drill them and make them available.

The M10 T-Nuts are hard to find. If some of you want to look around on your own they also make these with a 3/8-16 tread and you’ll need 4 – 3/8”x1” bolts to go with them.

You will need 4 of the T-Nuts for the ’07 MK’s, they are used in the center hole and three rear holes on the front Skid Plate and are attached with 1/8” pop rivets. The ‘08’s may be able to use these in the 3 round holes in their front mounting locations. I used 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel pop rivets on mine.

FYI: a 1/8" steel rivet/steel mandrel has a shear strength of 450 in/lbs and tensile strength of 350 in/lbs; a 5/32 has 525 and 500. An 1/8" aluminum rivet with steel mandrel has 210 and 325 while the 5/32 has 340 and 490.

You'll also need:
3 - M10 x 1.5 x 50mm Hex bolts, class 9.6 or better (equivalent to an SAE grade 5)
10 - M10 x 1.5 x 25mm (same as above)
13 - heavy flat washers (I am using 3/8")
and some split ring lock washers, shake proof washers or, what I like, the blue label, medium strength threadlocker made by Loctite.

Installation

Get your Jeep up in the air so that you can work on it using ramps, jack stands or, if you’re lucky enough, a hoist. Don’t forget to block the tires to prevent it rolling.

Compass owners only - you’ll need to remove the front close out by using a T20 Torq bit on the 7 screws and 2 small screw drivers on the 4 plugs on the ends. Pry out the center plug by inserting the small screw drivers in the indentations on the sides of the body of the plug and gently wiggling out the center until you can slip a trim stick or pair of needle nose pliers between the body of the plug and the insert and finish prying it out. Remove the rest of the plug.

All MK’s – the bolts that hold the either the rest of the close out or the bolts that hold the plastic belly pan on all take a 10mm socket. Remove as necessary.

Install the T-Nuts – These are pretty easy to install. Insert the T-nut with the barrel up in the holes, center them and drill with a nice sharp 1/8” drill bit. This is pretty tough material and I recommend a new premium grade drill bit. Mark an alignment location and as you drill, insert (but don’t pull) a pop rivet to hold it in place. Drill the second hole and insert a pop rivet there too, and then drill the last hole. Clean off any burrs on the inside of the channels, I used a flat blade screw driver bent to fit in the main hole to clean the burrs. On the center hole I slid the T-Nut up inside, aligned the holes and popped it into place. On the 3 rear holes I attached them from the bottom side.

The 1st shot is just the T-Nuts, the 2nd is installed inside the center channel, the 3rd and 4th are installed on the bottom of the rear cross member. I didn't see the need to try and snake them inside the rear channel.









These are the tools that you’ll need. The shorter the 3/4" wrench, the better.



This is the pieces that make up the Assembly tool



This is it assembled. Where it says “lub” I used some wheel bearing grease but tried some air tool lub and found that almost anything will do. This is considered a “low load bearing” surface.

p2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,882 Posts
Here are all of the fasteners that are usable for this installation.



The ones from Jeep are not stocked by many of the dealers, so you’ll need to order them. They are slightly smaller than the hex holes so be careful when installing them that they don’t fall in your face when you’re trying to hold the assemble tool and the three wrenches that it takes to install them. I did use one of each of the Jeep Rivnuts on mine just to confirm that they will work. So if you want to get yours from Jeep you have the two options shown.

What I will supply and preferred to use when all was said and done are the three items shown on the left. You’ll need 4 T-Nuts (pop rivets included), 7 of the second one (full Hex) and 2 of the third (half hex). The first one on the left is the T-Nut that I have on order, the second is the Rivnut used in the Sheet Metal Hex Holes and the third is in the rear channel for the fuel tank skid plates. The one used in the sheet metal is a very nice .001” interference fit that will hold it in place while you getting your wrenches on it. I was able to tap them in with a 12oz ball peen hammer. The hex holes do very slightly so some of them took a firmer tap than others but still no problems. The rear most hex hole for the gas tank skid plates takes the smaller one. That hole is actually in a piece of steel that about .2” thick and just didn’t want to cooperate. I used the smaller one there and it worked fine.

For those that are thinking that these are a big difference in size, the .37mm difference between the largest and smallest is only .014”. The hex holes generally measured 12.87 and the smallest Rivnut is 12.55, .32mm = .012”, not a problem.


Installing the Hex Rivnuts – This is really easy too, except for one on the Fuel Tank that I’ll get to a little later. Using the tool as described put a reference mark on the pulling nut, assemble it with the Rivnut on the end and tap it into the hole. Hold the ½” jam nut stationary with a ¾” wrench along with the allen head bolt and turn the M10 nut with a 17mm wrench. Watch you refernce mark on the pulling nut (the M10) and turn it 3 ½ turns. After you’ve done the 3 Rivnuts in the front you’ll develop a feel for how tight these need to be and it will make the rears a bit easier.

Here are my 3 in the front. The center one is one of my oversized Rivnuts that I used because I slightly oversized that hole while I was experimenting before I made the Assembly Tool. I have these available too if anybody makes a boo-boo. Use the tool as described and you won’t need any of these.



Note on Compass. If you want to re-inastall your front close out you need to trim it. I just drilled the one corner and used a blade for plastic in my jig saw.

Before:



After:



Re-install the close out now.

With the Rivnuts installed your ready to mount the Engine/Trans Skid Plate.

First, just start the three M10x25 bolts/washers in the rear and one of the M10x50 in the center. Now that the skid plate is holding up on its own with these in loosely, push up very hard on the front of the Skid Plate and put in two of the M10x50 bolts. Now swap the long bolt that you had in the center with a short one and put the long one in the remaining hole up front. The reason that the front is so hard to push up is that you are compressing against the side shields. There is nothing else in the way. If you like, now is a good time to remove each bolt separately, put some Threadlocker on it if you didn’t use lock washers and snug each one of them down. If you want a torque spec, don’t go any more than 20 – 25 lb/ft. You don’t want to over compress the Rivnuts. You’re done on the front.



Installing the rear Rivnuts requires that you remove a close out on each side between the body and gas tank. These are used on the Compass but not on the FD II Patriot and I’m not sure about the other Patriots. I can’t find a listing in the parts books for them but the pictures that I have of the FD II don’t show them. Use a 10mm socket to remove the three nuts on the left side and four nuts on the right side. There is also a section of wiring harness attached to these. Once you drop the close out down you can push out the plastic retainer for the harness.





Once these are removed you can install the outboard Rivnuts just like you did the three in the front.



Next install the ones in the rear that goes into the thicker rear framework and uses the ½ Hex Rivnut.

p3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,882 Posts
The last two that are mounted higher up are the most difficult. As you can see in the picture there is a cable that gets in the way and it’s just a tight spot to get to. You won't be able to get your hammer up in there to drive the Rivnut in the hole, I used a 6" extention for 3/8" drive to tap it in. The extention takes up some of the shock so you'll need a couple of good whacks to seat the Rivnut. I put the long end of the allen wrench in the cap screw and stuck a 10mm deep socket on the short end to help hold it steady. You can only get a short turn on the pulling nut but these are your last two, don’t give up!



When these are all installed you can put some Threadlocker on the rear and upper bolts w/washers and start them in the Rivnuts, hook the Fuel tank skid plates into place and install the outboard bolt/washer and Threadlocker and tighten everything down.

Last step. Use a wire tie to pull that little bit of wiring harness that was attached to the close outs over to the bracket that’s handy. It will require that you trim the close outs if you want to install them correctly. I didn’t see the need since the FD II doesn’t use them.



Final Note: If you change your own oil, you’ll need a socket type Oil Filter Wrench.

Rivnuts and T-Nuts for sale.
p4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
What Size Screws???

New to the forum, and hoping someone can help me out...

I have a 2007 Patriot Sport 4x4 and the plastic panel that's supposed to protect the underside of the engine is hanging down. All of the screws that were holding it in place appear to have worked themselves out. Does anyone know what size screws were holding that thing on? I went to Lowe's last night looking for replacements, but I don't know the thread size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Well done GRAMPS.....well done!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Hey guys im new to the forum and am always trying to improve my patriot. I stumbled upon this thread looking for ways to install skid plates on my FD1. Can someone explain that special ''assembly tool'' thats made out of a bolt and some washers etc above? What it is for? Would the installation be much different on my 2010 patriot?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
507 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The assembly tool...

http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/showthread.php?p=154421#poststop

That Assembly tool is just a collection of hardware to thread into the hex rivnut, and collapse it using its threads. The hexagonal nut is there to prevent turning the whole assembly to reduce torque against the rivnut.

Basically, you thread the bolt into it, having greased the threads and between the washers, and tighten, to permanently install a nice, threaded insert into the stamped hexagonal hole. It does take a lot of pressure to collapse those rivnuts, if I remember correctly.

Then you remove the bolt/washers, and leave behind something more useful than a hex hole: a threaded hole.

Skid plates can be then attached per the instructions: locktite, lock washers, and threaded bolts, into your hex rivnuts and tee nuts you'd just installed.

(The tee nuts get riveted on).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
604 Posts
hate to wake an old thread but can anyone help me find out what i need to install the engine, gas tank, transmission, and accessory skid plates. i am just looking for a list of every part i need but the plates. links are also great.
 

·
2012 POTY
Joined
·
6,154 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
First: If I am just installing the main, engine skid plate, I just need 3 M10 T-Nuts w/1” base (pop rivets included), and three 12.92 mm rivet nuts? The pop rivets are for the front and the t-nuts are for the engine cradle or rear of the skid plate?
Second: The pop rivets are installed by drilling three holes for the rivets…and then what? How are the pop rivets inserted? Do I need a special tool?

As of this moment, I have the plate installed using large bolts and lock washers on the front and the same on the rear…I had to drill the hole all the way through so the bolts could nuts could be placed above and the head of the bolt on the bottom. This is not ideal…it makes taking the plate off and on troublesome and means I can’t put a bolt on the side of the rear where the engine cradle curves (I can’t hold the drill straight with the curving section inside and beyond the existing hole). So, out of the 7 available holes, six of them are in use. Before this task, I’d never heard of rivnuts, rivet nuts, or blind nuts…though I’d seen them and never thought twice about them.
 

·
Use the SEARCH feature
Joined
·
1,462 Posts
On my engine skid, the front 3 are M12x60 rivnuts and the rest are M10x30mm rivnuts.

I bought a cheap rivnut tool off of Amazon to install them (Astro 1427). Makes it a heck of a lot easier.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top